I need a little help, suggestions from you guys please.

I have a Diana (RWS) 34 that I’ve shot for 6 years, this will be my 7th. I use this gun to kill Starlings and House Sparrows that try to invade my Purple Martin colony. I shoot at a distance of between 30 and 40 yards. Over the past 6 seasons I’ve logged 217 kills.
However, I am completely inconsistent and sporadic with this 34. Sometimes I’m all over the place. I find myself having to sight this gun in more then I think I should, just to make sure it’s all good. I cannot shoot this gun with confidence.

I use a 3-12X44 BSA air rifle scope mounted with the RWS solid one-piece mount. I know the gun has barrel droop and I have the rear elevation adjustment on the mount all the way up and I have the elevation adjustment on the scope all the way up, the gun still shoots low. That’s ok, I’ve been compensating for that, and it’s only 2” low at 40 yards.

I think my problem is the way I hold and steady the gun when shooting. It’s the reverse recoil I think. I have no confidence with this gun, no consistency. Is there a “right” way to steady and hold the gun when shooting it? Is there a tune or an upgrade for this gun to settle it down a little? I really don’t want to spend $300-$500 on a different gun and everything I’ve heard about the 34 is good for what I’m using it for.

I’m not a stranger to fire arms. I’m a die-hard waterfowl hunter and an avid target shooter with rim and center fire rifles and handguns. I compete and recreationally shoot sporting clays, five stand and skeet. But this air gun has me stumped.

Sorry this is so long, I wanted you to have all the info about me to make it easier for you guys to help me.

Any suggestions?

Thanks guys.

I find it hard to hit targets my sheridan .20 im a sharp shooter. Ive yet to get a kill with the 34 but i do shoot long long shots for sport. You might want to check all the bolts use the correct wide tools or you might stip parts. Im impressed with the german quality so far. I just received a couple bsa 3-12x40 scopes and ordered a Leapers one piece mount from scraggle point belive its 25m4 medium. Once i get it mounted i will post results. If this doesnt do the trick for me i might sell and try beeman r9 everyone is raving about.

Take out all the stock screws,clean,degrease and loctite them in, also all the scope mount screws too, this will help, the 34 has a very violent recoil, a macarie gsi spring kit will smooth out that gun, plus a recoil pad. I like the 34 alot but it really is a shaker.

Oh yeah,.... a light hold of the rifle is best with a smooth follow thru, and you may want to try a heavier pellet like a crosman premier in 10.5 gr.177 thay may help with the recoil.

Thanks for the replies. Boing-Whap, you described the 34 recoil perfectly, “very violent”. Good advice about using Loctite on the screws. I should have thought of that. Hahaha. You also mentioned the “macarie gsi spring kit”. Where is the best place to get this kit and is it something I can install myself or do I need to send the gun to have it installed? The recoil pad, can I get this from the same place I’d get the spring kit from? Are the recoil pads model specific to stock sizes?

I’ve been using the RWS Meisterkugeln 8.2 gr and the SuperDome 8.3 gr. I have better consistency (if you want to call it that) with the Meisterkugeln. I’ll stop at Wal-Mart today and pick up some Crossman 10.5’s and give them a try. I’m sure with the heaver weight pellet, the pellet drop will be even more.

I’ve tried holding the gun tight against my shoulder as you would a center fire rifle and I’ve tried a very light hold. Maybe with the spring kit, recoil pad and secured screws, my friendship with this 34 will grow and we’ll become a formidable team.

Squirrel, good luck with your gun.

Thanks again for the help.

Use the blue locktite,the red needs heat to break loose.The 10.5 gr.pellets are going to be hard on the spring per JM. (the spring man).I was using Crosman 10.5 pellets in my mod.48 had to replace the spring twice in about 3500 shots.I use Rws 8.3 gr.domes and JSB Exacts in my 34's with good results.Hope this helps,Gary

.............some good advise about the loctite. The 34 will shoot loose in a couple hunderd rounds without it, and will then shoot all over the place.

I'd also try shooting the gun with the iron sights. If you suddenly become consistent, there's your answer. Either the scope is shot or the barrel pivot is not tight enough. The barrel pivot should be just tight enough to hold the barrel with out dropping in any position once the gun has been cocked. If a scope reticle has shot loose you can sometimes see it by turning the gun upside down and tapping the stock with the heel of your hand, then shouldering the gun and looking through the scope. You may be surprised what you see.

