I am wondering if you had a chance to do the chop and choke on your RWS 46.I'm hoping you Chrony the before and after numbers.
And how do you plan to choke the barrel.That has always been a mystry to me.Although I did manage to do one on a chinese B-2(test barrel) with a large pipe cutter,I'm still fiddleing with it though I been counter boring and recrowning because I got it to tight.Just a little at a time then run it thru the chronagraph.I'm watching for the numbers to go up.

BBGun Bob
Been a month or so since I messed with it.Been rebuilding an old Crosman 140 Pumper,when its done I plan to redo the stock on my FWB 300S.


Springers are Neat! One Shot One Bullseye!

Howdy BBGun Bob,
I am still waiting for the 46 in .22 to arrive.
So during the wait I have been checking on this mysterious
subject of chocking and have found several avenues to doing it., I have been in the thoughtful innovative mode,but nothing real inventive yet has come of it.
The first method to chock that has merit is one I found on
Grant Stace forums out of kiwiland.Check this out.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/575762/thread/1203561283/My+first+attempt+at+choking+a+barrel
Looks interesting.
got to go to work will continue from there.

Sylvan

Ya know it's kinda frustrating using differnt computers I got
articles saved in differnt ones. never seem to be at the right terminal.
I realize that pictures are so much better than words.
I found a method by some enterprising airgunner that went like this.
he first ran a pellet thru the barrel pushing from breech to muzzel noting all the tight spots with a new pellet, marked his barrel at the tight spots, then determined where he was gonna cut the barrel nothing shorter than 10"
he then proceeded to thread the outside of the barrel about 1 to 1.5 inches
long with a pipe thread, he then internal threaded a nut with same thread size
remember pipe threads are slightly tapered, he then tread the nut onto the barrel lightly a first either shooting or pushing a slug thru the bore and measuring it.

The advantage of his method was two fold, he could hide the threaded portion
with a muzzel break that just screwed on or could just make a threaded end piece to hide the outside screw cut on the end of the barrel.

The other method was equally well thought out. this fella machined a split nut hardened, that he placed over the barrel in a heavy vice and torqued measured torqued measure.

Last but not least I'll send the barreled action to Paul Watts and let him do his Magic.
In the meantime I sit and wait for 46 to show.

Sylvan

Continueing.

Ok found one post with pic.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1187799723/A+while+back+I+posted+about+using+a+bored+bolt+head+to+choke-----------

I crown using Brownell's tools first cut with hack saw, then true the cut
and face it with a 90° cutter then decide if its gonna be a regular crown or an 11° crown and use that tool. I use a brass pilot and do it by hand. I like 11° cause it protects the muzzle real well.

If I find other post with pics I will post them.

Sylvan

Hi Sylvan,

GREAT find on the split nut & vice article....that is something that is reasonable and totally possible for serious DIY airgunsmith to do.

I use a "stand up" 20 ton hand actuated (pumped) Meyers hydraulic press that I already had, but cheap ones can be found for dirt cheap at Harbor Freight or the like for under $100.

I used 2 pieces of 3x3x3/4"long solid box stock 1050 steel and bored a 15mm hole through one of the pieces and a 16mm hole through the other. I took them to a buddy who does precision waterjet cutting as his business and had him split both pieces down the center line of the bore axis. I milled another .0078 (about 1/128”) off each of the common “facing” edges of each set of blocks for a bit of further reduction to the diameter of the holes and to smooth things up. I hardened them in a furnace that a buddy's dad uses for case hardening retaining pins for attaching accessories to Bobcat tractors/backhoes/etc

Having a dedicated 15mm and 16mm set of 1” choke blocks makes things go quick as now I just put them around the barrel of a gun, flush with the end of the muzzle spanning 1" back and can choke 15mm or 16mm barrels with less than a full stroke of the handle on the hydraulic pump on the top of the press. If somebody requests that there be less than 1” of choke, just move the blocks out past the end of the muzzle leaving the desired length of the barrel in the blocks….very cool!

I have fired .22 cal Kodiaks, JSBs and CPs into the deep end of my pool and recovered it to check the rifling groves in the head and skirt and found them to be very even and consistent with no abnormal distortion of the skirt.

Super fast and consistent...

Again Sylvan, finding that post with the pics will be a HUGE benefit to the serious DIY airgunsmith. GREAT JOB Sylvan!!!!!

-Curtis

Curtis,

Thank you for the kind words.

I have learnt quite a bit just reading your posts, you are a wealth of knowledge and you exhibit that rare humble quality
of being a mentor, a friend, an exceptional artisian in your
endevours.It is a rare Quality that you have, and it is much appreciated by those that you have touched.

This forum has an exceptional membership, possibly the reason
That I return often. A good place to hang my hat.


Sylvan