I went ahead and bought a normal accushot one piece mount...what is the likelihood that I will need droop compensated mount?

Can I just shim the mount I have or bend the barrel somehow to make it work? How would I go about doing either of these?

I would say you will need barrel compensation as all of the Diana break barrel guns from what I have heard have some barrel droop, even my model 52 being a fixed barrel model has some. You could put a shim in the rear scope ring but I have found it does not help a whole lot but if your scope will not come in a shim sometimes will work if you run out of adustment. I have heard of correcting barrel droop but have never tried it, someone here on the forum might tell you about doing that if they have done it before. A model 40 is a neat gun and am shure you will like it.

Exact setup as yours, I am experimenting with this mount on a 40 model. All I can say is that they told me to put the vert. stop pin in the front of the rail and not on the back. Will try this way and see what happens. This does not correct barrel droop (BD) but will eliminate breakage due to shear.

Elevation is going to be the problem if there is any degree of BD. I am using a Model 450 RWS scope. Have not finished with all yet, waiting for mount from Pyramid. Slow mail.

and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

Warren

I have a Model 54 in .22 with a 450 scope and the 1 piece mount. I have the model 52 in .22, set up the same. I have 2 model 34 Panthers in .22 with the rws 2 piece mounts and their compact scopes. All 4 of the guns had the scopes mounted as per RWS's instructions. The rear end of the rings have to be set at 1-1/2 turns out which puts the back end higher than the front. The front is turned out only 1/2 turn. This additional turn on the rear seems to compensate for any barrel droop. I have not used any blue locktight or special scope stop to prevent my scopes from moving or the rings from getting loose. When I started out in airgunning about 2 years ago, I went with all RWS. This has been a great way to go, for me. No problems. Only have had 1 scope go bad, that on the panther. Glenn at UMAREXUSA took care of that with a newer model. Thanks Glenn.

Mounting a RWS scope can be done easily if you follow these directions.

http://www.umarexusa.com/MountingScopewCMount.aspx

The 1 pc. mount you have is it the RWS new C mount or the 1 pc. 4 screw Accushot. I have read that the RWS C mount is not that good.

and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

Warren

http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/accessory.pl?accessory_id=805

that's the mount I have

This is my RWS 36 with accushot mount on it.





I did not need droop on this gun. The scope when mounted with accushot mounts and optically centered shot only 1.2" low at 10 yards and 0.126" right. That is not enough to really need adj mounts or custom droopers. However all my previoius and current Diana's with this exception all needed 30 minutes droop at least!

Optically center and see where you are at with that mount you have then we can see what you need. One more point, the stop pin on that mount will adjust however much you want but if you don't have a deep stop hole don't do it in the shallow one. It will drift back with soo little meat behind it. Drop the pin over the front of the rail ie backwards. Here is a way to optically center:

Optically center - instructions:
The starting position for doing both adjustments (elevation and windage) are with THAT knob/turret pointing straigh up.
Start with the elevation knob first (straight up).

Choose an easy-to-see object in the distance that the horizontal line is lying upon. That's your 'target object'. Set your parallax adjustment ring to that approximate distance.

Rotate the turret to the 6 o'clock position, noting if the horizontal line is higher or lower than it was at 12 o'clock.

Rotate the turret back to starting position, noting where the horizontal line is in relationship to the 6 o'clock position.

Now, If you want the crosshiar to go 'up' from where it is now, turn the knob in the opposite direction, towards 'down'. You'll see that the line moves that way. Turn the knob enough to try and 'split' the difference between the 6 and 12 O'clock positions of the line. (Conversely, if you want the line to move 'down' from where it is now, turn the knob in the 'up' direction).

Repeat as necessary until THAT line is centered. (Ignore the other, vertical line, we'll get there).

Now, face the windage knob straight up.

Repeat the above steps, ignoring the 'left' and 'right' arrows and words.
Start the comparison procedure as before, 6 o'clock, then 12 o'clock again.
If you want the crosshair to go 'up' in the 12 o'clock position, turn the knob in the same 'down' direction as before, as if it was also an elevation knob.
Continue as before until that crosshair is centered.
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Final check: Rotate the scope in the vee blocks, watching the intersection of the crosshairs on a 'target object'. The intersection or center point should be stationary.

If it's moving more than you want, start from the beginning for a few final tweaks. Check again. You'll soon be done.