http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1205916172/Synthetic+Stocks+and+Use+of+Lock-Tite---Precautionary+Update

Wonder if there's some kind of alternative like a thread wrapping?

Yes there is, Red. I've been using it for years. Its Plumber's tape. The white stretchy stuff that comes in rolls. You wind with the screw thread pitch as many revolutions as you need and everything stays tight. It doesn't harm anything and you don't have to wait for it to dry.

This is the stuff I put on the ball detent on the underlever lockup on my 46 and it hasn't given me a second thought ever since.

If you put enough winds on a screw you can tighten stock screws to where they just hold without crushing the wood and those screws Will Not move. So your stock will rest snugly within the hold of the screws but the screws won't back in or out.

I think I'm going to try some scope mounts.... (don't know why I haven't yet)

Harv

I refer to it as "teflon tape".Everyone in my current or past line of work knows this stuff is a must for any threaded fitting between an air compressor & the compressed air tool you are using. not like locktite, but creates an airtight seal. (not a thread locker,but a sealant). Man here I go again running my big mouth!! If I knew 1/4 as much about airguns as I learend from my Dad about building houses I would be able to help my friends here. Thanks guys for having me,& my family. Tim.

Science is sciencevand physics is physics. No doubt you could easily apply all you know to various aspects of airgunning. Just like the teflon tape.

I'll bet you've got a lot of untried tricks up your sleeve which you know would work.

Harv

nt.

But I figured, it being Teflon, would it work or actually be worse and loosen things?

I've not used it on airguns, but I have used teflon tape on various mechanical assemblies where I need a screw or bolt to stay put under vibration but not be tight - small engine carb parts come to mind. It's not a thread locker, but it will tighten the mechanically loose fit between the threads and it absorbs vibration preventing the screw from moving.

It's good stuff, tim, when thread locker is impractical. Just a matter of getting enough on there without expanding the screw hole enough to crack the plastic... If the screw goes into plastic... Which it doesn't for stock screws....

J

Teflon is good for metal on metal, any kind, locktite is not. use locktite betten metal and wood or any hard synthetic and a metal material

would you use locktite with a nail and drywall?? or metal and cement?? It will work for a while but will not hold for a long time, why don't you use brass or copper?? soft (wood) and hard (metal) needs a special bond, maybe like in betten properties

metal does not deviate, wood will give over time, boy's with boy's and girl's with girl's (in this case)

warren

PS: expecting corrections to this post

and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

Uh... no.

If you use Loc-tite on a metal to wood connection you're going to ruin the wood the first time you try to turn out the screw. That Loc-tite will bond into the porous grain of the wood and once that happens you can forget about the wood having any "thread". It will tear. Lock-tite was designed for metal to metal connections. Its semi permanent.

>would you use locktite with a nail and drywall?? or metal and cement?? It will work for a while but will not hold for a long time, why don't you use brass or copper?? soft (wood) and hard (metal) needs a special bond, maybe like in betten properties <

You're supposed to use a drywall screw.

Lastly, temperature changes, if they're drastic enough will cause any material to breath (expand/contract). There's a thing made by Vortec called an accuracy tamer. You're supposed to use it on the end of an AIRGUN barrel to tune the "whip" or harmonic resonance of the barrel's response to the airgun being fired. The idea is that inside an accuracy tamer are weights which can be turned forward or back by clicks in order to adjust the weight on the very end of the barrel. Naturally a carbine barrel is cut short to eliminate or take away the opportunity of movement on the firing cycle to affect the projectile's flight. The Air Arms rifles actually have something like a sixteen or thirteen inch barrel inside their shrouds. That's how they address the question. Shorter barrel, less opportunity of barrel resonance affecting a projectile still in the tunnel during the firing cycle.

It gets even more interesting because the lightest draft right at the muzzle will have a huge effect on the impact at (or near) the target. Much more than say, still air all the way to the target except for a ten mph breeze four feet away from impact.

Here the design advantage of the shroud well ahead of the muzzle is that a carbine barrel inside a full length shroud can control the air immediately escaping ahead, around and behind the pellet at the moment it begins free flight. The alternate step of a non shrouded barrel would ba an air stripper of some design right at the muzzle.

These advantages only become useful with proper follow through.

Harv

Did I miss a turn somewhere? I think what the guy was saying is that loctite isn't so good for non metal to metal bonds.

VORTEK, not Vortec. (see anybody can miss a beat)

and I have one in my 48

you are correct in the description of this muzzel break

warren

PS: RF a gifted writer like Harvey has the right to wander in his post's LOL

and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

"use locktite between metal and wood"

correction, I meant to type;

"DO NOT USE locktite between metal and wood"

since we do not have the "EDIT" in our post yet

warren

and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

It works for me. The front screw on the trigger guard of alot of the guns we have is easy to "strip". We tend to tighten it up like we do the rear one that on most guns is the main one that really locks the stock to the "action". Its easy to strip that small front screw! Try this,, Mix some epoxy w/a toothpick,apply a small amount into the offending hole (wood) Should fix the problem. In extreeme cases you may have to fill the hole completly,& drill a small pilot hole&re thread. Epoxy is GREAT stuff! Dont put the screw in on first advice above,let it cure first! (sorry). If I can ever help anyone w/problems like this e me. Every one of these problems is differant. Just want to help if I can,Tim.

It works for me. The front screw on the trigger guard of alot of the guns we have is easy to "strip". We tend to tighten it up like we do the rear one that on most guns is the main one that really locks the stock to the "action". Its easy to strip that small front screw! Try this,, Mix some epoxy w/a toothpick,apply a small amount into the offending hole (wood) Should fix the problem. In extreeme cases you may have to fill the hole completly,& drill a small pilot hole&re thread. Epoxy is GREAT stuff! Dont put the screw in on first advice above,let it cure first! (sorry). If I can ever help anyone w/problems like this e me. Every one of these problems is differant. Just want to help if I can,Tim.

Sorry about the double posts. A little help Russ? Sorry, Tim.