Holdover (no login) from IP address 98.117.188.193
MY 34 is shooting high with open sights, about onch inch at ten yds and 2.5 at 18 yds, the thing is, she is grouping pretty well,Im really at a loss to figure whats wrong.
Ive never had it tuned (yet)But I lube tuned her my self and she cocks and fires very smooth ,
kind of scratching my head here.
On another note, my 350 is shooting pretty well again, went back inside cleaned up some areas that looked like there could be a problem and sanded down the edges of the glass a bit.
My Macarri spring arrived yesterday and Im not so sure I want to put it in yet. she s is shooting so nice again, I havent got it out to the range yet,but shes clover leafing at 18 yards. (with a scope)
the only thing im concerned with is loseing power in exchange for a small bit of accuracy.
I did a quick chairgun based on a guess of .177 and 850 fps with a 8.4 g pellet and it says if you were high at 10 yards, you would be higher at 18 yards, so that part is OK. I assume you have your rear sight turned all the way DOWN, right?
RE the 350; Macarri kit is always better. You said spring. Do you have the full kit (fitted top hat and rear guide), or the ability to make your own? If not, I would say if its not broke, don't fix it (besides, do you really want to have both guns not working right at the same time! - remember Murphy is out there lurking)
What Macarri spring do you have? I would say if you lightened up and went the XLR2 kit, you would see an improvement in control, but from what you are saying, you pretty much like what you've got, so were probably not wanting to sacrifice power for control....
No I dont have the whole Maccari kit. I just had it tuned and I figured I really didnt need it, but I was thinking a marrcari spring may help somewhat. I emailed JM,(business) and they told me which spring to order. because I wasnt certain as to exactly what I needed.its thier standard 350 spring with seal on thier site.
I was trying to squeeze as much accuracy from the rifle as I could, But its shooting very nice now. So Im not sure just how much more accuracy Im going to get in leiu of power .
See what Im saying? Is it worth the loss of power to gain .25 at 30 yards ? You know what I mean?
Thats kind of my dilema. I could live with loseing 50-60 FPS, but anything more than that seems like a bad trade off.
Is it posible that you or someone else may have let go of the barrel on your 34 before it was fully cocked/latched? ("Brl. Slap")?? This could be one explanation. I dont have any Dianas here right now with opens on them but IIRC you can add a small washer or two under the elv. knob. Im not sure if that will work if it is bottomed out. (It worked on my Ruger 34 clone). Tim.
Re the 350. The XLR2 is a reduced power kit for the 48 series. I have one in my 460 shooting .177 JSB 8.4g at 950 fps - relatively smooth. You continue to talk that you like the power and the accuracy is OK - Why would you change???
Holdover. I thought you had your 350 tuned "professinally" recently.
What happened that made you open it up and sand some parts of it down? Who tuned it?
You must have a lot of barrel droop on that 34 if it's shooting 2.5" high at 18yds, or like Tim said, something could have happened like barrel slap.
My older 350 with the rear sight all the way down, was shooting at least 1" high at 30yds. I just compensated for it and aimed lower but it was pretty much on target at 18-20yds.
In my opinion and experience, no matter how good one thinks their Springer shoots, it can always use some improvement. I think that you will love your 350 with the JM kit, but that's just me. You may not loose 50fps, probably around 30 or so but I think it will be a lot smoother with a quicker shot cycle and more accurate. I agree with what others said though. Don't just put the spring in. I 'd sell this one, and get the complete JM kit with tophat & guide next time Maccari makes them (gotta check his specials page every day).
Holdover. I thought you had your 350 tuned "professinally" recently.
Yes I did!
What happened that made you open it up and sand some parts of it down? Who tuned it?
Jhon in PA tuned it, and did a great job, no complaints here, Im still very impressed . cant say enough about that.
I glassbeded the stock myself, Ive never done it before and guys have said it was pretty easy, so I tried it. my shots were way off at first,
So I had to go back in and fix some trouble spots, lightly sanded the glass shaved of anything that looked like trouble and it shazzzzam! back to normal. Live and learn I guess.
You must have a lot of barrel droop on that 34 if it's shooting 2.5" high at 18yds, or like Tim said, something could have happened like barrel slap.
Yeah I think so , see, I had a scope on my 34 for so long that I never really noticed before.It shoot well, just high with open sights
My older 350 with the rear sight all the way down, was shooting at least 1" high at 30yds. I just compensated for it and aimed lower but it was pretty much on target at 18-20yds.
In my opinion and experience, no matter how good one thinks their Springer shoots, it can always use some improvement.
I agree . thats kind of my feelings on my rifles, I want to squeeze out the max on them.
I think that you will love your 350 with the JM kit, but that's just me. You may not loose 50fps, probably around 30 or so but I think it will be a lot smoother with a quicker shot cycle and more accurate. I agree with what others said though. Don't just put the spring in. I 'd sell this one, and get the complete JM kit with tophat & guide next time Maccari makes them (gotta check his specials page every day).
OHHHHHHHHH I cant sell this one . thats my baby now. See the thing is , John just gave it a great tune and a top hat and seal, and I didnt think the whole macrarri kit would improve the performence a whole lot more, maybe the spring would reduce the vibration a little more.I dont know for sure, but thats my thoughts on it .
I have it clover leafing at around 20 yards ( with a scope) and havent got it to the range yet . But if im correct it should also be zeroed around the 35 yard mark .shooting JSB 18 gr. heavys.
My crappy leapers scope **** the bed,and I have a cheesy 3x9 on it now. what a shame.I just dont have the spare jing to get a decent hawke scope.
