I went to cock the gun, and it got about half way and stopped, I let up on it, tried again, still, then it worked. It still shoots just as accurately, but the stopping concerns me. I figure that the gun is dry, being about 4 years old and never having a inner lube/tune.
If it is something similar to that, how can I open up the rifle safely and operate? I don't have a spring compressor, but I have heard you can use a 2x4.
I have seen the 2x4 method in pictures but you need one person to hold it while you push out the cross pins, I did mine on a lathe using the tail stock to compress the end cap. Not the plastic piece. the end cap which has the trigger group attached will just clear the the end of the tube when the spring fully relaxes. be carefull of the little pins in the trigger group, they slide easily, the safety will come all the way out if you pull on it, but look carefully at the set up inside, one of the parts in tkhe safety may require some manipulation to reinstalle the safety. I found out the hard way about this but it was only about 45 seconds of looking and thinking to see what needs to done. A small lever may slide to one side one one of those cross pins, it needs to be recentered to get the safety back in. if you are very carefull it won't move so the safety bar slides back in around it. aside from that issue it is pretty straight forward. be aware that there is an "E" clip in the center of pin holding the cocking arm to the barrel. An old piece of hack saw blade with a wide groove ground in the end of it will push it off the pin slick as you please and helps with reinstalling the clip on the pin.
NONE of the pins on my rifle required a hammer to remove!!!
it really is pretty simple, and now is a good to time to replace the spring and seal with a maccarin Kit.
If lube will fix it, you don't have to take it apart
February 1 2009, 9:04 AM
RWS's have self lubricating pistons, so that is probably not the only reason it sticks (although lubing is usually always good). You can get some RWS chamber lube and RWS spring lube and just oil the chamber and spring without taking it apart. A better lube solution is to take the gun apart with some JM heavy tar for the spring and moly for the piston on hand. You can also see what, if anything else is going on in there when its apart.
T05 triggers are easy to take in and out. T05's require some finesse with a screwdriver or a punch to push the safety clip out of the way while you are putting in the pins; not easily done while someone is holding with a 2x4. John of PA has posted a pretty slick approach to a spring compressor using a Stanley portable work bench and a pipe vise.
More than likely your two drop plates in the trigger are dry and not moving out of the piston stems way. Common problem and will require you to tear the rifle down and dis assemble the trigger.Just going with the most likely!
I took some white lithium grease (I asked a couple forums and they said it was ok), using q-tips to dab it in, on the spring, then cocked the gun and got the rest.
I saw that it all lubed up after a couple 100 shots, now I haven't had the problem.
I would open her up and take a good look in there, you could have a broken spring. The 34s can break springs quickly some times, even after only a tin or two is very possible.