Hi Guys, I would like your opinion on the scope mount installed on the pic.
I bought my 460, accushot 1 piece mount, and Leapers 4-16x50 and got it installed at PA
But there are many posts about scope mounting on the 460, i would like to be sure of how i have it installed.
As you can se there is a vertical pin placed in the front part of the rifle's scope base, I don't know if that will shear off, just like it would happen if I use the rear large screw as a scope stop.
Also I would like to know how big can be the shim to raise the scope on the rear ring. Because the know its pretty close to its limit, and I would like to have more clicks for different distences.
Francisco,I also had my 460 w/ an acushot 1 pc. mount.,& thought all was well. When I removed it to sell the gun, to my suprise, the pin was sheared off!! (hung over front rail). Be carefull! For a rear shim I use 1 pc. of aluminum construction flashing cut to fit, has worked well for me. I have read of others using 35 mm. film shims, witch seems to make more sense to me, more forgiving,& cushion effect,& less likely to bend scope tube. Sorry I cant really help you much on this,, I just know what works for me. (dont try this at home) lol.! Others here can help you way more than me. Good luck Francisco,Tim.
Hey Francisco, Yeah thats the set up I had,but your mount has 4 base screws,mine only had 3. The extra clamping preasure from one more screw may do the trick. My Diana 54 has 4 base screws (30 mm. tube) & has stayed put for well over 1k shots. In your pics. I can see the shim under rear of scope,, can you tell what its made of? Judjing by the gaps between the rings looks to me like its thick enough to acount for droop. Keep an eye out for any rearward movement. Since you cant shoot a couple hundred rounds to "break in" & scope is aready mounted. Good luck Francisco,Tim. (just my 1 cents,if I had 2 cents,maybee I would really be able to help!)
So should I leave the mount the way it is now?
About the shim, it is a piece of rubber about 1mm already tightened (that's what PA putted on.), But I would like to raise it a little more because, on this scope, It has about 6.25 full revolutions from min to max adjustment. And As the way it is shimmed right now, I zeroed it to 25mt. at about 5 turns... and to hit a target 50m I raised it but it was about 5 clicks down from its limit.
So what I would like to have is to zero it somelike below the midpoint of all the knob travel, so i can play with the setup at many logner distances.
If you can recommend some setup tips, i would appreciate.
I think mabe zeroing it at 1/4 of knob travel to 10m would be nice so then I would have all the rest of clicks to set another distance.
I had PA mount my scope too, so it's similar to yours. They used a piece of clear plastic about 1mm thick, only half as wide as the rear ring. I think that is about the maximum before you start to risk bending the tube. However, if yours is some kind of rubber, it may be compressing, giving you less than what I have.
I suggest two things. The next time you have the scope off, if your shim really is rubber, replace it with plastic, up to maybe 1.5 mm. You could cut a piece or two out of a plastic drink bottle. Remember to alternate the Allen screws in an X pattern as you re-tighten. An Accushot mount should have some tape on the rings and you don't need to tighten too much. Whatever you can get with that little Allen wrench and 3 fingers should do it.
My scope came with an extra stop pin, and you can grind or file off the pin and the first 2 threads so that the it is the same diameter as the Allen screw itself, and is smooth for about 2mm. Replace the stop pin with that and hang it off the front at the same depth as the thickness of the scope rail, this will at least double the bearing area on the rail, and really should not break off. I just went to the hardware store and bought a 5mm Allen screw and used that. File the threads or you will chew up the front of the rail.
My 460 arrives tomorrow! WhooHoo! Make sure you see the posts on low power and leaky breech seal from the last two weeks...hope both of us got a good one! (Also my Plano case horror story)
Duncan, Thanks for your advice on shimming, and with the stop pin.
I just received my 460 from PA on Friday, when I got the package I got pretty upset because of the poor packaging that came with my order.
The package shipped overnight by Fedex to Miami, Fl and then I got sea shipping to Guatemala, where I live.
The people who received my order told me and sent me some pictures of the poor broken enclosure, and also notified me that there were some pieces all over around.
