Do Ya think soldering or brazing (Brass) a shroud/muzzlebreak to a brl. would distort it enough to affect accuracy?? Ya shure got me thinkin on that carbine 48/52. Just want it PERMANENT!! Just seems to me that that kind of heat (Brazing) concentrated on such a small section of the brl. would wreak havok on accuracy?? Just wondering. Tim. P.S. Im shure others here may have answers as well,,did not mean to exlude anyone. Its just that Hector & I seem to have the same idea for a nice quiet carbine 48!!LOL!!

Im in Alabama on my Moms "Puter" folks,, she is on dial up,,,, Man I cant wait to get home to my own "Puter"!!!!!!! This puter does crazy stuff!! Tim.

if you find you would rather not use heat then i think J.B. Weld is up to the task. we use it to attach nickle silver ferrules to bamboo fly rods. over the years these ferrules are placed under a lot of stress with the repeated flexing of the bamboo to metal interface. this stuff is so strong that the only way to remove a ferrule after using it is to machine it off. the tensile strength and shear strength of this epoxy is exceptionally high. even high heat will not break it down. this material is an option if Hector indicates not to apply the heat as in brazing.

"Old Tim": how is the experience with the Dampa ? I am still curious to what you think about this mount and on which rifle it's fitted ? Best regards from Johannis.

heating that barrel up to brazing tempertures may change the metallurgical properties of the steel barrel. didn't we have a similiar discussion in another place?

Been terribly busy, sorry for the delay.

Steel changes crystalline structure at around 725 °C IIRC (eutectoid temperature).

Brazing takes place at between 400°C and 750°C, depending on the metal used to braze, therefore, it really depends on the metal you are using.

I guess that if you can ensure that the material you are using to braze is the low liquidus ones, like the low temperature Easy Flo's described here:

http://www.handyharmancanada.com/TheBrazingBook/section%203/Part%202-3.htm#Cadmium-Bearing%20Filler%20Metals

you'ld be OK.

I would personally use Easy Flo 45 and keep REALLY GOOD eye out for the melting point of the wire!

IF you want to be on the safe side, use Braze 053; not the same strenght of joint but if the fit is good, you should not even need the braze, except for legal reasons and only in the US.

The reference included has % of chemical composition, so as long as you meet the same alloys, you can be almost certain that the melting temperature will be the same. Now, here we are talking about EXACT compositions, not similar!

The JB Weld solution seems a really good one. I've used it to glue barrel liners, so I am sure it has the wherewithal to stand the stress, even though in the mod'or it is a tension stress and in the liner it is a compression stress.

I guess I would make it a point to use TWO bands of brazing and ensure that the mod'or is a reflex design one that uses the cavity formed in the BACK of the muzzle so as to maximize efficiency and effectiveness without adding too much length.

Study the devices in this link:

http://www.brtuote.fi/

While at it, make it a point to make a cleaner-tube, which you can use to pass a pass-through by the baffles in the mod'or without tearing the patch and contaminating your mod'or.

Drop me an Email or post here, I will eventually have a few minutes to peep in here! LOL!



Un Abrazo!




H�ctor

that the muzzel brake was brass. i was wondering about the process of brazing brass to steel. seems like the brake might melt right along with the brazing rod.

n.t.


Un Abrazo!




H�ctor

Tim,
Being a retired welder I know a little about this subject.
Cold solder(plumbers use this) the same type used on your hot water tank water pipes will melt at between 450-600 degrees(depending on lead and tin content).You will need some self tinning flux to tin the(steel) barrel before putting the 2 pieces together.Both metals will have to be super clean(sanded) before applying flux.You will not need to tin the brass first as it will take solder very easy if clean when heat is applied.
The second method would be silver solder.This is very tough stuff with a melting temp at around 1150 degrees.You will also have to clean the metals very well with sand paper,use silver solder flux and map gas or Oxy-Acetelene to get parts up to this temperature(propane/butane won't work not hot enough).
I think you have my ph number if you have any questions about this you want answered just give me a Hollar.

Best Regards
BBGun Bob

Darth Vader Called !! I joined the Darkside!!
.22 Disco

just a note:

You talk in °F, I talk in °C.

Lest someone get mixed up I thought it was important to clarify.

Keep well!



Un Abrazo!




H�ctor