OK what does or doesnt everyone use on their compression cylinder inner walls after cleaning out and before installing piston with new seal. Light coat of Moly, compression cylinder Sil. oil, nothing at all only lube seal and piston? Thanks

i then put a light coat of molly on the back edge of the seal and about 3/8" of the piston back of the seal. no lube on the front of the seal. i then insert the piston in the chamber and push it all the way forward. i lube the
bulge at the back of the piston as well with molly. when i have assembled the gun i work the lever back and forth without cocking a few times. this spreads a little molly on the tube walls but the piston seal acts like a squeegee preventing any or very little from getting in front of the seal. now i can start shooting it in. this process will spread a light coat on the cylinder walls. while you shoot it the lube will warm and splash on the cylinder walls.
(not sure how i know that since i am never inside there while this is happening)

for me. Although, I've never taken the works apart...I'm just following instructions and figure I cant go wrong that way.

I spray non chlorinated brake cleaner through the transfer port to blow everything out the back and once dry re-lube the same as Larry.

Happy Canuck

I use a split dowel with a clean piece of cotton T-shirt and a small dab of moly grease on it. Chuck the dowel up and run it up and down the whole tube for about 5 minutes rubbing the lube into the walls of the tube then with another piece of clean T-shirt wipe the excess off, the moly will have worked into the walls of the tube and the lube the seal and piston as mentioned in one of the other posts. Want to make sure there is someting on the walls to lube the seal as it slides in...

mailto:flyingdragonairrifles@hotmail.comhttp://www.airgunartisans.com/flyingdragon/

Some say moly lightly spread around inner comp tube with more added on piston, some say silicone oil or grease lightly spread inside tube with moly behind seal and tail of piston, some say dry comp. cylinder with moly on piston and seal only, these are the parts in the road. I just want to have some rust protection without out over lubing or getting the wrong lube infront of the seal.

I am in the camp that NO oils or any MOLLY in the tube until its shot and spreads around. Just a tad bit on the rear of the seal and rear of the piston . (a TAD ) It will get on the walls as you shoot it . The seal should act like a squeegee and remove it after each shot. I do not use Grease but only molly past for gear box from Honda. I do not tune like others but others do not have guns that do what mine can !

Funny thing, afew days ago I decided to try something different.On my D52 I cleaned everything with solvent and left it squiky clean.After that I sprayed the inside of the compression tube with dry moly that I got from Canadian tire.After everything dryed I aplied just a bit of moly paste to the back of the seal and reasemble everything.First few shots showed NO dieseling at all.Can't say yet if is good or bad 'couse I haven't shot it enough.Only time will tell.

My method is a little bit of all.

I use the tip of my index finger dabbed with Chamber lube to spread a very thin coat ON the piston seal lip.
Molly on the rear of the piston, where the bulge rides on the action.
A LITTLE moly on the rear of the piston seal.

Yes, the seal is like a squeegee, but you help it a little by putting some lubricant ON the lip.
Just what stays in the tip of your index finger will be more than enough.

HTH



Un Abrazo!




H�ctor

not because it is Hector but because Howie1 from the GTA forum did one of my M34's and

he disassembled it and cleaned out ALL the moly, grease and oil

he deburred and polished everything and started to assemble the parts toghether one by one with a DAB of oil, moly and grease whereever it needed

right in front of my eyes

he maybe used 1/2 onze in the whole air-gun but in the right places and proportion

you use moly for friction in a 1 stoke air gun and 5 quarts of oil in your auto

warren

Thanks Mike and everyone, I just finished my first underlever tune, and I basically went with a very light coat of JM's moly inside comp. camber rubbed into place and it worked out sweet with no dieseling at all. What I learnt from this one due to an over sized piston seal, is properly fitting the seal OD size to comp camber ID size and the proper lube and amount is critical to excellent fps. Thanks RS

This brings visions of a JM tesla seal on a 460. What did you really tune and what kind of excellent fps did you achieve?

First I have four Dianas, and no it was an HW and a Hornet seal.