Ok, let me explain. I've been trying many different pellets in my .22 Diana 54 for a few weeks now, got over a 1000 rounds through it so far. Cocking is getting real smooth now, as is the trigger. Been shooting around 120 rounds per outing and have cleaned the bore after each outing using a pull-through (home made with trimmer line). Wet/dry patches using Beeman MP5. Patches always come out with plenty of lead chips and/or flakes, some tiny...some a bit large. All pellets were seated with my thumb, some pellets can only go flush, while others a tad deeper.

Ok...to the nitty gritty. I found what I believe is a hold that the 54 really likes after trying many. The gun will group fantastic at 50 yards (1/2" or less) sometimes, then open up to 2", then back all in the same session. I'm being extremely consistant with my hold, trigger let-off, etc. I have many years experience with regular firearms, reloading, casting, etc...but new to springers. I can usually "call" a shot at let off, knowing if I pulled the shot or otherwise, and most of these bad groups felt perfect to me at let-off. This time when I got home I cleaned the bore as usual, but then decided to give it a better inspection, also wanting to check the crown. I put a bore light at the breech and looked down the muzzle with a 3X eye loupe (I'm a watchmaker). To my surprise, the choked part of the bore (from muzzle down to about 2") was leaded pretty bad. I'm talking flakes/chips embedded on the lands, not smears. More pull throughs and it's not budging. On a normal firearm it's no biggie, as a few swipes with a nylon or bronze brush would take it right out. The problem is everything I've read says to NEVER use a brush with these. How do I clean it out? Also, I was surprised at the quality of the rifling. A lot more tool marks than I was expecting to see, most of my firearms are much smoother.

Thanks,
TonyLI.

Have you tried firing some cleaning pellets? You might try feeding about three at a time into the breach--As you may know, one cleaning pellet would not provide enough pressure and could be considered a dry fire. What i do with my Mod 34 is soak the first pellet in bore cleaning solution and then load two (or more) dry ones behind it. fire into a trap where you can recover the pellets to see how effective they were. I use a heavy carboard box at 10 feet or so. HTH safe shooting

-Paulie

When switching pellet brands some leading occurs, but it is easily removed using a Bore Snake. I have one in each caliber, .22 and .177, which I bought off eBay for $12 each. Very handy, especially after a mainspring changeover, when a lot of lube exits the transfer port and the bore gets really oily/greasy. A passage with the Bore Snake gets the fore dry in a jiffy.

Just keep in mind that a .22 rimfire bore is 0.222-0.223 across the grooves while an airgun bore is actually 0.217-0.218. I would not use a any type of bore brush not specificaly designed for airguns, and I would only use synthetic bristles. just my 0.2 cents =)

The copper wire brushes of the Bore Snake are easy to remove and simply use the cord and rope only.

I use the Bore Snake built-brushes in all my air rifles (Gamo EXPO 2100, Diana Models 25, 25D, 27, 35, 60, Walther LG55T, Feinwerkbau 124 and 127) and Walther LP53 pistol, without a problem for years now. Steel is many times harder than copper wire brushes found in Bore Snakes; even air rifle/gun bores can take the "brush".

i also use cleaning pellets . 1 oiled and 2 dry , for each shot .
if you use this method , make sure the dry ones are loaded last! otherwise , any oil will get detonated by the air compression coming from the chamber . the dry ones effectively "mop" up after the oiled one .

if leading is very heavy , then i would recommend a pull-through wire w/patches . there are a few kinds on the market to choose from . make sure you get one that has an overcoated or protected wire that won't scratch .
run some oiled patches through the barrel first , then run some dry ones through . repeat with oiled patches , then dry ones . until it all comes out clear .

My favorite all-round gun care product is the classic German stuff, Ballistol. Great on the outside of the gun--looks great, last eons, and doesn't react with leather, plastic, or rubber.

It is also a superb bore cleaner. A lot of blackpowder shooters use it, and it absolutely instantly obliterate lead fouling in an airgun's bore. Run a couple patches through soaked in it, and the bore is both clean as a whistle and nicely lubricated.

Check it out at www.ballistol.com

I ended up pulling a nylon brush through it a couple times in a wet bore, took it right out. I put tape on the ends to protect the bore, and only pulled it from breech to muzzle. Wasn't overly tight 'cause it was a used (but clean) brush. I'm not too crazy about using Ballistol, as it's slightly Alkali, and I just don't know enough about these to want to risk anything. On my antique firearms I use kerosene or Hoppes 9 (except the black powder ones, those I used machinists oil/water mix). I was thinking about trying a bore-snake, keep forgetting to pick one up. Never tried cleaning pellets, as I've heard pros and cons on their use in magnums, so stayed away.