Well, I've just finished up tuning my trigger. I cut one coil off the trigger return spring, and 1.25 turns off the sear spring. I used 400 grit sand-paper and lightly touched up the contact areas, being very careful just to smooth the surfaces. I followed that up by taking a Q-tip and some metal polish to give the contact surfaces a mirror-like finish. I just got the gun back together and took serveral shots. The trigger clearly breaks with less force yet is crisp and clean. Overall it feels really good, and judging by my Ruger's trigger which was measured right at 2 lbs. I'd say this RWS trigger is down to 2--2.5 lbs. or so, and was probably in the 3.5--4 lbs. range to start with.
A great, quick, and simple mod if you have some mechanical skill and pay attention to the details.
with the "mousetrap" spring getting it back in. also, his tune called for removing more from the main trigger spring. did you just not want to go quite that far? and the sear spring you removed more than he calls for.
No troubles with anything this time around. The first time I had to put the trigger assembly back together didn't go so well. I went to take the 3 pins out without knowing what to expect and everything just flew out. I was left with a handful of pieces with no idea how it went back in. After looking at everything I figured out how it went back together, and after about 15-20 minutes I finally had it. This time around I had my gun apart, springs trimmed, polished surfaces, and back together in 20 minutes.
As for the springs themselves, I took the same amount off from the trigger return spring (1 coil) and 1/4 of a coil less from the sear spring. The guy mentions in his guide that he ended up with a 1.5 lbs. pull which is a little light for my liking, and it's better to start small and cut more off if you want later.
i will be being conservative and causios as you were. one thing i will be doing is some polishing on a wheel being careful not to round any corners.
have you done anything about hte side play in the trigger? i don't think it influences trigger performance but it kind of bugs me.
do you like a longer or shorter first stage? when i first got mine the first stage was set very short. i lengthened it some. i find it more predictable that way.
I adjust my first stage to where it feels most comfortable. With too little or no first stage I feel my finger is extended too much at the breaking point so I lengthen it a bit. I haven't done anything about the side play, it bothers me quite a bit as well (thanks for reminding me). I think adding a shim, like a thin washer or something, to tighten up the spacing might work well enough. I think the play is also coming from the difference in diameter between the hole through the trigger itself and the pin that goes through it, but I'm hoping this is very minimal. I'll try a thin washer or something and see how precise I can get it.
There's not even close to enough play to add a washer, I think the play mostly comes from the difference in diameter that I mentioned above. Maybe somebody else has an idea but I think it will mostly likely be something to live with unless someone is machining custom metal triggers to very tight specifications.
i got the trigger pin out and removed the trigger. i then removed the pin that holds the sear. i then tried to remove the sear but can't get it out. i then tried to get the sear pin back in and had a difficult time lining it up under the tension of the sear spring. i finally got it back in. i think i will wait untill i get my macarri spring and disassemble the whole rifle. i think the trigger unit will be much easier to work on when the whole unit is out and i can manuever it on my work surface. its too cumbersome while on the rifle. for me at least.
It will be alot easier when you tear the trigger group out of the rifle. I can,t imagine working on it in the action. Too many springs and small parts. Go too Pyramid Air and go on the RWS parts section. Click on any part for a RWs rifle with a diagram. It,ll have a exploded veiw of the trigger group to use as a reference.
is that the sear spring provides the bulk of the triggers pull weight. shortening the spring can reduce this but i think a better solution is a spring of the same length and diameter but with finer wire. i am currently collecting a few ball point pen springs of various types and strengths. there is a lot of variation with these. these springs are all too long but can be adjusted to the right length. i think some fine tuning is possible here.
of course safety is paramount and too light a spring would be a big mistake. the other spring that may have some influence on trigger pull is the "mousetrap" spring. i don't think i would want to mess with that one.
there may be some potential here for someone in the aftermarket arena to put together a spring kit for these T05 triggers. a couple of sets with different
pull weights would be nice. on the other hand maybe this is an area where liability issues could reach up and bite the seller of a kit.
i also wonder if a very thin coat of moly grease on the sear surfaces would
be adviseable. the moly would penitrate the metal and give it long term lubrication.
If the sear does,nt latch properly it let go with the slightest bump. I can adjust my triggers down below 1lb when I tune them and its not all in the springs. I,d love to tell you but then my secret would be out and I,d have no business! You are on the right track though!
To those of you looking into doing some self-tuning to your trigger: It's not just about how light you can get your trigger pull. The majority of the "good-feel" my trigger now has is hardly from reducing the pull weight, but it came from the careful, light sanding and polishing of the contact surfaces shown in the guide Larry posted in his thread "new ball game". Doing this gives the trigger that smooth pull with a crisp break. And make sure you don't round any corners. Rounding may seem intuitive to smoothness...but this will most likely lead to a sloppy break-point let alone the danger of it.
Hi Larry; I can't give you any useful info because....
October 8 2008, 6:02 PM
I have been saving every little coil spring that I have run across for quite some time. So when I need to respring something, I get out my box of springs, and search for something appropriate.
