Folks;

After a great deal of recent experimentation I've come to the conclusion that there are really only two 'do-it-yourself' 'cold-blue' type products currently out there that actually produce results that conform to a typical neophyte's expectations. One is really very good and the other is simply, truly, not kidding, exactly what you're looking for.

It took me a long time and ridiculous expense working on restoring my own Winchester 427 to reach my conclusions. My opinions have changed a bit since my last post.

I get the sense that testimonials and product-bashing are discouraged in this forum, so I hesitate to so. However, in my own case learning about bluing was the most time consuming and expensive part of my project. People seem to be so loathe to discuss specific products here that it took me a few months to even FIND these products.

If anybody is interested, there are in fact now, in my experience, two products out there that really work well. Van's Instant Gun Blue is one, and Blue Wonder is the other.

Van's is really very good, especially for small parts, and would have been my only recommendation for total 'cold' reblues until I recently used Blue Wonder. Two months ago I would have (and did) say that Van's was amazing stuff, and it is compared to most of the products out there. However, Blue Wonder is literally almost unbelievable.

In fact, I would now recommend a 'do-it-yourself' total reblue with Blue Wonder to anybody in any circumstance. It's almost impossible to screw up and the final result looks like a factory finish. This is the stuff I was looking for when I started thinking about bluing in the first place. No mess, easy, really works. and it's not expensive. In fact, before recommending a hot blue I'd recommend trying Blue Wonder. It's that good, cheap, easy, etc.

I blued my 427 with Van's (after trying just about everything else on the market) and got satisfactory results. However, after trying Blue Wonder out on another rifle, I've stripped and reblued the 427 with BW (Black). It now looks like it just came out of a box from the factory. Why didn't you folks tell me in the first place?

I'm posting this because this is where I tried to get information myself, and because sharing experiences can save people a lot of time and money. If I'd known about this stuff at the start (and it's been out for at least a couple of years) I would have saved myself a long and expensive learning process. In fact, I wouldn't have learned anything at all because my first 'cold' blue would have been perfect.

Exaggerated testimonials about cold bluing products are the norm, but this stuff is really truly exactly what it purports to be. It seems pretty evident to me that this is a pivotal bluing technology. I wouldn't be surprised if hot bluing becomes a thing of the past.

BTB, thanks for the post. Every cold bluing project I have ever attempted in has been a dissapointment if not a disaster. Besides the results being sub-par, the "bluing", and I use that term loosly, seemed to fade just looking at it. I have come to believe that cold bluing just does not work. However, "hope springs eternal" and I will give it another try if I can find the products you suggested.

Regards,

Fred

Good testimonial-where do you find blue wonder.

Does anyone have any experience in parkerizing, I would like to find a cold parkerizing solution,(I do not want to bake my rifle in the oven)but would rather get the scoop from someone who has attempted it(if it exist),than test it on my md 48.

If you can find it anywhere still, Plastic cote engine paint. Its a very fine powdercoating. unique to its own. This does not contain ceramic. All other engine paint contains ceramic.not good to work with. The only other alternitive to use is stove black. This powdercoat is course and lumpy. you can still get the finish you want,but it takes alot of finness. do not bake . flame cure only. it just takes a few seconds. try it on a few test pieces first.

My mod 48 was launching Benjamin Sheridan Diablos (22cal,14.3gr.)at an average velocity of 756fps.
The heavier Crow Mags are 600fps.
The point of impact is higher with the heavier pellets!
The rifle is stock with a recent factory repaired breechseal.

My mod 48 was launching Benjamin Sheridan Diablos (22cal,14.3gr.)at an average velocity of 756fps.
The heavier Crow Mags are 600fps.
The point of impact is higher with the heavier pellets!
The rifle is stock with a recent factory repaired breechseal.

My mod 48 was launching Benjamin Sheridan Diablos (22cal,14.3gr.)at an average velocity of 756fps.
The heavier Crow Mags are 600fps.
The point of impact is higher with the heavier pellets!
The rifle is stock with a recent factory repaired breechseal.

test

I cannot seem to post anything except under this blueing subject,the original message bluing is shown and my response box is stuck there.

You can get wonder blue at Canelas.com

Inder

great post,just one question.Who makes Blue Wonder and where do I get it?

I've tried a lot of other products myself and Blue Wonder is the one that gave the best results. Follow instructions, do NOT try to rub it in, just wipe it on in layers until you get a nice even dark color. It darkens up quite a bit after applying the developer.