I have big plans for this sweet lil shooter. I started on the stock today but have much shaping/sanding & some more Walnut to add to it. I got a few other things Im gonna do to the stock that should make it REAL nice!! With only a couple hundred rounds shot thru this bone stock $99 Ruger Air Hawk it is already smooth, powerfull & dead nuts accurate. The power plant will be getting the FULL works. The brl. will be chopped,re crowned choked. It will be sporting a full lenth brl. shroud with some special "Bling" & will contain some "stuff" in the last couple of inches in front of the brl. I got a long ways to go but I got a little done today. "Old Tim". [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]
What method did you use to remove the finish? I have a beat up beech-stocked Webley Vulcan that I'd like to fix up and I hear a lot of different things about stripping/sanding/finishing beech.
Sorry for the late reply. I dont use chemical strippers anymore,, too messy & they dont remove the stain anyway. I simply sand off the finish & stain. (On stocks without checkering) Im pretty handy with an orbital sander after using them for over 40 years. Just remember if you are not so used to it,, try & keep the sander flat as much as possible on the broad areas of the stock,, on the inside & outside surfaces you will have to sand on "edge",, in both cases keep the sander MOVING!! Dont let it stay put in one area too long or you will sand in goudges & lines that will be dificult to correct. STAY away from "crisp" lines & edges on the stock. Flat wood blocks wrapped in sand paper as well as assorted sized wood dowels wrapped in sand paper work well to. You can buy soft sponge like sanding blocks kinda like they use for sheet rock also but dont get them,, I buy them from Wal Mart in 180 fine gret & they are great for contors & rounding off. Hope this helps,,,, "Old Tim".
Tim, I have heard that the Chinese have developed the Air Hawk without the droop issues common on the 34. Did you find this the case? Did you place a JM kit in the gun? Keep us posted.
do not add a metal top hat, recoil becomes much worse. the spring can be spaced about .4 inch if needed....the piston liner is much softer than the 34's and will bend, with a properly fitted top hat and rear guide it can be removed.....most rifles in .177 will require the use of heavy pellets to keep velocity down. They tend to shoot in the high 900's in .177 with anything less than 9 gr.
I have not done a thing yet to the power plant/trigger or brl. (Yet,, ) It does not seem to have any real droop issues that I noticed. I just mounted the stock little scope to mess around with it before I began working on it & it seemed to be close to op. centered. It only took me a few rounds to figure out this gun was worthy of a full makeover!! I will be out of town for a few days but I will keep the updates comming. Tim.
Thanks for the E-Mail Buddy. It sounds like you got it under control!! Best of luck to you on the project. If I can help in any way dont hesitate to ask. Tim.
Any suggestions on removing what appear to be dark/blackish spots on the stock? Looks like what might be old water and/or mildew. They are still present near where there we gouges or dents. Maybe bleach? Something else? Sanding is not removing them (unless I were to gouge it out of course).
Tim, that gun sorta reminds me of my C1, a great carbine and one of favorite guns to shoot. How much do you figure that gun weighs? Isn't it a light gun?
What is its finish?
Is it rubbed down and polished, or chrome plated perhaps?
Either way, it compliments the gun nicely and looks great.
My compliments to you Tim on the excellent woodwork. The different wood used at the extremities of the stock really set it apart.
Makes a plain Jane look like super Jane when she's all dressed up!!
Well done.
D