i have 1986 rws 45 with 3x9x32 sportview, no scope stop.
has any one ever straked the back of the scope rail with
a centerpunch, both sides, to make it just a little wider?
any suggestions? creep is not terrible,about .030" per 500
shots. repositioning to normal moves zero only about one
minute, but dont want to wear out rail or threads of mount.
the gun is 177, would really like 22 carbine barrel..

I to am wondering about scope creep. To answer your question about using a punch to raise metal for a tighter fit, I would think that would be a last resort. Instead can anyone weight in on which 1 piece scope mount may work best. I'm looking at the RWS C mount and the Beeman B5040 or B5039?? I'm shooting a model 34 @ .177. Any input would be appreciated.

I have a 34N with a Banner 4-12X40 in BSquare AA adjustable one-piece mount. The mount has a pin, but it didn't line up with any holes, so I didn't use it. In my initial installation, the scope did creep slightly. I used the tiniest drop of a product called MAXI-grip in the dovetails, and it hasn't moved since. MAXI-grip is a mixture of ground glass and proplyene glycol. Its designed to put on screwdriver tips, for added traction. I've also heard a wee bit of toothpaste works as well, due to the very fine abrasives. And it leaves your gun minty fresh as well.

But the best scope mount by far is the BKL 260 one-piece mount. It uses 6 clamping screws. I have one on my R1, without a scope stop or pin, and it has never budged. They are non-adjustable, so not well-suited to Dianas with droop, but I understand they can be ordered direct from BKL with droop compensation.

have a stop pin also that do line up with the hole on the rail. I use the two piece but others have suggested the one piece is better. I've used the two piece on both a 45 and 34 with no movement.

Don

Buy a quality 1/16" or 3/32" drill bit (or two if you have two piece mount).
Securely attach and locktite your base(s) to the scope rail.
Drill a hole throught the centre of the bases(s), approx 1/8" deep into the rail.
With a Dremel or similar tool cut the needed pin(s) off of the shank end(s) of the drill bit(s) and insert into the predrilled hole(s).
Mount your scope and securely screw down the tops with 242 locktite on the screws and mount caps.
My BSF S70, which has a somewhat harsh recoil, does not move the scope.

I've got a 5039 with a BSA 3-12x50 on a B20 with a Maccari kit that hasn't moved since installed. Didn't have to use the pin. Also have a simmons 44mag on a 350 with a 5040, no pin. These mounts are way over built. Did have to do some fine tuning on the 5040 for the 350 barrel droop but it was very minor.

I assume it is holding up well? I am thinking about putting one on my Tomahawk.

Over 8k cphs now. Decent scope for the money but long. Turrets will come loose and had a vibration/twang at the bell housing that mysteriously came and then went away. Thought it was not holding its zero recently but after putting on a scopelevel turns out it was operator error...

Any idea on the real need to have an adjustable scope mount like the 5039 on a model 34. I like the idea of the more rigid 5040 mount but have read posts on misaligned barrels and the need for more adjustment for the scope??

The 34 has a lot of barrel droop. Get the RWS C mount (one or two piece, I use the two piece but one piece is probably easier to secure and adjust) because it has intragal stop pins that will fit your rails.

Don