Hi folks. New 54 with about 400 shots through it so far, just mounted a Bushnell Elite 3200 5X15 with Beeman adj. mount. I was bench shooting today when I noticed on cocking that the action would first move "back" about 1/4", then of course would go forward while fully cocking. I'm sure it wasn't doing this up until now, seems to be rebounding forward after hitting the backstop (or from the momentum of the piston hitting the breech). It locks up fine in the forward position, requiring "some" pressure to move it back (won't move unless pulled back). It doesn't lock at all in the rear position, you can easily slide it forward with no "detent" feel to it. Is something wrong with my 54....sure hope not.

Respectfully,
Tony.

My 54 in .177 does the same with close to 1000 rounds thru it, and shoots spot on.

I did however apply some heavy grease (fishing real lub) to the mechanisem, which reduces somewhat the rail side play.

If you dicide to do the same, remember to resight it in again...

brgds
jack

Thanks Jack. I haven't touched anything yet and was getting worried what I might find. It is shooting real nice. Groups range from .400" smallest, to 2" largest, but I think alot has to do with the trigger. It's the only thing I really don't like on the 54. I have the T05 and it's way too strong a pull. Haven't seen anything on the net about how to tune or adjust them.

Those groups were shot at a measured 50 yards (rifle range).

is easy to adjust, turning the screw CCW will lengthen the first stage and lighten the second, turning the screw CW will do the opposite.

Mulby

sounds awesome to me. The bigger groups may be from trigger flaws, but you can't complain about half an inch!

I second them shots, thats very good shooting.
my best is 1/2 to 3/4 groups at 25mts, I still have a cheap BSA scope that came with it.

the trigger is a bit low-tech and made of plastic, the best thing is to adjust the first stage as suggested; and in conjuction, check that the safty is working properly. I have read somewhere that over-travel of the triger adjustment can cause the safy to fail!!!

brgds
jack

Actually, the groups that day started at about 2", then progressed down to about 1/2" (minus the one .400" group), but then went back to 2". I don't know if it was fatigue, the trigger, or the bore may have needed cleaning. I shot a total of about 120 JSB Exacts starting from a clean bore. Most of the early shooting was in adjusting the mount and scope. I started with my thumb behind the grip, but noticed that no matter where I put it, I could see the crosshairs pulling off target while pulling the trigger. Then I tried putting my thumb behind the trigger guard and "squeezing" my forefinger and thumb together. The groups closed instantly. If the trigger had a lighter pull, I wouldn't have to resort to that, as I feel it's a bit inconsistant.

One thing is that Bushnell 3200 Elite is one bright scope, just real nice. Didn't even need my spotting scope all day with that. I'm mostly an iron and/or peep sight guy with my powder burners, this can really spoil you.

Here's a pic of the .400" 3 shot group into a musket cap lid I taped to my target board. I also taped a .44 Mag shell to the bullseye, hit it with first shot, and sent it through the tattered fiberboard. I retrieved it in the sand bank about 8 yards behind the target.

You're right, backing out the screw makes the first stage longer and lightens the second. Boy, took me by surprise on my first shot after backing it out (there was no second stage, haha). Turned it back in enough to actaully have both stages, but still have a lighter pull than I had before. I would prefer it a bit lighter than that, but for some reason when I get it just the way I like, the trigger would "sometimes" release before feeling the second stage. This would happen every few shots or so, very un-nerving. I don't have a trigger scale (gave it away years ago), but I can tell you that the way I like it is not "too" light. I like knowing exactly when a trigger is going to release, but light enough that I don't "pull" shots trying to release it. I assume the T05 in stock configuration isn't capable of the precision I was expecting, but then maybe it just needs to break in more. That trigger wobbling around sure can't help anything, either.

My groups at 50 yds today were pretty poor. A couple in the 1/2 - 3/4" range, but the majority were around 2 - 2 1/2". It may have been me though, as I was trying different holds and trigger adjustments, so may have killed my concentration. I'll try again this weekend, and the good news is now I've got about 500 rounds in it closer to break in. The cocking is noticeably smoother.

I have a .22 Diana 24 with the T05 design and it has many thousands of rounds through it and everything about the rifle including the trigger is like butter. I also have a .177 version of the 24, and it is coming along well after a few tins of pellets. The trigger is easy to shim to get rid of the side to side play and make it feel more solid. Have fun,

Mulby

Hey Tony,

I have a 54 that I have shot 8000 rounds through it and I had experienced the same thing at around 4000 shots. It is not a big deal but you do need to make an adjustment. If when cocking the rifle the action slides back this is an indication your tension on the rail set screw is too little. Remove the rifle action from the stock and on the aft rail you will see a set screw in the hole that the aft action screw was installed in before you removed it. The tension on this set screw can affect the shooting characteristics of this particular gun and if it is too lose you won't get consisten grouping. Tighen the set screw (a little at a time)with the action in the most aft position.Then take the rifle action put it in the stock, hold it horizontal and tip the rifle slowly and at about 40 degrees with the barrel pointing down the action should slide to the forward position. Then, I like to take the gun ( with the action all the way back and in the stock) and just give the gun a little throw forward and the action should reset itself to the forward position. Next stand the rifle straight up and down on the but of the stock, the action should not fall down, at all, with about 18-24 pound of force or weight pressing on the barrel it should the reset to the aft position. Or a good sharp rearward tug of the action should also slide it back. This has proven to be a good setting for the rail tension but some guns may vary. Loctite the set screw and all other screws or they will come lose in about 150-250 shots and your accuracy will dive.

Good luck
LT

I tried testing it the way you said, but everything checked out alright. I did tighten it up some anyway, just to try it. Needs a sharper pull to get it to unlock, but not too much. Did seem to improve some, so I left it that way. I didn't have to remove the stock to make the adjustment, just the rear stock screw.

At the end of the day I tried something different at the range today. Instead of my other "holds" that I've tried with the 54, I actually pulled it fairly tight into my shoulder, while still making sure that I was pulling the trigger straight back. To my surprise the groups tightened up and kept the fliers at bay. That was the last thing I expected! Unfortunately I ran out of time, so now I have to have this running around my head all week. To make matters worse, I may be going away this weekend, so not sure if I'll be able to go,...dang. Might have to play sick a day between

I ordered a level and a few different pellets that are due in this week. So looking forward to testing them out.

TonyLI

Just because the action is not at the end of rear travel does not mean it has bounced off the back-stop.

More likely is that it only traveled part of the way to back.