I would like to know if there is a way to reduce the trigger pull on a 350 Magnum. It's set at3 pounds and a half at the factory but I would prefer something around 2 pounds and a half. The owner manuel does give instructions about the trigger pull screw, but nothing about the trigger pull, is there another screw somewhere for that ?

Thanks for your input

I wrote about the owner's manuel and instruction about the trigger pull screw but I meant the trigger travel screw. My post was not making any sense the way it was written . sorry about that

I'm not sure if the 350 trigger and the 460 Mag trigger are identical, but if yours only has one adjustment screw it's likely the same. I just backed mine out about 1/2 turn CCW and it's pretty close to 2 lbs. Since I doubt that the change per revolution of the screws is identical from gun to gun, I would suggest you start with 1/4 turn increments. When it gets close to where you want, use 1/8 to 1/16 turn or less. You should notice that the travel lengthens but the pull gets lighter. My travel is not exactly smooth, there is a slight increase, then some more movement with a slightly scratchy feel, then more increase in pull then the release. Someday I'll get in there and fix it, or it will just break in on it's own. It doesn't really bother me now that I'm used to it. Maybe I'll lighten it up some more and see if my groups get better. Doubt if I'd want to go lighter than 1.5 lbs for hunting.

Good Luck, Nice gun

Duncan

All the new Dianas have the same T05 trigger with 1 screw and they are all 3.33 to 3.5lbs. You cannot reduce the force it takes to pull the trigger by just adjusting the trigger travel (or first stage as Diana calls it). You 'd have to do some work and tune the trigger assembly in order to get it down to 2lbs. The only adjustment our Dianas have is the travel before the pull-off point, if the gun is stock.

Hi Harry,

I have a hard time agreeing with this concept, because I have just come from the range, where I adjusted the 460 trigger another half turn out (CCW). I have not used a scale, but I'm SURE the trigger is lighter in pull than it was out of the box. It just isn't that difficult to feel the difference between 3 lbs and 1.5 lbs...Yes, I am getting a lot more travel, but the release is distinctly lighter too.

As I said before, it's the creep that bugs me...my 460 trigger is nowhere near as good as the 46 trigger, IMHO. Maybe I'll just screw it way out for fun, then all the way in, then out again....I wonder if there isn't a burr on the end of the screw making the creep funky.


D.

Curtis

T05 Trigger Tear Down and Pull Adjust


Hi Everybody,

It seems that there is confusion about the Diana T05 trigger and its adjustments. Here is a T05 tear down that I did on a 350 Magnum with a 11/06 manufacture date....these pictures are before I polished and jeweled the trigger housing (doesn't make the trigger work any better, just looks VERY cool, but then again, who ever sees it....the lube, deburr, and the burnishing of the internals is the CRITICAL part...sooooooo... Lets take a peak inside; the pics run in order as the parts come off.

Here is a complete T05 trigger just pulled out of a Diana 350 Magnum



Next is the reducing sleeve which it just a flexible plastic cover



Trigger blade ....trigger blade pin .... trigger spring : Pull on your trigger when your gun is NOT cocked; this spring returns the trigger to normal position forward position when pressure is released .... has nothing to do with pull weight or tension....


Top view of metal trigger housing .... sliding & locking plates .... safety engagement plate & spring .... plastic safety button unit



safety engagement plate & spring removed .... when the gun is cocked and the piston moves back it presses on this plate and pushes the plastic safety back....the spring pushes the plate back forward while the plastic safety button can still be pushed forward to fire or pulled back again to “safety ON” position…



Same as above but with spring stop removed….



