my 34 seems to like loosing the screws of the trigger guard and side ones after I shoot some pellets, so the screwdriver comes to play
once, twice and so on I seem to tighten the screws back up, GUESS what. the stock develops a slight fisure in the wood from the screw from the trigger guard at the bottom to the front of the wood stock. it seems I went overboard with the screwdriver
called UMAREX for the $$ of a 34 wood stock, $82.74. I ask Ryan for the panther stock, answer $94.85, HOLY COW that is close to buying another 34
solution, disassemble the wood stock from the 34, use Gorilla glue and compress with clamps the fisure of the wood
question; has anyone had this problem before?
Warren
and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"
Use a white glue, gorilla glue is way too messy. Pry the crack open a little and spread the glue inside the crack. Use a tooth pick or some thing similar to spread the glue in the crack. Clamp and wipe of excess glue with a damp cloth. The repair will be good as new.
Hey Warren, Tim here. Im still learning airgun mech. but have been playing around w/wood longer than I care to admit. Joe gave what I consider to be sound advice. Poly adhesives are very messy,,especially for repairs on "finished" wood like your stock. Poly adhesives expand during the curing process & "ooze out",, of the "repair". (You must also dampen one or both of mating surfaces for good adhesion) This alone makes it unsatisfactory for small cracks in "finished" repairs. Not to mention, its easy to wipe clean at first, but as the curring process nears setting up its nearly impossible to "wipe" from any prev finished wood. Im not shure from your post as to exactly the prob. you have? If it is a crack in stock forward you may need to repair & reinforce "iside" w/epoxy & light fiberglass cloth.(for bullet proof lasting repair). Warren dont buy a new stock yet! I would be happy to help you if I can. Feel free to E-Mail me timmyj1959@yahoo.com Your Friend Tim.
forgo the Gah-riller glues - The *are* messy as said above . Titebond II wood glue may be a better choice for you Warren . I've had good luck with it coupled with pinning with dowels(depending on how large the crack is) .
I have repaired a few cracks in stocks, unfortunatley they were not airgun stocks but acra glass is usually what is used for stock repair, it is like epoxy and it is strong stuff. Is used for glass bedding but alot of stock makers I beleive use it for cracks rather than anything else. The other thing I have read and don't know if this is how they do it but somehow they can use vacuum to draw the epoxy into the crack so that it gets all the way in, at home we can't do that so you just have to do the best you can, I have used it though and the crack usually seems bonded pretty well after. Also do like Bill said use blue loc tite, I have been letting it cure up for 3 days this winter when I use it and also sometimes I swear the stuff varies, that is one bottle I might buy really works and sometimes I have seen the stuff not do as well. I would attempt repair over stock replacement.
I've had great luck hardening damaged wood with thin CA (super glue). The "thin" variety sold at hobby shops will soak well into the wood in the area of the damage, and is easy to apply. Just drip it on until it stops wicking into the wood.
Faster, quicker and stronger than more traditional wood glues. You don't have to try to pry cracks open to get the glue into it. So long as there's most of the material there, just damaged, this works great. Be sure it's dried a couple hours before putting the screws back in, or the residual liquid could seep out under compression and really lock the screws!
It also makes a slightly better thread lock for the front 2 stock screws. Install 'em, torque'em, and put a drip on the threads on the inside. It can be broken with torque, just be sure to use a correct-fitting screwdriver (of course).
If it's not too late use a syringe to get into the crack to apply the glue .Use glass bedding compound if possible.Diabetic syringes can be bought at any drugstore for a quarter or less and are disposable....................Harold
Nope, you can get syringes at any drugstore. Tell'em what you're using them for (glue application) and they'll show you the larger sizes. Insulin syringes are typically 1cc or smaller (wife is type 1 diabetic....)
I like 5cc syringes for GP use. 2 oz ones are real useful for some things too (but not this!)
