So I'd like to adjust the second stage's weight a tiny bit. The manual that came for my rws 40 didn't include that particular model in the descriptions. It only mentioned one adjustment screw but it seems I have two (which if i read correctly is a trademark of the earlier models?). Anyhow, I saw a diagram of the 2 screw trigger but I haven't quite figured out how to get what I need...
But it isn't so I think what you have to do is loosen the front screw in order to adjut the rear screw. That's all you can do as it is from the factory.
Hi Jon, you have the T01 trigger, the 40 I think was made back when they used this trigger rather. The front screw is the one closes to the end of the barrel and the rear screw is the one closest to the end of the stock. If you turn the front screw it was intended to adjust the sear engagement, now the thing is I worked on the T01 I used to have and the two screws somewhat work hand in hand. If the trigger when you pull up the first stage to the actual trigger I call it fires with no creep leave the front screw be, just run the second screw out that is closest to the butt end of the gun, go small amounts at a time untill you get the trigger lighter, if you then feel any creep on the second stage then adjust the front screw some.
Yes the screw closest to the butt end of the gun will adjust the weight of pull and the screw closest to the front or towards the barrel is sear engagment. I would try the screw for weight of pull first get that to where you want it, if the trigger has too much creep when you pull on it to fire then run the front screw in if I remember right I have one of those triggers around here but would have to check for shure, you can tell with that front screw don't go too much on it, see these triggers have 2 pieces basically that are called the upper and lower hook in the parts schematic. So to understand what is happening is this, we will call the front screw that is closest to the muzzle screw#1 and the other one screw#2, when you turn screw#2 clockwise so that the length of the screw is going in the trigger blade you will start to notice the first stage travel will lesson and the trigger weight of pull will feel heavier. What is happening is that the lower hook rests on these two screws when the gun is cocked when the trigger blade is pulled back the trigger adjustment screws push on the lower hook causing the upper hook to release thus firing the gun. When the screw is run out or counterclockwise the screw becomes shorter inside of the triggerblade, thus the first stage travel lengthens and the trigger feels lighter. I hope this helps you some as it is a interesting concept on adjusting this trigger but you can get it to where it is pretty good with a decent weight of pull and no overtravel on the second stage, just make shure you are careful I have not seen one of these triggers get to where it won't hook from adjusting them but you can never tell, cock the gun be careful and hold the barrel with one hand open when you are doing your adjustments, if the gun gets where it won't cock run Screw#1 out some counterclockwise and screw#2 just to make shure it will cock again and then go from there. Always remember safety first when working on the trigger do your adjustments before you cock the gun each time and test it.
I have the 34 made 07/06 and the 40 made 08/07 both in .22 cal, no modifications on any of them.
The 40 has a 3-12 x 40 Barska scope with Bushnell 2 pc. ring mount. The 34 1 pc. Accushot with Bushnell 3-9 X 32. The 40 has very little barrel droop, the 34 has more, that is why a 2 pc will work with the 40 but not with the 34.
I get better shot groups at 30 yrds. consistently with the 40 than the 34 and both are the same gun with differences, the 40 has the muzzelbrake and a different trigger (two scews in front of the trigger) The 34 say's on top Diana, Mod. 34 and then T 05, The 40 is only stamped Diana Mod. 40.
Somewere in the yellow forum I read that Diana had revamped their specs and machinery for tighter tolerances in their production plant, maybe and maybe not. But there are subtle differences between these two sister's I own.
My 40 is stamped with the Scarlet letter "R" (refurbished ?), the 34 is not and both were bought from UMAREX as Demos. After 100 shot's on the 40 it is time to tighten all screws, not with the 34.
Just my 2 cents
and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter.
I am assuming you have the older TO1 with 2 screws. The first stage screw is closer to the muzzle. A long first stage will have a lot of trigger movement but very little resistance.
Back out both screws. Load the gun and point it at the ground. Squeeze the trigger all the way. If the guns fires back out the screws some more until it doesn't. Now with the gun loaded and pointed at the ground, trigger squeezed, run in the first stage screw as far as possible. I was able to run it in all the way without the gun firing. Now with the trigger still squeezed run in the second stage screw until the gun fires. Give it a 1/2 turn more and see what you think.
The first stage will have a lot of movement, enough so you have to relocate the trigger finger. Then you will hit the second stage and feel a slight increase in pressure. From there the trigger will let off with very little creep and a very light trigger pull. I don't care for the length of the first stage but this is the lightest possible adjustment for me.