The Fedex people only delivered and told them they couldn't turn the package back, so to make the claim to the provider (in this case PA)
So when i received the INCOMPLETE order I figured out there were about $250 missing on items (pellets, Crossman 1377, swivels, etc.), now I am trying to get this problem solved with people in PA, I hope i get succesful.
Anyway, About the RWS 460 it is great, it has the accushot mounted with a Big Leapers 4-16x50.
I did installed the 3" Sunshade but had to remove the factory rear site. By the way It looks awesome like that.
About all the recent posts, I saw the one from John in PA (great one!), and did the tissue test. The result was a full intact tissue, I got very excited about it. I thought I was going thru the breech seal shimming process, but finally i won't need to.
I have not use it on a chrony yet, but next week I'll try to test it.
Hope you don't have the trouble i got, and also hope you get a no leaky breech seal!!
These are some pics of my 460 with and with out the sunshade, shooting 50mt targets, and also showing the "brilliant packaging box "that I recieved half empty.
Francisco, like you i just mounted a scope on my 460. I used beeman 5039 mount
on mine, could not beleive how much i had to raise back of scope to get it on
package said i could go 2 1/2 turns on back screw, i used two. 5039 also four screw, will be interesting to see how these two mounts hold up on 460.I read
most all posts to pick up all i can from people with alot of knowledge.
good luck with your 460
Rayburn11
Francisco, For what my 1 cents is worth,If I were you I would shoot the heck out of your new gun. Looks to me like it is set up right? You refer to differant yardage & moi clicks? Set it for 20 yrd. zero (dead on) and learn hold over/under for differant ranges. Dont know what you predominent range would be, but for most magnum airguns 20 yrds is pretty good for zero. You dont want to mess around w/ "clickers" for differant yardage. Hold over/or hold under is better. Sight in at 20 yrds. Your poi. (point of impact) will be low at 10 yrds.,,seems to defy logic,but true. Ill wait for further posts from you regarding sight in. P.A. claims to have "AirgunSmithes". I look forward to posts from you regarding the job they did mounting your scope. Good luck Francisco,Tim.
Tim, I see your point now, you're right. I'll start learning to use the mil dot reticle i have for reference to shoot at different distance.
I think I still have no defined range to use, but I'll zero it to 20m .
Maybe I was pushing too much my 460 for the range I was shooting, but the results were the ones I can blame. I was shooting at 50mt and grouping about 3in. (see the pic)
I also have to tell that this is my first scope, and my first "serious" Airgun (had a Daisy pumper 350fps 15 years ago). So as you can see I'm pretty not much experienced now. And I just have shot about 125 pellets by now. I think with practice i will improve this grouping.
About the Instalation made on PA, I think it was very good, the Knob dial came at 0 on both windgage and elevation, and was zeroed to about 25-30 yds. Until I started to mess with it.
There were some allen screw on the mount that i had to tighten. And I also dont see any blue LockTite on it, not even a little.
Dear Francisco, congratulations with your beautifull rifle but you let me cry when I see the way how the scope is fitted. I guess the scope must become a short life on this way. The best fitting part to use is the Dampa Mount ( a solid "heavy liquid filled" mount ) which abosrbs all the kinetic energy going from your action to your scope during a shot with this powerfull rifle. No probelems with scopes leaving the rail/dovetail or changing the adjustment of the scope. It seems they're not for sale in the USA, when Beeman offers you a Sportsmatch Mount it is the AOP55 what gives no protection against shocks etc. You absolutely need the DM060 ( the "heavy liquid filled" one ) for maximum protection. Keep contact with Warren because I suggested him to do some tests with the Dampa, best regards from Johannis.
Warren once again you make an old mans day. More credit than I deserve. You are too kind. Francisco,,You will see long range groups on the net. that most "real world" shooters like myself & others here consider suspect at best. If I could shoot a "fresh" (un broken in/un tuned) 460 & group like you did at 50 mt. (165 feet?), I would be thrilled! Dont be dissapointed by that group my friend,under the circumstances that is AWSOME! Thanks for being honest & posting that target. Gun will smooth out & you will too. Keep an eye on scope mount screws! Best of luck my friend,, keep us posted. Tim.
