do my clicks go on my scope

M40 in .22 cal with a 1 PC. accushot mount and 450 RWS 3 X 9 X 40 scope

zero in one day and took me all of 45 min. come back next day and have to correct the elevation and vindage knobs, left it for about a week and had to do the same but this time probably only 2 clicks on up elevation and then 2 more down. this happens a lot

it seems like the scope is not set or locked, it kind of floats. Like you have to wake him up and tinker with the elevation knob a couple of clicks one way then the other way, alvays on elevation

It is a mystery to me, (I think the elevation knob is WAY up in clicks and is out of its range)

I might try to shim the back of the mount and drop the elevation knob to an acceptable level

unless somebody in this forum has a better idea, which makes it easier to do

warren



and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

Is the Accushot a fixed or adjustable mount? If it's adjustable it could be it's not holding the settings and some screws could be loose or a gimball broke. How about the mount moving backwards/creeping? Did you mark where it sits on the scope rail of the gun or have a pretty good idea? Does the Accushot have a stop pin?

If the problem is not with the mount, it could be the scope can't hold zero. I had that problem with the RWS 300 (4x32) scope that came with my 350. But I also had mount problems. The adjustable C-mount rings were 'dancing' on the RWS mount and could never stay tight or still.

If that's not the problem, then maybe the scope tube is bent but not equally tightening the ring screws a little at a time when it got installed.

Have you tried cleaning the bore? How about different brand and/or weight pellets to see if it shoots erratically with all of them?

Diana 350 Mag .22
Hammerli 850 .22
Various Crosman CO2 & Pump

Harry; I believe I maxed out the elevation knob because of the barrel droop on the rifle, it is WAY up there in the stratosfere. there is no movement of the mount, at all

I need to shim the mount like Tim does with a pc of thin aluminum on the back which in turn will let me lover the clicks on the elevation turret down.

that is all I can think off, besides this is a consistent problem with only the elevation knob. shoot it and stop, come back the next day or week and the first pellet is down by 1", click up and the pellet is up by 1", click down to original and BINGO

it is always on the first pellet, one shoot down (correct up) shoot and one up (correct down) and it holds center for the next 100 pellets, no more clicks needed

warren





and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

Warren, how many shots are you taking before you check your poi? The reason I ask is that these wonderful spring piston rifles will need a few shots to warm up. The seals expand a little from the heat of forst few shots. You could say the rifle needs to warm up a little.

Depending on the weather, consider that the rifle will be cold to start. Not operating temperature. That means dieseling and jsut regular old combustion need to warm the whole machine up a little. Even the scope cools. You have to keep those things in consideration when you shoot.

I've been to a few FT matches and also the 2000 Worlds, which were held at the club I occasionally shoot with. These guys were so careful just about their scopes not retaining a steady ambient temperature they were putting white towels on their thousand plus dollar scopes in between their turns on the lines.

So you have to believe that if it worried them in the summer, that poi would shift off poa, then emagine what's going on between your rifle and your scope in these temps during this time of year.

Let the rifle warm up with a few shots and know that the scope Will change with ambient temp variations. What you're experiencing is normal and not a problem.

Harv

Springers are a different animal. That said, I find I need a number of shots to warm up if I haven't shot in even a few days. Due to the hold sensitivity, I need to fire a batch of shots before I tinker with scope settings.

It also helps if the scope adjustment isn't maxed out. Shim away. I use thin brass.

"but I'll be needin' that gun, fer squirrels and such."

maybe up north that is the way. But you have a valid point, the thing is it only happens with the M40 not the other girls, I mean my other Dianas. LOL

but will try what you say and see what happens.

warren

and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

My cable modem dumped on me while I was trying to post earlier .

On the accushot mount - Degrease like normal , install mount and tighten so it still slides - you are going to use the pin as a droop compensator - snug up the stop pin while the mount is still moveable (pin at the rear for droop , pin at front for rise ) after snugging the pin down tighten the mount up 40 inch pounds ( or "tight" ). This should give the mount just enough correction to keep the recticle near center .

Hope this helps . 

Rick, you just saved me typing for a couple of minutes. I was just going to ask where the stop pin is located - front or rear. Makes a difference with some mounts when taking droop into consideration.

Diana 350 Mag .22
Hammerli 850 .22
Various Crosman CO2 & Pump

with a kiss idea (keep it simple stupid) concept

maybe I don't need a shim with Rick's way, I will also give this a try. it looks very promising and logical

40 pds of torque should hold the mount and the stop pin raises the mount if you laid on top of the rail and not in the stop hole, is this correct Mr. Mad Hatter of the airgun world? yes Rick it's you I am writing about here

warren












































and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

I love it. I just love it lol

Harv

I found that one by sheer coinky dink .

Warren that was 40 *inch* pounds NOT foot pounds . If you have a fairly long allan key -with  one and only one finger tighten the cap screws until the hex key flexes . That = @ 3-4 foot pounds ...which just happens to be in the 35-40 *inch* pound range . I don't want you to strip out a mount bolt !

I was all happy that I was going to get to use my Craftsman torque wrench in the off-season (race season) that goes up to 120 foot-pounds

I 'm getting race withdrawals now as I do every winter. I need to race!! I thought this airgun hobby might make it easier but it's not. Maybe if I shoot another 100 pellets it may calm me down a bit

Diana 350 Mag .22
Hammerli 850 .22
Various Crosman CO2 & Pump

40 in. pd. I just forgot to type the inches before the pounds

even better I have the Beeman 5039 which is made by the British as the Sports Match AOP55, it has a screw that lifts the mount for elevation and a horizontal stop pin

I talked to a machinist and will drill the last hole on the rail (the one with the little screw) for the hor. stop pin and the next pin fits the screw to raise the mount w/o drilling. both will be indented in those two holes, they both align perfectly without drilling another hole in the RWS rail

you get double stop pins and 4 base screws, this mount will not move

warren

WARREN!

That's 40 INCH POUNDS! or 3.3 foot pounds...only a good 1/4 inch drive torque wrench will go that low! It's easily possible to exceed that figure with a 3 inch Allen wrench. I have a 1/4" torque wrench, but if you don't, I suggest doing the final torque by grasping the Allen wrench by your thumb and forefinger where it makes the 90 degree bend then tucking your other three fingers around the rest of it instead of the heel of your hand and only using wrist motion instead of your whole forearm. Hold it for 5 seconds.

By way of comparison, when you screw a nut down on a 1/4 inch bolt nice and tight you are probably in the 200 to 300 inch pound category!

Rick, thanks for the tip, I'm going to have to drill my rail for the Accushot one piece, but it never occured to me to use the stop pin to pick up a few more hundreths of droop compensation.

D.

I have a 3/8 drive inch pound wrench - but I often cheat with the hex key flex method .