HI to all,

I got the used RWS-48 today and it appears to be a good buy. The only thing I find I don't like is the cocking lever will not stay closed when you turn the gun with the lever down. It comes away from the stock about 2 to 2 1\2 ".

I have a RWS-52 and when I compare the two the 52 starts putting pressure on the cocking rod at about the 2&1/2" spot from full close, and continues to apply pressure on the rod as it is closed, slightly flexing the rod (bending) overcenter applying enough torque on the rod to take it past center (no bend) to a reverse bend. This puts pressure on the cocking lever keeping it up tight against the stock.

It looks like to get the same results with the 48 all I have to do is take the pin out where the cocking rod attaches and adjust the rod longer. Am I in the right ball park with this thinking?

Thank You,
Mike

Try one full revolution at a time. Make sure you get the washers back in the right places on the lever and you,ll be fine.

seems too much to me.

I find that adequate sealing is obtained when the lever makes the piston make contact at about 1 1/2" from the stock.

Some levers also have nuts to fine tune the adjustment.

Once adjusted, lock-tite everything in place.

HTH



Un Abrazo!




H�ctor

I was just guessing, I eye balled it when I said 2&1/2' I will measure my 52 when I start to make the adjustments. So the tention is what seals around the barrel. I wonder if I should get new sesls for the 52 & 48.

Thank you John and Hector Mike

there is a chance the seal is now bad. changing it is a pain though. i find that it is easier if you take the rifle apart and take he compression chamber out to do it. a bolt that will fit in the seal opening when screwed in then pull it out. be careful not to screw it in too deep. you don't want to scre2w it into metal. mine was tight and hard to get out. once out the new one goes in
rather easily. i made a seal setter from a piece of 3/8 oak dowel.

Larry I agree with you that the seal is shot but it can be removed fairly easy and safely by first cocking the rifle and then fitting a safty block in the loading port so in the event of closing under spring pressure you will not lose a finger,then using a wood or sheet metal screw screw it into the seal grab screw head with pliers or wire cutting pliers and pry it out then place new seal in hole with thumb pressure remove safty block and using cocking arm to fully seat the seal.I used a 3/8 wood dowel rod for the safty block. Took about 5 minutes. Hope this helps and be safe,Gary

It's actually the air pressure what really and trully should seal.

If there is not enough pressure to correctly position the seal, then gas escapes through the weakest point and the temperature at which this air escapes is high enough to produce real "flame cutting".

Always keep a couple of seals handy, it's frustrating to have a US$500 gun in the rack because you are missing a US$3.00 bit.

JMHO



Un Abrazo!




H�ctor