Dear gentleman, I mentioned this VERY nice group on the card and read this is the result of a 50 meters attempt ? Congratulations to this rifleman, is this done with the 460 Magnum, I am curious about the pellet type ? For your information: I had a closer look to the pictures and have a serious look to the scope mount, there will come a moment it will leave the rail when it's not modified to clamping with the 4 availabble screws. Be carefull ! Beste regards from Johannis.
Thanks, Johannis
The pellet was supposed to be 14.3gr CP Domed, at least that's what the box says, but they look more like CP pointed. (I read that's another problem with PA)
A very nice 460 you have. For a shim on the rings, I used an old 3.5" computer disc and took the metal slide piece off and cut it with a pair of surgical scissors to shape. It fits nice and is about the right thickness. Also it will not compress like a plastic or rubber shim.
The way your scope is mounted I think I would rather remove the stop screw and slide the mount back some so that all 4 screws were squeezing against the rails. Seems to me you would get a better chance of mount not slipping. I would also put some blue Loctite on the screws to help keep them tight.
Would you mind posting the PA part number for that nice 4 screw mount you got? I saw only a 3 screw accushot mount when I ordered one for my 460.
I'm sorry about your bad experience with PA packing. It's good that your rifle or 1377(I think?) didn't get damaged.
I also think you have a good group for 1st shots at 50m.
Sure, its the Accushot 1-Pc Mount w/1" Rings, High, 11mm Dovetail Item#:LERGPM2PA-25H4, but in the picture it only has 3 screws, and mine has 4 (got lucky)
I think we both should look for the Beeman 5039 and the Dampa Mount D060 that experienced people suggest.
About moving the Mount to fit the whole dovetail rail, i would have to remove the rear large screw, which i trully don't know whats for, do you?
Dear folks, it seems the Dampa Mounts are not for sale in your country but I will help you to do some tests with one of these mounts. I will send one to Warren that he can do some "research and developement" with this mount and he can share with you what he found out. Let me know via Warren what you think about my suggestion ? Kind regards from Johannis. ( of course total free: I will let you know when I need some info about an Inland M1 !! )
Hi Francisco: "About moving the Mount to fit the whole dovetail rail, i would have to remove the rear large screw, which i trully don't know whats for, do you?"
I have read that the large screw is for mounting a "diopter" sight, popular in Europe. You can remove it to slide the mount back with no problem. If your eye relief is correct after moving the mount, you may find that the stop pin lines up with one of the shallow holes in the Diana rail. If so, and if you modify an 5mm Allen screw as I said above, you should get a pretty solid mount. Some people have drilled the hole a little deeper, but since those holes actually have a pin beneath them that goes into holes in the receiver, you must be VERY careful and only add maybe 1mm or less depth. This will, of course, void the warranty, so it's up to you. This thread is somewhere back a few weeks on this forum, I think. Here is a picture of this mod:
Yes that is a pic of my RWS 36 0.22. I am running a JM GRT kit with Apex seal, and many other mods. I like this gun a lot. It needs a better scope but I used a Accushot (leapers, or Centerpoint) all the same depends on who sells it to you - mount. As this gun only has about 15 min of droop I can use straight mounts. If you have more I would get a custom drooper fron Tim at Mac1. Last time I bought a drooper for my HW80 (Beeman R1) it was $45.00 and it basically is this very mount that he has altered. That IMHO is a DEAL! Then you have a solid mount.
I like to deepen the rear hole (not too far) but far enough for using it as a real scope stop vs. the less appealing alternative of using the front of the rail. The shallow hole is for the C-Mount (Bsquare) shallow stop pin that is not deep at all.
Here is the same gun with the leapers mount and a cheap simonds scope.
either the incredibly value priced Accushot/Leapers/Centerpoint with the stop pin/hole modified for proper engagement , or middle road priced BKL 260d7 mount . Either will do the job admirably .
