RedFeather (Login RedFeather) from IP address 96.231.42.46
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Just getting my HyScore 820 up and running. I've spent the last six or seven years, on and off, looking for sights and decided to scope it. Consequently, it's seen little use. So, my very basic questions:
This thing have an anti-bear trap safety? I'm careful with the loading lever, keeping it braced when cocking, but the scope makes it a bit awkward. (Having to work out another way to brace it and load left-handed.)
I take it these do not have safeties? Least ways, I don't see one. (Told you they were simple questions.)
My gun, circa 10 78, has the pink seal. I don't have a chrony, so what's a good way to see if they have deteriorated? Was told once that I would see bits of seal but I don't have a sheet spread out over the floor, so where would they show up, in the breech area?
My 75 has no safety. No anti bear trap thingie either. But I cock the rifle, put in the pellet and never give a thought to it closing on me. Maybe I should but I don't. Mine's also a 1978 vintage.
Just me. If there is no anti-bear trap and your trigger is like mine, I would restrain the cocking arm while loading. I do this on the 54, as well. Never know when you might have a mechanical failure. And these types will do serious pinkie damage. I'm already running on reduced body parts, as is!
Anyone know if the 75 has a trigger cut-out. That is, can it fire from an "open battery" position?
At least, my RW75 has them. The 'ladder frame' under the receiver with all the springs,levers, rods, etc., is there, by and large, to support safety devices.
Take the action out of the stock. There is a sheet metal 'ladder' underneath the receiver, running from the trigger block to the front of the receiver. Its HUGE!!! Lotsa gizmos on it. Automatic safties and interlocks.
I figured that, sooner or later, someone would clip a digit on the firing line if there were no safeties. As the old Soviet ambassador to the UN remarked, "Even monkeys fall from trees."
Hi Redfeather, I own a 75 also and though I have never taken it all apart yet I have studied the mechanism and there is a safety slide under there, in the original owners manuals or at least the one I have it makes no mention on safety or holding the lever in case it should let go, not to say something strange couldn't happen. I would think on most match guns in a match a person could not go through the kind of effort it would take to watch for this and these guns should be safe to just cock and load and close the breech on them. If your gun is still punching pretty clean holes in the heavy tagboard targets the seals are probably okay yet, I have seen the older ones and they usually crumble and when they start going the power is gone and if really gone they won't put a pellet out of the bore anymore. The Diana match guns are extremely fine guns out of all the older spring piston match guns I have owned I have shot the best targets with my 75, one single pellet hole targets at 10 meters, that is another thing also that might tell you is if the gun does not shoot real well the internals may need new seals.
I got to thinking about the bear trap after acquiring a 54. Even though that has an automatic engaging safety, I try to keep the lever secured when loading. Ditto on my tap loaders, since the cocking arm can do a number, as well.
As to one hole groups, only if I'm shooting into a hole to begin with. If the seals do go south, this gun is so nice, otherwise, I will get it rebuilt.
Last year I was to go shooting with Lee, in his neck of the woods. I couldn't make it (besides shooting airguns at a powderburner range isn't my cup-o-tea).
I've been searching out an airgun shooting place close to home. You know, a place you can drive to after work for a little plinking. Well, I'm still looking.
A stock will work - but you will want to turn it down. A stock seal for the 34,36,38,40,45,46,48,52,54,350 will work... but I found it to be a couple hundreths oversize. An oversize seal will slow this gun to a c-r-a-w-l.
From what I have seen all of the Giss match guns used the same seals, Jm sells the two seals in a set on his site, now the front seal is supposed to be the same seal or is the same part# as the 48/54 guns use the 300716. I don't have one on hand at the moment to measure but like Stepar is mentioning if the seals in one of these guns were on the tight side as light as the springs are in them it is going to slow the gun way down. Also better make a spring tool that the Diana shop manuals show as well to prevent spring damage.
