Newbie to this forum -- have a new (five years old-been in the closet) Di 34 on the way. Iron sights only so need a crash course in "droop" and scoping for it.
Please point me in the right direction for an "education" on barrel droop as related to the 34. All help appreciat4ed.
I have one they screwed up and didn't put it in...look along the side of the rifle and see if the barrel does hang down on the muzzle end, if the barrel is in line with the reciever tube then it is one without...
This one from Hawke (HM17021) will work with the low rings and is a little lower than the Leapers. It is adjustable and has a stop that will fit over the front of the rail.
http://www.hawkeoptics.com/us/mounts/bases.php
Finally had a chance to try to answer your kind offr=er of help. The question is which UTG mount to buy in order to have maximum adjustment of scope when mounted.
This is a "new" old rifle. Been in someones closet for about five years.
Eyeball indicates a slight droop. I consider this rifle NOT broken in. Estimate less than 75 shots based on remainder of the tin the gun was started with.
Also consiider I am 76 years young, and eyes not too good. I USED to be a pretty good small bore shooter. In other words I ain't new to shooting, know about sight pictures etc, and am learning rapidly about springers. I now own three, and just sold my Whisper. This 34 is to replace that gun.
Comments: Feels "dry" - rather twangy and more apparent recoil (may be lack of butt pad?), compared to MM tuned B26-2 22 that I love to shoot.. As of today I have only shot about 30 shots or so through this 34 myyself.
Distances measured.
Open sights -- (RWS original) Adjusted all the way DOWN.
Flimsy table rest, Forestock on palm , resting on bag rest.
10 Yds: 3 shot group; 2 5/8 inch low; 3/4 inch ctc.
20 Yds: 5 shot group; 5 inch low based on mean center of group; 1 1/4 inch ctc.
30 Yds: 5 shot group; 7 1/2 inch low based on approximate mean center of group; 1 3/4 inch ctc
you have a M34 and need help with the "Droop" issue, here we go
what kind of droop do you have?? the 34 has a 19.5" barrel
do you shoot 10, 20, 30, 40 yards and what do you hit at those distances 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1 1/2/?? CTC
first things first and find your specific droop in YOUR M34, not all have the same droop, you have to find yours before you scope it
shot the 34 at these distances and find out your droop before you mount it because there might be an EASY fix with a small droop
I have a closet full of the M34's and NONE have the same droop, one mount will NOT work in another M34 and some (REPEAT) some are AAA++ ok others are notorious bad on the droop issue
find out your DROOP before you scope it and to find out you will have to shoot it at different distances
post again with specific's and the 911 call will be answered
warren
PS: or E-Mail me for other solutions, but you still have to tell me what CTC that 34 shoots'
and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"
10 Yds: 3 shot group; 2 5/8 inch low; 3/4 inch ctc.
20 Yds: 5 shot group; 5 inch low based on mean center of group; 1 1/4 inch ctc.
30 Yds: 5 shot group; 7 1/2 inch low based on approximate mean center of group; 1 3/4 inch ctc
Fuller:
3/4" at 10 yards
1 1/4" at 20
1 3/4" at 30
this means the droop is not that exagerated in your M34, I have seen some really BAD droops ones
regardless of the pellets used the droop is what it is in your M34 and it will not change, your ctc might change with some brands of pellets but not the droop in your M34
get a Leapers 1 pc. mount and an air rifle rated scope that you feel will be appropiate for YOU to shoot
I would start with a zero of 10 yards and work yourself up to 20 after that it will be the holdover effect with a mil dot scope
just make sure you shoot the same brand of pellets you have found that your M34 likes
in .22 I like to shoot paper with the Gamo Hunter Doomed pellets 15.something in grains since they are chaep and fairly good ones
crosman CP's and RWS doomed are also OK in my M34's
warren
and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"
Brl droop OR,,,,, what is comonly refered to as brl. "Slap" (Oposite of droop) can be addressed quite easily. In the case of "Droop" I would recomend one of the new mounts or scope shims. Extreeme cases of either however can be dealt with most decicevly!! "Old Tim".[IMG][/IMG]
you have an acceptable droop, still a significant one but not one that will need a $79.00 or $100.00 1 piece adjustable Sport Match mount for a $200.00 air rifle
welcome to the dreaded RWS barrel droop
I had a M34 that shoot worst than that one and had to cut the barrel from 19" inches to 14", and I like the 16" ones (carbine)
divide 1 3/4 or 2 inches by 10 yards and it is magnified at 30 yards
you will need shim's to correct the barrel droop if you use a scope, regardless of the droop, start with the Leaper 1 pc. mount and then go with the scope
warren
and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"
You said: "welcome to the dreaded RWS barrel droop -- I had a M34 that shoot worst than that one and had to cut the barrel from 19" inches to 14", and I like the 16" ones (carbine) "
Please explain why cutting the barrel "fixed" your "Droop" problem. I do not understand. I thought this droop thing had to do with the angle of the (straight) barrel as compared to the breech block and action of the rifle. Is this wrong?
It takes 7.8 mil. seconds for the pellet to travel the 19" barrel
air pistols have 9" barrels but not as accurate as 14" air rifles
I have a webley Xocet in .22 cal with a 14" barrel shooting 700 FPS with 14.3 gr. pellet
also a M94 with 16" barrel in .22 cal and it does 720 FPS, 14.3 gr. pellet
and a B25 Chinese copy of the RWS 34 with a cut barrel of 14" and doing 700 FPS also, in .22 cal and with 14.3 gr. pellets
I also have a M34 in 14" and another in 16" in .22 cal chasing the 700 fps range
the thing with cutting a barrel is that you have to choke and crown them after that
look at the TX 200 Air Arms air rifle with a under 10" barrel and amazing accurate
RWS 34's come with Droop and all are different, you could correct them with a SLEDGE hammer and 2 ea. 2 x 4 wood boards, or take the barrel out of the action and with the left hand on the breech assembly and the right one in the middle of the barrel SLAM it against a concrete pad once or twice (use gloves)
bet you that barrel has no DROOP after this
or
get a mount and shim away
warren
and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"
Sorry you ain't a gonna see me a bangin away on no beautiful German barrel! I like Timmy's idea MUCH better than that approach. Think I will cogitate on this while I leearn more!
You don't need a sledge (although it IS the permanent cure if you believe droop is a disease - I don't, I think it is a characteristic just like pellet drop.)
"the other one that even a cave man with a low GPA can do it also" I prefer to think of the people who can do this adjustment successfully with tools that fall into the stone knives and bear claw "tool" category as Artists, not cave men!
and finally decided to answer this message. I thought my tounge in cheek comment abougt "bangin" my barrel would indicate that I understood that Warren's comment about the sledge was a bit of humor also. I guess we were both a bit obtuse.
I don't have as many rifles as Waren, but I have been around the block a few times, so set's close this thread. I will ask more questions in a new thread as they arise.
So not for the faint of heart but I "tuned out the droop" using a deadblow mallet. Since I paid $99 shipped my palms weren't too sweaty! Here's the link to my posts earlier and results...
The barrels on air rifles are typically softer metal than powder guns because they don't need to withstand pressure. Subsequently they can be bent (witness bear trapped and barrel slapped barrels) relatively easily. Mine did take about 6 decent whacks and I got lucky on the first try because it went back into the stock just once and you can see the results.