I'm about to tear down and install a Macarri tune kit in my son's RWS34.Is it better to remove the barrel to remove the piston for a seal change or the pivot arm?I can't find a thing anywhere for info.Considering how crude this is from the factory if it's not better after it's gone.........Thanx Harold
Aparently there's an eClip you need to take off, so if you are daunted by that, you may go for the barrel. The arm slides right out of the piston once you have positioned it at the keyhole in the tube.
Mini pliers from the back end (usually doesn't work)
A piece of metal the thickness of the access slot with a notch cut in it the width of the pin. Push or lightly pound it with the two legs of the eclip pointed at the "tool".
Barrel Screw -
I have a KD hand impact wrench (screwdriver)that I use for those type of problems.
The hardened steel piston head has scoringon the bottom rimin line with the cocking slot.meamwhile the rest is polished clean so something is dragging?Should I be polishing the piston head itself or the slot inside the compression tube?PS dry as a bone internally maybe 2000 pellets through it.....................Harold
How's the cylinder where the piston seal rides? That is what you may need to polish/hone if it has issues. If the piston is rough, polish it. Debur around where it looks like it might have been dragging. You should use moly behind the new piston seal and at the rear of the piston skirt (as well as the ends of the mainspring and the outside of the guide). Hopefully you got some of that in addition to the JM heavy tar.
The face has one small ding [looks like a centre punch ]more likely a piece of loose metal.So I'll polish this out and the rim scoring.I talked to a tuner and will hone the cocking slot as he figures this is where it all started from.As well he mentioned that the BAM rifle clones he's worked on are better finished than either the Dianas or RWS.BAM may be making a B28 in .25 in the near future.RWS 350 clone........................not impressed with this gun so far...............Harold **** I have both moly and tar
Turns out the crown was crap and had to be redone the slot for the cocking arm was rough and had internal protrutions that scored the piston face.As well the factory spring was umpteen different diameters per coil.Smooth like 20 miles of washboard on a uni-cycle! Good news after installing Apex seal and GRT Macarri kit and filing sanding and polishing it shoots like it should have before being sold....................Harold
I have experienced five 46's, one 460, and one 300r and not one of them had serious burring. Maybe a few sharpe edges around the cocking slot, but some were smoothe. A couple of them have a metal on metal feel when cocking, but I've never found any wear attributable to that.