I'm not sure how thick the wood is on the bottom of the gun and don't just want to screw something in. Any specific bipods made for an RWS gun? Thanks for any help you can give me.
Springers don't think highly of fixed stands like bipods. They typically like the cushioning of a hand and a light hold so they can do their thing (like one of those big, semi modern artillary pieces that glides back and forward on their mount (not like the old ones on wheels that jump up in the air when fired!). So even if you were shooting a springer off sandbags, you would want to put your hand between the gun and the bag.
I use a set of shooting sticks with my 52 .22 cal. I have had excellent luck punching paper and ground squirrels with the sticks. I think they let it move a little more freely then a mounted bipod, but still help me with the side to side motion.
that is the bipod to buy for the 48/52 if you want to install a bipod on the 48 but
add weight to the 48 to settle it down, IE: muzzle weight, bipod, mount, scope and some lead weight to the end of the wood stock and the bipod will work
it is a combination of weight against the shooting platform
the 48 BLACK is 8.6 LBS
the 48 BLACK professional is 9.2 lbs
48 Black-Pro with other attachements will be easy 10 lbs, heavy?? YES but rock solid performance to absorb the firing cycle
warren
and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"
I mounted an original Diana bipod on my 54 lately.
since this rifle is recoiless this bipod works just fine.
This bipod has extendable legs, too.
Nevertheless, I would not buy that one again since this bipod is far too high for my purposes of novice sniping fun.
The old trick of using a sand filled sock to stabilize the rear end of the rifle simply does not work for me since there is no sock that would mount the sandpile high enough necessary to get a stable, clean shot.
Now I am a sockless sniper :D
Oh - I also had to remount the bipod after it had been fitted by the gun shop.
This guy munted it with the legs pointing forward when not in use.I was wondering and asking him why he mounted it that way.
"Because if the bipod is mounted that way you could still rest the rifle on wherever you want without its legs being in the way."
Plain bull.
First off the rifle looked really odd with the legs pointing forward.
Secondly while sooting the rifle without the bipod the rifle vibrated a lot more and made pretty much noise.
And lastly the legs should be able to move a bit backwards while adjusting and aiming with the bipod in use.
Anyway, I remounted it with its legs pointing backwards - and voilá!
MUCH better look, no nasty sounds, no disturbing vibrations.
But still way too high.
Maybe I should give it a try and saw off the legs a bit... dunno...
Get TWO long wooden dowels or squares; preferrably 3/4" diameter or side, whatever you find is OK.
Cut them at around 36" long. Sharpen two points.
Get a large rubber band and turn it to hold the two sticks together, then slide the twisted rubber band to where you want the pivot point to be. If you are too tall, then you may need longer sticks.
Hold the sticks in your non-trigger hand and put your thumb in between the sticks. This will open the sticks like a scissors.
Put the stick's points into the ground.
Now that the sticks stand by themselves, put your whole hand in the crotch of the sticks (no bad or double meaning intended here, ROFL!).
Hold lightly the gun and shoot.
Test different points of rest along the forearm in kneeling, sitting and, if you can, prone position.
Use a piece of tape to mark the correct resting point using your thumb or the ball of your palm as a reference.
If you practice a lot, you will see that shooting sticks work well.
And if you really want to become consistent, then once you have defined the exact position of the forearm in the hand, you can substitute your hand for a very soft leather "hammock" (drying chamois leather works well for this), cut the sticks, or even set them fixed with a nut and screw...
II
Alternatively, get a camera tripod, short and solid, it does not need to be high. Short and solid makes it better.
Get a short piece of 4" PVC water pipe, cut it open and heat it up with an old hairdrier or a heat gun.
Open it to receive the palm of your hand.
Glue a 1/4 UNC nut on the inside and make sure that the camera tripod attaches correctly to this.
Put some foamy or other hard rubber to cushion your palm from contact with the nut.
Put some polyurethane foam to make it even softer.
Now, adjust the height to the position you want to shoot. Put the palm in the cushioned "cradle" and experiment with different hand placements along the forearm.
Both these methods work well, one will work better for you than the other. Try them and see.