Hi,

Does anyone have any pictures or tips for dismantling the 350 magnum?

My .22 rifle is still pretty new but (since my previous post and repair on breech pellet loading issues) I have been shooting it quite a bit more often and I am noticing that there is quite a lot of spring creaking noise. It sounds like it is pretty dry inside there.

So, I want to take it apart and put a little of Mr. Maccari's "black tar" on the spring and the piston - when I did this before it made a huge difference in my Weihrauch HW80 to its overall cocking smoothness.

I have a homemade spring compressor (no worries there) and I have taken apart my Weihrauch HW80 several times before and I assume that the 350 Magnum is going to be a very similar deal.

I guess that means that I am really curious in knowing whether there are any special things to be careful about while dismantling the 350? Is it held together the same way? Pins for the trigger block etc... ?

Thank you!

Bob

The 2 pins hold the trigger group in as well as the compressed spring. The HW guns you can remove the pins and trigger before putting it in the compressor.

NOT WITH Diana's THE 350, 34, 36 etc. all need to go in the compressor first then tap out the pins then the spring pressure can be backed off and the trigger group will come out while you unload the spring. Take out the plastic safety part and a block of wood on the end of the trigger group works for me.

On older models with metal safety you need to make a hole in the wood block and then it goes in the compressor.

Addl tip. With these dianas I prefer to remove the barrel before vs. after unloading spring. It can be done by removing the e clip on the cocking arm link pin then removing the cocking arm then the barrel can be removed while the gun is still with spring & trigger group etc. This makes it easy to use a very short compressor as the distance from the front forks to rear trigger is less barrel.

Not to worry on barrel removal or install on Diana's as the breech block shims will lock in place when re installing. 10x easier than the HW shims! You will see them and understand 1000% when you do it. No worries.

The only real difficulty with Diana guns can be the trigger group on re assembly becoming misaligned.

Good luck. Diana’s are cake compared to the HW80 you did.

Thank you for this information - it was very helpful.

Best regards,

Bob

use two short pins that are the same diameter as the normal pins, but only hold the trigger together.

When the gun is assembled, tapping the normal pins in will make the "dumb" pins come out the other side.

I have used even wooden pins to hold the trigger group together, they do not have to be metal. If you are going to work a lot on your gun, then it makes sense to make them of metal.

HTH



Un Abrazo!




H�ctor

Yes I use pins as Hector explains as well but on the 350 and its T-05 it is not as necessary as with the older T-01 trigger that has more parts and is a bear to get back in. The T-05 is easy.

I'll post these photos for a while. They show the pins and my crude spring compressor.

Kevin

The 2 pins I show in my above pictures are custom made for the Diana trigger by me.

I bought a couple of steel drift punches for a $1 each in the discount box at Sears and took them to a Hard-Chrome platter I know. He electroplated about 0.009" Hard chrome on the pins that got the pins up to a few thou undersize the original RWS pins. This way they slide and back out like butter and hold the trigger together as if it were in the gun. Finally they were trimmed to length to bridge the trigger group but short enough to come out the receiver tube.

Kevin

As they say, "a picture is worth a thousand words"

And thank you!

Bob