One subject I don't read much about in air guns is Stock bedding
all the work seems to be internal.



Sylvan

This is a very good question and one that I really don't have a straight answer for you here about, but most airguns or at least all that I own the barrels are never set in the wood and it is only the receiver that is bedded. Most all of the German made airguns that I have ever owned seemed to have very well fitted stocks to the action. If you were to build a stock or buy a aftermarket DIY stock the bedding might be in question and I guess it could be then glass bedded to make shure it fit exact when you got done. Other than this I have not heard nor read so far of people bedding the stocks on the airguns so far.

Sylvan;

I have often mentioned that the torque of the stock-screws needs to be "tuned" in airguns. In my experience, it makes a difference even when changing pellet. And in my experiments, three screw stocks are more sensitive than two, or four, screw stocks (meaning that breakbarrel rifles are mostly more sensitive than side-lever cockers or underlever cockers).

I have described several times the process, last time not too long ago here in a post to Johannis.

I think the stock in an airgun is more than a handle or part of the structure that holds the barrel pointing towards a certain place, as in firearms. Stocks in airguns contribute the most to accuracy as harmonics dampeners.

Just "fiddle" a little with your stock screws and you will see how important it is to get this aspect "just right" when you reach for max accuracy.

We could discuss the process again, but perhaps someone else should do some experimenting and come with fresh data to the table.

JMHO

Un Abrazo!




Héctor

I had a 52 here that would not group, no matter what. I tuned it a couple of different ways, re-crowned the barrel, lots of things that can help the oddball rifle--but groups were still bad.

Out of frustration one day, I 'over-tightened' the heck out of the rear stock screw, and the groups finally tightened up--a lot!

It turns out that the receiver was not with the original stock, although I don't know if it would have made a difference.

In any case, my fix was to use a steel trigger guard off of an older RWS rifle (instead of the supplied plastic one that usually works just fine) and a conter-sunk, allen-headed screw, so I could torque it down real well. It shoots very accurately now. But, I bet that particular baby would have responded to a proper bedding.

There were probably harmonic vibrations being set-off by some misfitted area of stock and receiver that the extra-secure screw took care of it. But, I also told the owner to bed it if it gave him any more trouble--even a hint of it.

I'm outta here---Happy Shooting!

Ed

The Airgun Tune-Meister
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/ekreally/myhomepage/business.html


"We can rebuild the squirrel. Make him stronger, faster...We have the technology"---Skyler M.

I had a RWS 36 that would NOT group. Did all kinds of things. Put in Screw cups my MAC1 presto 40-50% group improvement but not yet great. The light went on upstairs and proceeded to glass bed the gun. NOW it groups with the best of my springers (AA, HW, Diana etc.) Took off the hold sensitive nature as well. DIFFerent gun

Interesting.

I know it works on powder burners.I realize that tweaking stock screws seems the prefered method for springers, but as Kevin mentioned it worked for him
So how come more folks don't do it?


Sylvan


S/SP