I had a question and i figured all of you who have owned a Diana for a while could answer this for me.

I got a 460 about a month ago and i am coming close to putting 1000 rounds through it on the Umarex site it says i should lube such and such points though it states that one lube point (Main Spring) the stock must be removed to lube. Is there anyway to lube this without removing the stock?

Also what is a good cleaning kit to use with JB Bore Paste (Rods, Nylon or Brass Brush...)I don't want to damage the crown or bore by using the wrong thing.

Also i had a question relating to pellet cleaning if i wash my pellets do i have to lube them for my 460? (Shoot CP)

A lot of questions here i know and all your help is truly appreciated. Just want to keep my
Diana going for years to come.

Field Target shooters do not clean their barrel's or so does Tim Gaylord says'

removing the stock is not difficult and you might clean and oil certain parts easier

instead of a cleaning rod, I use weed wacker plastic string, easy and not harmfull to the crown or barrel, just tie a knot and heat until it melts to form a noose put your cleaning patches and pull them from the breech

clean and lube your pellets?? If you want to but a crow or a squirrel will not notice the difference if you hit them cold dead

warren

PS: Justin, PLEASE tell me your 460 is in .22 cal PLEASE

and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

Are you the same Justin that was barely 16 two years ago that had a remote-bulked QB?? If you are, good! if not, welcome anyway. Dianas are wonderful guns and spring guns are very very interesting!

Putting 1,000 rounds through a 460 in a month would tell me you are young indeed, and some of your questions are related, so let me give you MMHO on the subjects:

Crosman designed the Premier to use a harder alloy, about 5% antimony, so if you fire Premiers a lot at the high speeds afforded by the 460, you might need to clean your barrel more often, there is a way to delay/avoid this, but that comes later. You mentioned CP's only, not a variety of CP's, therefore I must assume your 460 to be a .22"

Washing your pellets is just one part, the first part. You really need to lube them, and especially if you shoot CP's. Some people like Teflon, some people like Krythech, I prefer Pledge. It dries up, does not pick lint nor dust and is freely available in almost any house. Pledge/Blem is indeed a superior lubricant for pellets, you just need to oven-dry them or blow-dry them and make sure that the film is even and dry. If you lube your barrel you will not need to clean it except once a year or so. If right now your barrel is dirty/leaded, you can use Goo-Gone to clean it. There are some special Kleen-Bore patches that are specially formulated for lead removal, if you try them, you will need to disassemble the gun as the patches need to be driven from the breech with a good cleaning rod and only in the breech to muzzle sense.

The same applies to JB bore paste, unless you want to use the process I described as "Fire-Lapping" in a thread below.

A length of weed-whacker is good as a pull-through with Goo-Gone for cleaning, but it will not perform its job with JB adequately. You really need a rod or the Fire-Lapping procedure. If you decide to clean with a Pull-Through, make sure you use a crown protector, it can be a simple drinking straw type tube that fits into the muzzle and protects the crown from the rub of the pull-through, but you do need to use something.

If you decide to buy a rod, buy the best rod you can afford, it will be one of those things that go along with you your whole shooting life. A Parker-Hale or a Dewey will do the best jobs, get it in the appropriate caliber and either make sure they are stainless steel or plastic coated and bearing equipped, so they turn in the handle. You will need a good brass jag and patches to apply the JB correctly.

HTH



Un Abrazo!




Héctor