I have a couple of indoor pellet traps, but have always been looking for a way to have a better back stop. The indoor traps (or Outdoor) just do not leave much room for error. I went looking for a material that could be used. I have the little Indoor trap by crosman with the Ballistic nylon, and was quite impressed. I found this material on the internet.


http://www.ahh.biz/fabric_catagories/heavy_fabrics.htm?gclid=CJ2d3PKLiZsCFSAhDQodGFEZpg



Later I saw this quys use of the material for a backstop and concluded this is great! It seems someone could really make some money by designing something like this. Especially if portable.



Dave@vabch

Now on to some prototype testing!

You'll have to borrow Larry's chrony and Chris's super magnums to see what the limits are. I'm also thinking that you need to move the pellet catch pan further back and give it higher sides.....but then the testing will show if that's true or not.

i have been using Duct seal but its not practical for lager targets. also, it gets very heavy after absorbing a lot of led. my little 7x 10 office trap weighs a ton.

The Ballistic nylon is meant to stop firearm bullets. I shot my 460.mag before a detuneing into the little pellet trap that crosman sells.Even the thin Ballistic curtain they used acted very well under the 22. mag. The 1050 Denier Ballistic Nylon
Extreme Heavy Duty Fabric appears to be much more dense than the crosman trap. And remember that this is for a backstop only. Now look at the Crosman tent below (at a whopping $1800.00) and then think of a "mini" tent with the Ballistic nylon which is sold at $18.00 per yard, One Yard = 60" wide X 36" long (Approximately.) or you could buy in bulk sizes.



Anyway, I was thinking of putting together one with PVC as poles. Now, I am not good at designing anything and was hoping some one of the forum would take off on this. Any suggesting?

Dave@vabch

the question is since we would be using this mtl for a back stop in a target set up how does it hold up after hundreds of rounds hitting the same place ? Duct seal works of it just digs out a area where the bull's eye is but can be pushed back what will happen with either kevlar or a nylon product, I can get kevlar from my boat fiberglass supplier but it is made in a loose weve for polyester resin . howie

Howie, I doubt the Kevlar sold by the Boat dealer is The 1050 Denier Ballistic Nylon! Like I mentioned about the Crosman trap, where it uses a low grade screen as part of their trap firing each shot directly at the material and the material being used to slow the pellet down and before hitting the steel plate in the back. Even that material would take a lot of shots.I am sure the The 1050 Denier Ballistic Nylon is quite a bit more resistance. In fact you can go to the sight and see the different grades of the material and the The 1050 Denier Ballistic Nylon can handle firearm bullets and shrapnel . If you look closely at one of the pictures in the example you will see where he used two curtains. Besides, the back stop should now take that many shots unless you miss the main target quite frequently.

dave

Ok, here is a very simple design that works great! This little trap is very effective AND WORKS GREAT!. BUT SMALL! Taking a similar design and enlarging it could make a very great trap. As advertised the curtain works for thousands of shots, I went through a lot of tins shooting into this. The sell replacement curtains for something like 3 for $12.00 if I remember correctly. Even if you use this, buying the 1050 Denier Ballistic would be a tremoundous saving!







Dave@vabch

They sell those build it yourself models pretty reasonably. Maybe hang a sheet or two of the 1050 ballistic nylon in there? If it's robust enough do you really need the steel backstop? Seems like it would make for a quiet target.