Oh quick question, is there any trick to removeing the top hat on the original spring and putting it on the macarri spring? or does it just pop off and on.??
Tim,Is it posible that you or someone else may have let go of the barrel on your 34 before it was fully cocked/latched?
You know Im not really sure, I dont remember . But one time after I first got it. I do recall the pivot pin up front under the barrel falling out as I fired, and it flew downwards.
("Brl. Slap")?? This could be one explanation. I dont have any Dianas here right now with opens on them but IIRC you can add a small washer or two under the elv. knob. Im not sure if that will work if it is bottomed out. (It worked on my Ruger 34 clone). Tim.
Re the 350. The XLR2 is a reduced power kit for the 48 series. I have one in my 460 shooting .177 JSB 8.4g at 950 fps - relatively smooth. You continue to talk that you like the power and the accuracy is OK - Why would you change???
The power and accuracy is fine, I just want to squeeze as much accuracy out of it as I can. Like someone stated before , power and range dont mean much if ya cant hit what your aiming at . I like to see how far I can push the limits of this rifle.not thats its nessasary.
SO I had it pro tuned, a huge improvement, I glass bedded it , a some improvement, I put a field expedient barrel dampener on it , some improvement.Now Im considering the marrcari spring , and possibly a barrel brake .
does not exist in any RWS that I know of, out of the BOX
"barrel drool?" is a permanent fixture for them
either way "slam that barrel" for droop but for Brl slap, check your front screws and the barrel to the position of the barrel breech, make sure the bolt is releaseased, REMOVED before you do this
you LOST your alligment between the breech block and the barrel and the fix is not easy
you do not have the banana effect, just the opposite but with some complications
release the barrel assembly from the action and the wood stock
tap the front of the barrel HARD with a hammer and a wood between the hammer and the barrel to settle the barrel to the breech assembly and assemble it again, shot and find out
don't do this unless you understand the consequences of making a mistake or not understanding the procedure
or do the above and "SLAM" that barrel backwards
warren
and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"
Thanks Warren, I might try slapping the barrel backward, but Im a little nervous about the hammer thing after my glassing incident.lol. I will try and see what happens. Thanks for the info.
I took it outside and tried slapping the barrel like you said and it worked!!bulleyes at 10 yards, its too dark to shoot outside so I dont know how well at 20 but still. it was about an inch high at 10 yards and now its killing bulls. Thanks a ton!! .
"John just gave it a great tune and a top hat and seal
"Oh quick question, is there any trick to removeing the top hat on the original spring and putting it on the macarri spring? or does it just pop off and on.??"
It is a good thing John isn't dead or he would be turning over in his grave! You understand the part about how he fitted the top hat to the spring AND how the Macarri spring is a DIFFERENT diameter and won't fit the guide and top hat that fit the stock spring, right? If you replace the stock spring with a Macarri spring, you need a top hat and spring that is fitted to the Maccari spring; that's what the KIT is about! I would say just shoot/enjoy your John of PA tuned gun and don't try to fix it anymore....
"John just gave it a great tune and a top hat and seal
"Oh quick question, is there any trick to removeing the top hat on the original spring and putting it on the macarri spring? or does it just pop off and on.??"
It is a good thing John isn't dead or he would be turning over in his grave! You understand the part about how he fitted the top hat to the spring AND how the Macarri spring is a DIFFERENT diameter and won't fit the guide and top hat that fit the stock spring, right? If you replace the stock spring with a Macarri spring, you need a top hat and spring that is fitted to the Maccari spring; that's what the KIT is about! I would say just shoot/enjoy your John of PA tuned gun and don't try to fix it anymore....
LOL, OK. That might be a good idea.
Well my apolagys to John, and you ,and the forum. I havent put the spring in , and it looks like its a good thing too. So all in all I learned from my mistakes which is a good thing , but it can be an expensive thing as well.But Ya cant blame a guy for trying .
Rest assured I will not bother my 350 again, She 's a moody B*tch. I think Ill just leave her alone for a while
THe good news is, that I learned some new things about my rifle, thanks to the forum and my experiences with the rifle. And I want to thank everyone for helping me along the way .
Can you explain more in detail what you did as I think I might have a similar problem with a new Diana RWS 34P.
I set the gun on the rest to hard and fired, it sounded like a powder burner .22 went off. Now my shots are good for 10 then wild then good again.
Open your brl. Look thru the breach end at a light collored surface or the sky. You should see a full circle all the way down the bore. If it is distorted & you see a "half moon" at the bore end your gun has suffered "Brl Slap". If so,,, it can be repaired. "Old Tim".
the breech is held by a screw that goes from the the side of the METAL action the the cocking assembly below holds the breech up and down
it is held by an X and Y axis, vertical and horizontaly
the barrel is pressed into the breech assembly, that is IT!!! nothing more, no assistance what-so ever
the barrel droop is from the barrel NOT the breech assembly the barrel slap is the barrel not seated properly in the breech assembly, it moved, that is IT again
you CANNOT have a 34 that has barrel droop one day and then gave you barrel slap, one shoot's down and the other UP
if you release the barrel VIOLENTLY or to fast AFTER you cock it you will get barrel slap, the barrel moved from the breech because it is pressed and the release was HARD on the breech assembly and the barrel moved inside the pressen breech assembly UP
warren
PS: remember you cock and un-cock the break barrel rifle, when you compress the energy of the spring inside the action, that 28-34 pounds is inside the action ready to SPRING back out
and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"
