Hi,
I just found this forum, so I apologize for asking a question that's probably been addressed a hundred times before. I bought my 54 at the Roanoke show last month and really love it. I've had the gun apart a few times, removing some sharp edges and just studying it. The trigger pull is a little too stiff for my taste (sorry, I don't have a pull gage), but with the single adjustment screw of the T05, I don't really know what to do. Any suggestions or links to previous posts that might be helpful? I am comfortable with doing the work, but I'd like to be "informed" before starting anything.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Stephen
Hi Stephen, I just recently put a T05 trigger in my gun and at this point from what I know is that the single adjustment screw will adjust the amount of first stage travel is all. I left the trigger I received adjusted as is and I have very little first stage travel in mine. I don't know of much you can do with the trigger, there is a guy who works on Diana guns that I think he has mentioned he has installed a second screw in these newer triggers but I am not shure where I read this. If I remember right the two hook pieces in the T05 maybe the same or similar to the T01 so it makes sense that a second screw might be able to be installed in the trigger blade. If I can remember where I seen the post I will let you know.
Interesting post. I thought the bipod really interesting and will be buying one of these for my 460. I already use a stix and like it very much.
Thanks
Randy,
Thanks for the response. I am curious as to why you replaced the trigger in your gun. What gun, and what was the old trigger?
I did some digging last night and came up with these schematics on the Pyramyd site:
54 with T01 trigger http://www.pyramydair.com/schematics/rwsmodel54_content.asp
There is similarity in the lower levers in both designs, but the T01 uses 3 balls to grip the piston rod, and the T05 uses 2 sliding plates to hold it.
I also found out that the single adjustment screw on the T05 controls when the second stage starts (or the length of the first stage, depending on how you look at it.)
Tuning the screw in CW engages the 2nd stage sooner, and also seems to make the pull weight heavier. Turning the screw out (CCW) makes the 2nd stage come in later and for me, seems to give a little more precise feel. You may want to try turning your adjustment screw out. You will be able to feel the difference with the gun NOT cocked, and the safety pushed in.
Lloyd
clockwise - shorter first stage
Counter clockwise - longer first stage.
I like a shorter 1st stage, or medium. Not too short, not too long. I think I turned the screw slightly Clockwise when I adjusted it (like 45deg or 1/8 turn). Shot a few pellets, then went back CCW to original position and didn't like it as much. So I went back to the new adjustement. I don't like too much travel in the trigger before the firing point. I thought the 1st stage was a little too long from the factory.
It's all personal preference. You 'll have to play with it to see what feels good to you or if you made an improvement.
Hi Stephen, I had to change out to a T05 as I had bought my RWS 52 used and it broke the piston soon after I got the gun, thus I did a complete rebuild on the gun. The gun originally had a T01 the problem was that Umarex did not have a piston for the T01 trigger, they told me I could use the newer piston with my older trigger but there is a distinct difference in the ends of the piston rods so I opted to go ahead for a new trigger as well, so basically I have a gun with all new parts inside and is doing well now. The new piston had a slightly longer piston rod and the end is slightly different could only show the difference if I were to take pictures of the ends of the rods. The original piston had the rod break, the rod was welded to the face of the piston and then is put into the cylinder part of the piston and swaged 3 flat spots around the piston which I called swaged but you could say crimped maybe also, this keeps the piston together, the new piston is built the same way. I have worked on the older T01 triggers and with them it was possible to adjust them to where there was no trigger creep and a decent pull weight on the trigger, I have not expirimented with the new trigger on my gun, would make sense to back the screw out some to get more first stage travel and maybe lessen the pull, am going to try that soon here just to see what is possible with it, to me when I put the new one in it felt okay to me I do alot of shooting off hand and I like less first stage travel or none at all, but it would be your own preferance. You are correct about the triggers, the T01 had 3 ball bearings that locked the piston, to me is much like a airhose coupler, the new one has sliding plates, the older trigger had a safety which had a flat spring attached that when you pushed the safety forward it snapped over the first receiver pin and stayed in place, the newer trigger has a plastic safety which snaps over the first receiver pin. Alot of people I think that had the T01 trigger liked it better perhaps and I think I may have been more partial to it as well. This is the website to the person whom I mentioned works on RWS guns,I beleive he is very knowlegeable and is the one I told you has installed the second screw on the new triggers here is the link http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ekreally/myhomepage/business.html You might check with him about doing this modification to the trigger, if you do decide to try it let us all know how well this works, I can't be shure that he will give you the information for free about working on the trigger since he is in buisness but you might give him a try.
Randy,
Yes, I think I will have to work with T05 trigger awhile and do my best to find an adjustment I like. Thanks for the lead on the tuner. I have also heard the name Ken Reeves in Ohio mentioned as being one of the best Diana tuners around. Have you heard his name?
Stephen
I have never heard of Ken, but probably any of the guys who work on Diana guns alot know of modifications for the T05, is worth a try to just ask these guys as alot of times they will just tell you some tips and tricks, if you are considering modifiying the trigger with the extra screw I am shure they may just tell you about doing it, I know the link I gave you that he claims to tell how to tune a Diana trigger for a set price by phone, but never hurts to ask these guys. You could try buying a extra triggerblade and then if the modification does not go well could always just put back the one that is not, my guess is that might be about all that can be done to make the trigger more adjustable, as far as inside of it the mating surfaces I have never heard anyone mention about this aspect, the mating surfaces are fairly small, another thing is maybe some different lubricants to the inside pieces, I left mine as it looks like the factory puts some lube in the trigger assembley to start with, but there maybe some different ones you could use there also. You may just keep checking around and stuff also, I understand wanting to get the trigger to the best level it can be.
I've now had the T05 trigger apart and back together again a couple of times without incident. It seems like a rather delicate mechanism to retain a 200 pound spring and I'm still not clear on how it works throughout the cocking and firing cycle. The engagement and disengagement of the 2 sliding plates has me stumped, so I think I will leave well enough alone for the moment. As you suggested, I'll ask around and listen, see about different lubes, experiment with the adjustment screw. Nothing drastic, or most important, nothing that I can't undo. LOL
Stephen
I recently lube tuned both a 350 and a 460, and while the 460 trigger unit was in my hands ( assembled ) I put a drop of teflon oil in the mechanism and a little moly around the opening where the piston rod goes through so it might drag a little into the mechanism. It took the creep out, but it's still relatively heavy, it aint going to rival a Rekord any time soon, but acceptable . I also find that a middle of the road approach on that single 1st stage adjust screw seems to be the best to help eliminate creep.
Hi Stephen, I had finally got around to trying the adjustment screw on my new T05 trigger and it does not take much to change the trigger, I backed the screw out like 2 turns and could not beleive it, I felt no first stage so I ran it back in untill I got the results I wanted. I don't know I am glad I tried the adjustment on it as I have it a little more to my liking over how it was sent to me. I think Dan has it best there, if I were to take the trigger apart I would probably use a bit of moly or silicon grease in areas of the mechanism, I think it looked like some sort of silicon type grease from the factory in it already. Maybe use a bit of moly on the pins and stuff like that might help also. The HW rekord trigger is a fine unit, I have one adjusted to where it fires on the second stage with no movement detected, however the T05 is not bad on these guns, I think for hunting the Diana trigger is suitable where as for target work the HW trigger does have the advantage.