Model aircraft fuel tubing (silicon) fits the 5cc ones pretty well, too.
got a hold of an old refinisher furniture guy, grumpy, no nonsense, sparce vocabulary that has been in business for more than 50 years, he quoted me $20.00 after I showed him the wood stock
1. I asked him if the wood would crack again through the same place, he said "No"
2. then if it was a permanent fix "yes" was his answer
3. how difficult was the job "easy" and I said then why $20.00? "Because I am putting my reputation on the job"
4. how many days would the repair take "2 days" why? "2 days, 10 minutes to apply the glue and the rest for the glue to cure"
I left the wood stock with him you just cannot argue, discuss with someone like him. old age and plenty of experience
warren
and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"
Warren this guy could very well be gold! To give you an example, I am a dedicated long distance runner, and Nationally certified running coach. I have seem hundreds of injuries during my career. I once had a major problem with my hip. I went to no less than three doctors, and for 2 years went through hell. They did nothing, nada. I was at the point to do surgery and a friend of mine recommended that I talk to this special massage therapist that works out of his house. He is known as the Massage Nazi! I was very leary at first. But I decided to go see him, as I had nothing to loose. Well, when I arrived, he looked me over and said, OK, get on the table and I will have you well in about 1 hour. RIGHT! I thought. Well this guy used his hands and worked my hip till it hurt like hell! Into the workout he proclaimed! Wow! here it is! All of a sudden my whole hip turned blood red. He had been working out a "knot" that had been forming for years! Finally blood was flowing through the hip. That night I was able to raise my leg a whole 90 degrees, which before I was not able to raise 30 degrees! Two more sessions and he had completely healed my leg. 3 doctors and 2 months of physical therapy did NOTHING! This guy, that I paid $55.00 per hour completely healed me. Since that time I have sent him countless referrals with tremendous results.!
Even tho you have already committed the repair to a pro I must comment.
Jason Burry has the right of it. Many cracks in stocks are simply too small to get glue into even with the tiniest diameter hypodermic needle.
In such cases something that will 'wick' into small spaces of its' own volition are the only effective means to repair them properly short of physically expanding the crack. The thin CAs (Cyano Acrilates) are vastly superior in this respect. If you are allergic to the CA family, as am I and many other, the only alternative I am aware of with good wicking properties is 'Super Phatic'. It is a German product that is a member of the Aliphatic resin family of adhesives. Unlike the vast majority of the Aliphatics (i.e.: Carpenters' wood glues) it is very thin with excellent wicking properties tho still falling short of the water-thin CAs.
For years the only US supplier was the model airplane distributer 'Hobby Lobby' in (IIRC) Brentwood, TN. It is definitely NOT the same firm as the Hobby Lobby franchise stores across the nation. They also may not currently be the sole distributor.
In the case of minute cracks such as you described, which are all-too-common, a wicking adhesive is the only practical adhesive. Tom @ Buzzard Bluff
Acrilates/now defunct in Diana 34 ca.. especially 177. cak
February 29 2008, 6:57 PM
Super Phatic pervick bearing, have been the main focus for the underdevelopment of c-zoid RWS maltroid low diameter barrelsl for years. Anyone that has fired a 34 model (177.cal) is aware of the .0096. decrease in muzzle velocity of shots especially fired on cloudy days. Local and state biologist openly admit to the decrease in urban squirrel populations as a result of these manufactures. "malfunctions." Because of these scientific muzzle velocities test, it is highly recommended that "If hunting of game animals of squirrel of smaller vermin, that the shooter use the "phatic pervick barrel" utilizing the the new barrel diameter of .oo98.
The benefit to the Grey Squirell population will be statically improved upon, resulting in higher kill ratios for urban hunters.
Ac rilatetes/now defunckt in Diana 34 ca.. especially 177.cak????
February 29 2008, 7:38 PM
Hey Dave,Think you can put your last post into "laymans" terms? You guys w/ all that colledge "edjumication" leave me in the dark??LOl.! Hope all is well my friend,Tim.
Warren, I have done little research on stocks. and found 1 34 used and a 45 stock both for less than $25.00. Check yellow forum ads, gunbroker.com and etc.
OK.....You can't get the adhesive into a small crack. The other stuff is more dangerous THAN crack. What to do??? What to do??? The solution is obvious. If you can't get the adhesive into a SMALL crack, go for a LARGER crack. Stand the gun against the wall and step on the buttstock. No...wait...if you have drywall it will put a hole in the wall. Hmmmm....Got it! Cock the rifle until just before the anti-beartrap engages and let the barrel go. May take one or two times, but it should snap at the wrist. Now you can relax and do it the RIGHT WAY. Get some glue, brass armorer's pins, a cold Bud and relax. If you're really inexperienced or had one too many Buds, it's always a good idea to have a spare stock handy, just in case your repair doesn't go as planned.
Now, having said that, I hope the guy you farmed the repair out to did a good job. And, if that sucker opens up, get your $20 back. If he values his reputation that much, he'll fork it over. Should that happen, don't despair. If the crack opens more, then you can get some accraglass into it. I don't see you having to get a new stock, unless you want to.
