What I mean, is there a way to know what's the optimal setting of the sliding action's recoil tension before/without test firing it repeatedly?
I have this RWS 54 for about 10 years now and just recently had time again to use it more often. It seems to have a lot of recoil. The action (the entire receiver/barrel) keeps sliding back and forth on the stock everytime I tilt the rifle up or down (I have a heavy scope on it). I can also move it fairly easily with my hand back and forth about 4/3 inches travel. It shoots accurate at close range so far, but I remembered the recoil being almost non-existent before.
I refrained from installing the o-rings on the slide rails as described in EC's site and left my adjustments pretty much stock. If your 54 is fully cocked it should lock in the forward position and not slide around until fired. With a Bushnell Elite 4200 scope mounted on mine, I can point my 54 straight up and it will remain locked. A very light tap on the butt of the stock will release the action and it will slide back. Upon firing in a normal position, my action will slide back but still have a small amount of travel remaining. Perhaps the sping loaded detents are not engaging the locking recesses in the recoil absorbing system? Did you place o-rings on the slide to prevent this? Maybe some debris or contaminant is plugging the locking recess? Personally, I don't feel the need to second guess the Diana engineers and start playing with the tolerances of the recoiless system they came up with. JMHO
Thanks for the info, I tend to agree that better leave as it was engineered. I have not adjusted the tension springs yet nor have I taken the stock off yet to modify the recoil with the O-ring.
I will try to take off the stock and check the condition of the recoil mechanism, clean it if needed, and try to set the tension screws as to stop the action from sliding while still allow for recoil action.
If you remove the gun from the stock, you need to tighten the screws down to the point when you cannot move the sledge by hand any more. Then come back 1/4 turn. Test.
If the gun slides rearward on its own without you moving it, then tighten it 1/8 of a turn. Test again.
Repeat process till gun does NOT slide back when pointed up. The correct position is the MINIMUM TENSION point where the gun does not slide back on its own.
Thanks all, I was able to make the adjustments to the reoil. Recoil reduced by about 70%, still has some left. It either needs some fine tuning more,or it will never completely disappear.
What I read that RWS 54 recoil can never be 0% due to the nature of its design, will always be felt by the shooter. For some reason when I first purchased this rifle I do not remember any recoil seen in the sight picture after pulling the trigger.
Some details of the recoil adjustment: Took off the stock (2 minutes) and cleaned and reoiled the recoil sliding rails, cleaned the receiver, oiled the trigger. Reassembly was not bad either. once adjusted, will need to apply locktite to the stock screws.
I read in some other postings that chmaber oil is OK to use on the spring. I was hesitant to add any when I have seen a small portion of the spring exposed with the stock off. What do others think about adding some chamber oil to the rear 1/3 of the spring and let it work its way to the front and seals?
Oil is good for lubricity, alas, it is also a dust magnet. It will entrap any dust particule that gets into your gun's innards and work havoc there. So use very little oil.
The BEST lubricant for the outside of the spring is Maccari's Heavy Tar, and I would say that for the amount of work involved, a simple "lube tune" is probably the most profitable time spent in a gun. 80% of the advantages for less than 20% of the investment.
If you are handy and have a good pulse, use a toothpick to put some Moly paste between the spring and the guide (the inside of the spring). Use a loupe, and a light, you will be able to put a very small dab in FRONT of each spring turn that is visible in the slot. After that you cock (without locking) the gun several times and you're done on that end.
Chamber oil will do no harm if it gets into the seal area (which it will, as it is very penetrating), but the degree of lubricity at high pressure is very low, you will not gain much from that. Try the long toothpick with the moly and see how it goes.