(Login papercutter) from IP address 74.186.215.128
Hello All,
Does anybody know how to take the absurd 1/2 MILE of travel out of this POS Trigger?!?! I have jerked around with the only screw available and I can get an acceptable let-off weight BUT only after a rediculous amount of travel. My Daystate X2 is utterly on a different Planet when it comes to the trigger! (It's a very Good Planet Too!)
I won't shy away from taking the main-spring, etc out of the gun to fully expose the trigger bits, but once I'm there what do you do to this thing that has all the finesse of a tresbouchet?!
there are some things that you need to do. remove the sear spring and the trigger return spring. cut 1.5 coils out of each. if you want to get brave
remove the rocker. stone the surface where the first stage adjustment screw contacts. polish the surface but be carefuil not to alter the contour. molly this surface. this will go a long way towards making it a lighter touch. the sear can also be worked but i will not attempt it nor should you. you can shorten first stage travel some now. be carefull though. you can turn that screw down to the point you eliminate the entire first stage and even effect sear engagement resulting in a single stage trigger that is dangerous. there are other things that can be done to this trigger like adding a sear engagement screw but i don't want to go there. in fact if i sell my gun i will remove that screw and put it back stock.
The screw you are talking about should have nothing to do with the pull weight of the trigger. You will have to take the trigger apart. Instead of cutting the lower lever spring, I suggest you change it out. Cutting it doesn't take away it's strength. This is where the research begins. You need a spring with less spring rate (lbs./in.). This is your own personal preference. Then polish both levers, not distorting their shape or edges. Then clean and lube everything and reassemble. Now to the screw. Back it out say 3 complete turns. Start firing and turning in 1/2 turn every shot. You will find what is good for you. This I will tell you. If everything isn't exactly right, it will not operate correctly. Don't expect to get this done in 10 minutes. I did a TO1 yesterday that took a good part of the afternoon from the gun fully assembled to shooting the first shot. The TO5 is a much nicer, easier trigger to work on that responds better to the tune. It is a lesson in patience. Lee
on my 52 i used a ballpoint pen spring with a smaller wire. i cut that spring slightly longer than the original spring. it worked very well. this is hit or miss though. on the 46 i cut the springs. also wordked very well. in fact my
46 trigger is in my estimation better than my 52 but i have a sear adjustent screw in the 46 that adjusts sear engagement depth.
the fact that the original spring has the same rate cut or not is not is like saying cutting a rifles main spring does not reduce power. if you reduce pre load you reduce power. thats what you do when you take 1.5 coils out of a trigger spring. you reduce the pre load and it lightens the trigger pull. still it is better if you can find a spring of the same lenght that has lighter wire.
...Simply remove the factory seer spring and install this one.
I have $75 in research finding this spring. So, it's like shareware. If you try it and like it, send me something.
Rob
These are precision springs... January 19 2009, 4:32 PM
Looks good! Might try it!
By the way, are there any trics to refitting that searspring?
I disassembled the trigger lately, from triggerblade upwards, and had difficulty reinstalling that searspring..
I have a 34 Panther. I was able to remove all of the trigger parts without taking out the main spring. I pulled the pins out and pulled the safety out of the rear. All of the important parts will come out. I stoned and mirror polished all surfaces that have contact with each other, I removed the small metal bar on the trigger that releases the sear and threaded a small screw through the trigger right next to the screw that is already on the trigger. The tip of this screw is polished and replaces the small metal bar that I removed. This will let you adjust the pull weight a little. Then, I put another screw into the safety mechanism, right where the little spring loaded part of the trigger touches when the safety is on. This screw can be adjusted to eliminate the over-travel. If this screw is too long, the safety won't work. I'm out of town right now and can't look at my gun while I describe it or take pictures, but I can when I get home if anyone is interested. My T05 is almost scary the way I have it adjusted. It has a short but definite first stage, breaks like glass with VERY little pressure, and has absolutely no over-travel. The "two screw mod" can be found online (can't find my link) but the over-travel screw was my own idea. I also replaced the springs with lighter ones, installed thin Teflon washers on the sides of the trigger to reduce side play and lubed everything.
it works very well. i stil have a bit of work to do. i used a half inch grub screw and i may change it to a 3/4" lenth. i also need to polish the tip that contacts the rocker. i am also wondering if the next size up from 4-40 would not be a better choice. what size did you use, chris? also, is it possible to do this mod on your metal trigger?
i notice that each time you change the first stage screw you need to re-balance the new screw. i think i have it pretty nice now.
Thanks very much for all the great advice. I will start my tweaking with these steps and see what happens. I don't have so much of a problem with the let-off weight as I do with the 1st stg. Travel.
It sounds like I may have to do the 2nd screw installation if I really want to reduce that significantly.
i was using a 1\2" 4-40 grub screw with a tiny little hex key to turn it. kind of difficult. i changed that out for a 3/4" 4-40 stainless screw with a small
phillip head. i rounded the point and polised it so it would be smoother.
i re-adjusted my first stage travel to be a little shorter than i had it before. adjusted the second stage sear engagement screw to have a distinct
break but very light. its just right now. very chrisp lettoff. what i did discover is that the difference between this "just right" adjustment and a situation where there is no distinct defference between first and second stage in just an 8th of a turn clockwise. it takes some trial and error to get it right. get it wrong and the gun goes off unexpectedly while you think you are still in the first stage. of course you can always adjust the other way and you will have a stiffer but very predictable trigger. its all a matter of taste. i will use this gun for field target so want a light trigger but very predictable. a hunter would want a stiffer setting i think.