And, if it's really, really bad, do what the native Americans did. Take some rawhide, wet it, sew it/wrap it on and once it dries you will have a stock repair that will last 'till Doomsday and a week after.
For the some of the other posters (and you know who you are), please, please don't miss your meds again.
Ciao! I mean, Auf Veterzein. (Is Der DianaWerke Collective, after all.)
Warren, Tim here. You got a live one here bud!! Alot of input on your stock woes. Alot of good info to help you. Since my original post,(in wich I said,I was not shure of your "real" prob) I have kept my mouth shut. As I said before,Im just a newb tuning airguns,But Ive been playing around with wood for a LONG time. To others that posted here, yea I know all about the "hot" glues,,I have 6 R-C planes myself& the latest JR 4 chnl. radio. Red Feather, remember Circus,Circus?? Warren, E-Mail me w/ pics., of your stock. If I think I can help you I will. I would be more than happy to fix it for free,you will just be out the shipping to me,(Illship it back). If I see from your E-Mail I think I can fix it & find I cant, Ill buy you a new stock.Tim. P.S. If you buy a new one then maybee you will be less hesatent to send me the broke one then? Ill still fix it as a back up! Tim.
I like it. One word of caution on those who like da King Kong glue. hat shtuff expands where its put, so there is the potential to actually make the break worse. Gorilla glue seems to be better where two seperate parts are clamped together and the glue can spread away from those parts and be wiped away.
Yeah the poly glues do expand alot during the curing process. See my first post to Warren here. They are great for "new construction",but not suitable for repairs w/ finished wood. As I said,, Im new to tuning airguns,, But,,When it comes to wood, Ill go head to head w/ anyone. Not trying to be big headed in any way,, but "Bo Knows Wood"!! I may lose some friends here, If I cant fix Warrens "wood stock" it cant be fixed!! May be epoxy,(favorite) standard wood glue,"hot glue", poly glue, or most likely a little stress to open "crack"to introduce most epoxy possible& reinforce inside as needed. Maybee a little custom beding of action? You betcha,if that what it takes! Good luck Warren,alot of good folks have chimed in on this one. Why dont you just drop your stock off on your trek up I-95 to me & pick it up on your way back home?? Your friend Tim.
No, I don't think you'll lose friends here. I think we'll all be fine as long we all recognize there are going going to be those among us who always know more than we do on one thing or another. For example, I have a limited and dated knowlege of wood glues while your experience is up to date and with more types in different situations. I might have a little knowege on a certain airgun and you on another. Its all good.
Thanks Harv, for your true honesty. As I said before,tuning airguns is not what I know best, You guys got me by far at the fine art of tuning. But wood I know,Ive been playin w/it for ovr 40 yrs.. Can I keep up w/A wood nerd (colledge edjumicated) probly not. Can I challenge him in the real world,, moisture content, 20% for framing a house,,10% or less for furniture (5% or less better) Can that young nerd use my Wood Mizer sawmill & my Still chainsaw ,cut down trees & build a million $ home,, Probly not. Everyone has there own area of expertise. I respect any man w/ exp. at his given game. Bla, Bla, Thanks Harv. Tim.P.S. If Warren gives me a shot, Ill fix his stock. Promise. Tim.
Warren, for a nice replacement stock from Sportwaffen Schneiders I am always at your service ! Nice topic and a lot of very good meant info ! Americans communicate well about their air rifles ! Best regards from Johannis.
will get the stock back this week and see how it holds. It just amazes me that it would split like that. I know it is just a $130.00 airgun but the prices for replacement are ridiculous, close to $90.00 w/shipping, you are better off bying a new gun
It will be fixed but will also be looking for a used stock for the 34 in synthetic material
warren
and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"
Those prices reflect having to stock replacement parts that are rarely ordered. Not many people replace rifle stocks with factory ones. Even the big companies like Remington charge a lot for that.
first of all I got my prices from UMAREX not the cheapest place to buy RWS LOL
what a contradiction the sole distributor of RWS, talk about being held hostage to a product or should I say monopoly.
yes RF understand having an inventory that does not move to often, what gets' me is that the synthetic ($90.00) is more in price than the wood stock ($85.00) maybe because the oil prices are $100.00 a 55 gal barrel and we still have some trees left in Brazil
a $90.00 plastic stock is absolutely outrageous to me, of course I am the one that needs it and for a $134.00 air gun?
warren
PS: not the first or last rant from me but like Hector say's I am nothing more than a airgunner
and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"