You also need to find an adjustable mount that allows you to mechanically zero the gun with the elevation knob set to neutral. Shooting the gun with the reticle turned to it's gimbal limit leads to less consistency.

If you have not yet done this, you'll also need to shoot the gun using different pellets. Each gun likes it's own pellet. Good pellets to try are Beeman FTS, JSB express , JSB Exact, Crossman Premier Lites ( the heavies are too heavy), Diana Domes, Webley Lazapells( If you can find them )

If you trigger is heavy you'll also need to be very aware of how you apply pressure to break the shot and do it the same way every time. A light hold is necessary, but the trigger release is very important also.

I can usually shoot 1 1/2" groups at 35 yards on a good day( standing offhand ), and I'm not that great a shot. ONce you put the gun on a rest, you have to be VERY consistent ( IN my experience )

You can purchase a Diana 34 GRT Kit from Jim Maccari

www.airrifleheadquarters.com

Look under the Tune Kits tab. He also has specific instructions on his website regarding installations using his old GSI Kit. A lot of that information still applies. It's not difficult to install a kit, assuming you have some basic tools and common sense.

HTH

Knobs

 Rob,

 These replies are all very good ones, and I thank the Group!

 I too have just underwent a similar experiences with my Model-40! A Model 34 relative, a .177 Magnum, and it has all the same firing mannersims and woes. I even have a GSI Mainspring in the rifle and frankilly it is not a magic "cure", but rather a very nice improvement in the overall mannerisms of the rifle, (ie: easier cocking, smoother and quicker firing cycle, and since itis better wire, and it will extend the life of the Mainspring indefinatelly). The velocity is nearlly as fast as the stock spring but with less vibration and more comfort. First, check for the mechanical defects or problems mentioned! If all is well, it's the shooter...

 Believe me, I know! THIS shooter, has the same troubles as you concentrating and is still (probally always will be!) working on my consistancy. You are NOT alone!

 Yes, this family (Models 34-40) of Diana's are kickers. Their slender woodwork tends to need more attention to "Hold" than the Model 24 Family. I might add that sitting the rifle on the palm of an open forward hand 4" to 6" ahead of the trigger sometimes helps.

 The hardest point for me to concentrate on is the trigger overtravel. As mentioned above, if you concentrate on holding the post- sear release sight picture, you will vastll imorove your shooting. the miniscule movement side to side of your trigger pull during overtravel, be it on an airgun or .45ACP DOES affect that shot!Keeping the crosshairs or sight steadu for that millisecond causes you to relax just enough to add some consistancy!!!

 One "trick" I use when praticing is to take along a rifle that you KNOW that you shoot well. In my case it is either my scoped Daisy Model 953, HW-55, or (don't laugh) My .177 KL-3B Fast Deer. As a double check and relaxation excersize, I will swap guns and shoot a few groups, just to "heal" my Ego! Switching back, I then know I can shoot a decent group and am more relaxed and ready to continue on praticing control of th powerfull Model-40 Magnum. Believe me, there's nothing wrong with using any "Head Trick" you can use to relax will make you calm down and improve your groups!

 Don't give up! There's no shame in wanting and getting a fine rifle like a R-9, but without first mastering your own control of these Magnums, it really will not cure the situation.

 HTH,

 ZVP

Awesome replies, thank you all.

I’m going to act on the suggestions all of you gave me. I think they’re great.
I’m going to go over the gun completely, retighten all screws with loctite, install a scope mount with more adjustability so not to rely on the scopes reticle for complete elevation adjustments and I’m also going to install the 34 GTR kit from Maccari. All of that will be an added overall improvement in the general mechanical integrity of the gun. I’ll fire an assortment of different pellets then I already use and see if there is an improvement with any particular one.

I checked the scope and it seems fine, nothing loose also the guns barrel pivot is solid and tight, not sloppy. I might also take the suggestion of shooting this gun using the iron sights and see what happens. Once I know that the gun is “as it should be”, and I have the confidence in it, I’ll be able to work on my concentration, consistency and follow thru and trigger pull. I already know I’m 95% of my own problem shooting this gun.

I want to thank you guys again for jumping in and taking the time to help me out.
If you’re interested, I’ll let you know how I progress with this.