I was searching a while back and came across someone who used old mud flaps from semi's. They are made from a very tough, reinforced rubber material, designed not to come apart after thousands on miles on the road. A couple of those as curtains might work. Big plus if you can find some with the chrome nude, too!

carpet remanents

cut them out into a 10" x 12' and stack them up, cheap and reusable but you cannot beat the duct seal

I have 4 traps, duct seal, plastic bags (stuffed) into a container, carpet strips and phone books they all work but the duct seal is way above them

Warren



and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

Casey, I have the Archer's pellet trap,and it works great! However I am looking for a design that will stop pellets in a much larger area. The Archers's works great, I even used in in a high velocity, magnum gun. The Duct seal as warren suggested is the best material yet, which I use in the the Archers. I even used duct seal and place it into small plastic food containers as my friend MZ showed me. They all work great and it cost little to scatter these plates throughout the yard. However, I am scared to use the small back stops like Archer's as they have a limited area to shoot at. To be safe, you need a back stop that will cover a much larger area. I once shot at my archers, and did not realize the scope was really lose and it missed the whole box! All it takes to make a deadly mistake is 1/8 of an inch. Redfeather made a great suggestion with the Mudflaps. Those combined with the Ballistic nylon might make a great back stop as well as Warrens suggestion of using carpet. With all this talk, the guy with the backstop in the pics above seems to have made the best possible back stop available for pellet gun shooter's, especially for indoor shooting.

Thank for all the suggestions
Dave

I made a trap from a old 12X12 metal game caller record player box that I gutted. I put a layer of mudflap in the back of and then covered that in a layer of ductseal. It also has a strap hinged lid that I also did the flap & seal process to so I could hang 2 targets.

The whole thing folds up and secures with two heavy duty latches and the handle that was on the box makes it easy to tote around. It's plenty big enough for me around the house. I don't concern myself with the weight. If I get too feeble to tote it around I'll get my grand-kid to do it!

I have a 150yd firearms range and a 25yd pistol range that doubles as a airgun range for sighting in and such at my river property just a couple of miles away from my house so the "serious" stuff gets done there anyway.

Is a cardboard box approximately the size of a newspaper folded in half. The box thickness is about a foot. I left about 1-2 inches of free space at the front (target side) by using a molded cardboard insert from some other packaging, and then filled the rest of the box solid. I put duct tape on the bottom to seal it up from sitting in wet areas. i've replaced the front cardboard several times because the stuffing starts falling out of the holes (the newspaper gets shredded up pretty good inside. I would guess there's 2000 pellet in it, mostly into a NRA target with five spots. I can move this target around on the face to increase the time between changing the front cardboard. As for pass throughs - no sign of it yet. I have been placing it on a plastic lawn chair this summer (the back serves as a secondary back stop if and when I get a pass through.)

Total cost = nothing! Is it a bit "low class"? Probably, but it does not attract too much attention from the neighbors. I'd love a shooting gallery set up in the yard, but I live in the "inner city" of a major metro area.

Also, my other back stop is a couple of old hay bails, two deep at 33 yards from the porch. A log sits in front of them with tin cans and plinking targets on it. If I miss, the hay bails stop the pellet.

Model48

For the longest time I had a box made to fit phone books inside.I made it out of 3/4 plywood 4 phone books deep inside.The shooting side was a hinged lid held shut with screws and a 5x7 in window cut in the midle.Soon after the first 100 or so shots, it was evident that just phone books alone wouldn't do.I emptied it and repacked first with left over scraps of wood, packed plastic bags ,two phone books and toped with pieces of some old carpet,all held tite in place with the lid. It took so many shots that at the end it must have weighted over 15 pounds. It even stoped my 22lr.
One day I decided to open it to get the lead out to cast some round balls for my flintlock and never put it together again(but that is another story).None of the pellets/bullets got as far as the scraps of wood, and I gess that because of the pressure of so many impacts the scraps had turn to sawdust.The phone books were kind of a dry dusty mess and the carpet another mess of fibers, but it was the initial pressure of the lid that kept everything together and the fibers of the carpet helped the inside shreded guts from coming out.
The one thing I liked about it was that it was very quiet compared to other traps, and it was used and abused for almost 3 years.

I have a cardboard box about 2 feet cubed. Stuffed it entirely with plastic grocery bags. I really packed them down then ducttaped it all in.

Stops everything unless hit at odd angles or right on corners. Barely makes noise too.