Side view of trigger housing with the sliding and locking plates lifted up a bit…



Now you can see the sliding and locking plates....take note of the little nipple at the bottom of the locking plate….must be reassembled with THIS plate BEHIND the sliding plate and with the nipple down!!!!!!!!!! These lock and hold the piston back when the gun is cocked....more on these to come....keep reading to see how they work



Top back view of the trigger housing showing the upper lever (closet to the hole) .... lower lever (closet to the back)



Rear (back) view of trigger housing showing a better shot of the trigger spring .... this spring dictates 99% of the “pull weight” of the trigger…wanna change the “pull weight of the trigger”…this is where to start…I suggest buying a few of them before you start tweaking the “pull weight” of the trigger….if ya mess up, ya got spares!!



Underneath (bottom) view of trigger housing showing the lower lever where the trigger blade comes into contact to fire the gun (can see the upper lever too and its spring which is called the “leg spring”....



Here is the lower lever showing the trigger spring and the lower lever pin…see that notch DIRECTLY ABOVE the hole where the pin goes....that is what I will call the “mouth”….remember that word “mouth”....when the trigger is pulled, it comes into contact with the part of the lower lever that is below and in front of the pin’s hole thus pushing it up and at the same time pushing the back of the lower lever down and compressing the trigger spring; again, remember that it is the trigger spring that dictates 99% of the "pull weight" of the trigger blade that so many people talk about. Now the 2 stage trigger adjustment screw...when you turn the screw clockwise on the bottom of the trigger blade, it moves further up and comes into contact with this lower lever thus shortening the first stage (shorter first stage)…turning the screw on the bottom of the trigger blade counterclockwise moves the end of the screw moves further away from the bottom of this lower lever resulting in a longer first stage....turn the screw counterclockwise TOO FAR and you will not be able to feel when the trigger blade engages the lower lever .... you will have just eliminated all of the first stage; then you won’t be able to feel the release or “firing point"....anyway....keep reading and....remember the “mouth” of this lower leg; it’s important....OK, read on....



With the lower lever, its pin, and the trigger spring removed, you can now see the upper lever which has a bit of a hump angling up (looks like a shadow) below the big hole in the body of the trigger housing …the back end of the piston rod comes into contact with this “hump” and pushes the upper lever down so its back end edge comes into contact with the lower lever’s “mouth” and pushes the lower lever down.

When you squeeze the trigger, the trigger pushes up on the bottom of the lower lever…the lower lever pivots on its pin with the trigger spring keeping pressure pushing against this movement; this resistance is the trigger pull weight. At that certain point, the “mouth” of the lower lever releases the back edge of the upper lever and with the leg spring pushes up STRONGLY on the upper lever, it snaps up and comes into contact with the nipple of the locking plate (remember them? *LOL*) releasing the piston rod and BAMB, the piston spring starts to push the piston forward.... is everything starting to make more sense now?



Here is a bottom view of the trigger housing showing the bottom side of the upper leg and its spring called the “leg spring”



Hope this helps clear things up...

Maybe you have a "funky" or defective, not 100% trigger, don't know, but the T05 trigger is not pull-weight adjustable - that's just the way it was built.. UNLESS you tune the trigger and do all that work that Curtis describes in his post above. So telling someone turn it a 1/4 of an inch and see how much lighter it gets, is misinformation. If you have a 1.5-2lb T05 stock trigger it would be the first that I 've heard of, which means you may have a "unique" 460

However, I should mention that adjusting the screw too much and giving it a long (travel) 1st stage, or the other way around where you eliminate 1st stage by adjusting the screw, can give the impression of a lighter trigger pull.

Diana 350 Mag .22
Hammerli 850 .22
A few Crosman CO2 & Pump .177

Harry: "However, I should mention that adjusting the screw too much and giving it a long (travel) 1st stage, or the other way around where you eliminate 1st stage by adjusting the screw, can give the impression of a lighter trigger pull."

I really need to get a fish scale and check it, I'm just SO sure it's lighter. But, yes, I do think it's "funky" and sooner or later I'll get brave enough to do something about it, especially when we are so lucky to have someone like Curtis who doesn't mind sharing his expertise along with really good pictures!

Now Curtis, it you would just give us a hint about which surfaces are critical to trigger feel.....

D.