I have a Diana 36 (same as the 34 except the stock has a recoil pad and checkering). I bought it used in excellent shape. It was my first adult airgun and had I known what a bruiser it is, I would have gone with a much slower airgun to begin with. That said I had a lot to learn with this bad puppy.

The first and most helpful thing is the Blue Loctite, the screws do come loose about every 100 shots. I would also recommend a MAC1 screw cup kit. The star washed under the forward stock screws will eat through the stock if you are not careful.

The second thing I found helpful was, as stated above, not gripping the forestock but laying it on my openhand about 4"-5" infront of the trigger. Which on my 36 puts the 'Diana' logo stamped on the top of the tube in the center of my palm. This is also the balance point of the 36.

Next was trigger use, I lightened my trigger with the adjustment screws so that there is about 1/2" of take up in the first stage, then a light squeeze to launch lead. I also hold the trigger depressed for a '3' count to remind myself to stay on target and not 'jerk' the trigger.

Once I had consistant, though huge, groups I ordered a pellet sampler from straight shooters. You get 25 each of 36 different pellets, I shot groups of (5) at 10 yds indoors to find what grouped well.

For the 36: accupells .104 c-t-c, Logun Penetrators .145 c-t-c, Kodiaks .198 c-t-c, RWS super domes and Super Points .221 c-t-c.
Then I went out side and shot the top (5) at 30yds and found the same results held..Accupells were the clear winner with my best group at 30 yds being 3/8". That was in no way a typical group, it was just the best. My average with them is more like 3/4".

For me the keys to get consistant groups were:
Loctite.
Consistant light hold.
Follow through (staying on target after squeezing the trigger).
Pellets the 36 likes.

I have about 2500 round through it now and it has smoothed out conciderably, the recoil is linear, and it is so quiet that if my cheek is not making contact with the stock, the target impact is all I hear.

HTH

Brock

First of all, use a spring compressor. There's a fair amount of preload on a stock 34 spring.

Also, make yourself a slave pin for the rear hole. It should be long enough to go through the trigger carrier but short enough to go into the main tube. That way, you can get the safety spring and trigger mechanism aligned before inserting the trigger group. I made mine out of a roll pin. They're soft and easy to grind to length, and the diameter can be "adjusted" slightly by spreading or squeezing the split.

Maccari's kit, which includes a spring and a guide fitted for that individual spring, will eliminate almost all of the vibration and spring twang. There will still be considerable recoil, but it won't feel as violent, since the accompanying buzz will be gone. You might consider putting one of his Apex seals in while you have the gun apart.

34s are great guns, and capable of outstanding accuracy. Due to their relatively high power and relatively low weight (for a spring rifle) they can be tougher than some other guns to learn to shoot well. But once you've mastered a 34, you can pretty much pick up anybody else's spring rifle and not embarrass yourself.

Open the pod bay doors, Hal.

Scroll down to: "Squeeze the most amount of accuracy from this rifle by using the "artillery" hold.

http://www.airgunwriter.com/rws-350.html

the responses, info and the great artical. They're all awesome and very heplful.

I especially agree with the advice to try different pellets. Straight Shooters has an excellent sample pack. You may also want to try some JSB Predator pellets if you can get a sample from someone. They're expensive at almost $12 per tin of 200. My .177's average 8.2 grains and are very accurate in my Beeman R9, although every gun is different and that in no way guarantees they'll work for you. They're extremely deadly on pests.

You can check your scope by zeroing it at 20 to 25 yds, no closer though or you'll have to adjust a bunch of clicks before you see much movement in your impact point, then adjusting the elevation up maybe 10 to 15 clicks, then shooting another group, then adjust windage the same amount and shoot another group. Keep doing this until you've made a square. You should end up pretty much back where you started, although each click will vary a little so don't expect it to be dead on where you started. If the adjustments don't seem to move the impact roughly the same amount each time, or the groups vary greatly in size, your scope is probably toast. I've had an RWS 48 destroy a supposedly heavy recoil rated scope. One adjustment didn't move impact point at all and the next moved it nearly 3 times as far as it should have, and groups opened up from less than a half inch to what resembled a shotgun pattern. I have a mental block when it comes to paying big $ for a scope, I had a hard time spending $150 on the scope I bought, but this experience cured me of that.

This would cause barrel droop now im 3 inches low at 30 yards with the turrets all the way up. Check those bolts near trigger im shooting better and my gun has 40 shots through it.