34 T01 Trigger Adjustment?December 4 2008 at 5:46 AM
REARSPROCKET (Login REARSPROCKET)
from IP address 126.96.36.199
Hey everyone I have an older 34 Sport that has the T01 trigger but the screws are smaller and have smaller heads than the 54 T01 trigger? Does anyone know what the adjustment procedure is for this trigger? The factory manual just says not to touch the front screw and the rear one adjusts trigger pressure? I have a long first stage now that I would like to shorten. Thanks
Re: 34 T01 Trigger Adjustment?
|December 4 2008, 2:18 PM |
i hope never
|December 4 2008, 2:21 PM |
to have to deal with a T01 trigger.
|December 4 2008, 2:51 PM |
Is that second post by JeffM correct?
He, He, YES!.....
|December 4 2008, 3:10 PM |
I have adjusted dozens of TO1 triggers. (well, close to a couple of dozen anyway)
This is all you need to understand this trigger!
|March 28 2010, 3:06 PM |
Just what I was looking for. Ultimately, I screwed stage one screw (one closest to muzzle) home, and backed out stage 2 screw until I was satisfied with the pull. Keep your hand on the barrel or if you have a RWS46 or 48/52, on the lever and pull the trigger - DON'T LET the barrel or lever swing free or you'll damage your rifle and perhaps yourself.
we used that first link ,
|December 4 2008, 3:03 PM |
on a RWS48/52 recently with nice results, a light 1/16" first stage and somewhere around 1-1/2lb second stage (that I would'nt call crisp but it do-able). Give it a try you can always still back the screw out for a long first stage.
|December 4 2008, 4:52 PM |
I have modified a few trigger blades so that the first screw could be screwed in further, but doing so reduces the amount of sear engagement.
My 36C is DANGEROUS with the front screw screwed in very little more than the stock maximum. It will bump off. (Most Diana's are not like this).
I don't feel right suggesting that others adjust their trigger to have less than full sear engagement (short first stage); I don't want to feel responsible for gun damage or shooter injury.
Most of the time the second stage will adjust completely out without any mod done to the trigger blade. If your second stage isn't crisp, you need to turn the rear screw counterclockwise until it is.
|December 5 2008, 5:57 AM |
Jeff That sear engagement issue is what I was worried about. This is an old style T01 it has the narrower adjustment screws about 1/2 or less the size of the 54 screw head size. Have you seen this style? Also I would like to make this trigger the best it can be without the bump fire issue. What is the best way to shorten the long first stage,and have a crisp second?, turn in the 1st stage or front screw? Also without disasembling the rifle how can I check for proper sear engagement? I am not a novice with triggers just with this style. Thanks
Old Style T01
|December 5 2008, 10:01 AM |
Jeff just got done adjusting and found out this one doesn't need the trigger mod at all it has more than enough adjustment to over adjust the first stage without the screw head bottoming out on the trigger. I adjusted 1/2 turn in on both and ended up alot better but the second stage needed 1/4 more in to remove some creep in it. The first stage screw is very senitive and if adjusted slightly more it goes to almost no take up and unpredictable let off. So now the trigger is much better with a shorter 1st stage and a crisp second. I banged on the rifle with the safety off to check sear engagement and no let off I will check safety on and pull trigger then release safety and see if it lets off on release of safety tonight. Seems good to go! Thanks for your help and if there is some other easy way to check the sear for enough safe engagement let me know? Thanks again
|December 5 2008, 10:13 AM |
Also Jeff adjusting the second stage screw out lengthens the first stage and increases creep on the second? This is how it worked out of me.
|December 5 2008, 2:11 PM |
The models Models 24-26-28-34-36-38-45 are equipped with an adjustable set trigger as standard. Both the first pull and the trigger pull are already factory adjusted.
The screw 1 (Picture C) should not be touched. It is used only for factory adjustment.
The trigger pull can be adjusted with screw 2 through the hole in the trigger guard 3.
Turn the screw clockwise for a crisper pull.
Turn counterclockwise for a softer pull.
Turning the adjustment screw 2 too far to the left will cause the second stage to be eliminated, resulting in the shooter not being able to feel the firing point.
Not really a set trigger
|March 28 2010, 3:15 PM |
I think you meant a trigger set by the factory, not a set trigger. A true set trigger has a spring loaded internal lever which is cocked or "set" by pulling an individual trigger or pushing forward the single trigger. This lever is activated when pulling the second or single trigger, swinging up to hit the sear.