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I wonder how the D40 will perform now

January 2 2008 at 1:59 PM
  (Login caricktr)
from IP address 24.197.222.105

-
after replacing this ?

525c2628.jpg picture by R6j6B

Yeah those are gouges as they were upon removal . It was shooting pretty darned good with em too! 
I chopped metal and painted the wood ...might as well do some inside work too .Waiting for the blue glue to dry before test fire .

 
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(no login)
67.52.1.162

Tipical

January 2 2008, 2:31 PM 

More than 50% come out like that. It is why you do the deburing on the inside of the comp tube in the first place. If the factory would knock down the sharp edges in the first place the original seal wouldn't get cut to pieces on assembly. And pepole wonder why some guns are harsh and cause scope problems.

Kevin

 
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(Login caricktr)
24.197.222.105

50% ? That many ?

January 2 2008, 2:56 PM 

Glad I bought extra seals . Then I guess I have one of each a junk one in the 40 and a perfect one in the 48 . I did only a very light debur- hope it was enough and only cut myself once  . It sure cocks easier and is loads smoother with actual lube in the right places .
Uh oh ! trigger finger is twitchy again ...gotta go !

 
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Kevin
(no login)
67.52.1.162

Seals

January 2 2008, 3:15 PM 

I have tuned 6 dians so far for myself and a friend or 2. 3 -350s' 2-34s' and one 36 model. All but 2 had seals about what you had. Weihrauch guns the same. Now I use a Dremel with small silicon carbide bit to carefully debur then small files finally sandpaper by hand. To get to the back or bottom of the cocking arm slot use a folded up piece of sand paper and a 1/2" dowel to push the papaer carefully back and forth alond the cutout. I do not go into the compression area where the seal rides during stroke. I also do not cross hatch (60deg for those I've done.)any longer. I leave it as is and burnish in moly.

I use and mix in different lubes on diff surfaces. I like moly on the bottom and top of the spring and the first 2-3 coils. Then Velocity tar or heavy depending on the gun on the outside of the coils of the spring. Clear tar on the guide OD and ID (very little.) Some clear tar on the piston stem where it engages the trigger.

Kevin

 
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(Login caricktr)
24.197.222.105

Good info

January 2 2008, 6:22 PM 

even though the Dremel was right there ...didn't even think of it ! I used various grit of sandpaper and riffler files . The dry moly burnishing of the compression chamber  is a good thing . Lube locations are correct - I prefer single lubes per part - but toooomato tomaaaahto each achieves its intended result .

and the result is worth it

 
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