Now that my M34PPC 20 yard groups are fair, I am trying to move the group to the center of the target. With my new UTG droop compensated mount, new Weaver 1" rings and RWS 3-9x40 scope all mounted, I scope centered the reticle. The groups were a little high but right a bunch. A bit of shimming under the front ring took care of the elevation. Now I would like to tackle the big miss to the right somehow, before I use the turret screws. I am puzzled why the gun is shooting so far to the right. Everything appears to be mounted correctly. One clue may be that it did the same thing with the previous mount and rings so that suggests that the culprit may be the scope or the scope rail. Is it possible that the scope rail is mounted on the gun at an angle? Is it possible to shim the scope laterally to compensate for whatever is causing this?


ZZ

start by reversing the front ring. just turn it around. see if that makes a difference. if not put it back and do it with the rear ring. i had that issue on my 52 and my 46 and the trick worked. your screw heads will be on oposite sides of the gun but so what.

what Larry explains makes a perfect solution

it is called a INVERS solution, try it and post back

warren

and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

Also I found if you tighten one set of screws (right side or left) more than the other you can get this to happen. I set the ring cap on and finger tighten all 4 screws snug and check to see that the gap on both sides are the same. Then go through and run 1 turn each alternating from side to side so I get an even squeeze on the tube.
Once I get it all tight I mark the alignment with a black felt tip marker. Just run it along the back and front of the rings on the tube. Shoot a few rounds and see if there was any movement. If not some rubbing alcohol removes the marker and you are golden. If you get movement set the scope back and tighten a little more than last time. Eventually you will get it locked down tight.

That your scope rail is the culpret. more likely is your scope. If the above tricks don't work, two options:

1) Scope Warranty
2) Adjustable Weaver mounts.

what I do in mounting a scope is get a piece of straight 1" drill rod, maybe 18" long, and put it into the mounts (bottom half), really, any straight piece 1" round will do, even wood dowel. If you look down the rifle, you should see the rod directly over the barrel, that is if the grooves are aligned with the barrel and the mounts are machined for proper alignment. That happens sometimes, but often as not the rod will favor one side or the other, i.e., stick out to the right side or the left side near the barrel. Then I just play with the mounts and try to get a closer alignment, switch front to back, turn one around, etc, and see if it makes any difference. Once I find the best alignment, then I tighten it down, mount the scope and see if I have enough adjustment in the scope. If not, the gun may need an adjustable mount as the scope grooves may just be too far out. Or a scope with less power or a larger adjustment range. Also, Burris offers a posi-align mount system that allows for adjustment with plastic shims, and which does not distort or put pressure on the scope. That might be an option for you as well.

Of course, you could always leave it as is and just aim a little to the left.

They might cost more but they handle all these issues and never slip. Avoids alot of headaches. Just my 2 cents. John

I, personally, don't do this but many shooters do. Ensures that the rings are properly aligned with each other. Too far off and you can warp your tube.

I've been reading every post zzulu, and I haven't jumped in yet because there is a lot of good advice coming your way already.

I have a 34 also, bought about 2 months ago, and I've had a very rough time developing a connection with it so far. I've had moments of brilliance with the rifle, don't get me wrong, but for the most part it feels like I'm scratching one of those lottery cards when I pull the trigger. I have a fair amount of "powder burner" trigger time, but most of my air rifle experience has been with the 34.

I believe that the main problem most people are going to have with springers is developing their own method of holding the rifle during the shot cycle. From what I've read, it seems that every springer has at least a bit of "hold sensitivity" and finding, perfecting, and keeping the right hold is paramount to success with the rifle. In my opinion, albeit an ignorant and undeveloped one, the 34 is fairly "hold sensitive" and might be a shade on the unforgiving side when learning to work with it.

You are having to work out potential issues with your scope, mounts, adapter, etc. in addition to the learning curve of the 34. Honestly, I know it's not what you want to hear, because I don't like the answer either, but it seems like you really have to break the rifle in, then let it break YOU in. Chasing the accuracy around is going to make you crazy and drain your wallet. I seriously think that my rifles potential is deep within the lump of coal I have in my cabinet. I'm determined now to spend the time, and money, to make the connection with my 34 and hopefully it will show me what it needs to be shot accurately. This might help with you too.

Good luck and good shooting.

Joel:

is brilliant, you my friend really understands' the the REAL M34

warren



and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

Joel - Your post brings to mind "being one with the gun".

I think that zzulu's issue is one of a simple misalignment that needs to be addressed via many of the suggestions. He's consistently hitting right but I think grouping OK and wants to "zero" things w/o using up the scope adjustment. Many of the suggestions will help with this.

HOWEVER!!!!!!!!

You my friend, have hit the nail on the head with the next step in the process, and I've not read it more poetically described than in your post. You and the gun must get to know one another before it all comes together. I'm there (unfortunately been there for a while) with my 48. Getting better, but always room for improvement!

Good Post Joel!

Model48

Well put!

You are right about the hold. My groups have improved a lot in a week and I would attribute 70% of the improvement to working on shooting it without touching it. The rest was due to removing the muzzle brake. The consistent shooting right is due I believe to a bent scope and I will fix that. Its a bit frustrating to have to concentrate so much on the hold and I hope that with time it will become second nature. Thanks for the advice.

ZZ

Of course I don't know how tall you are or your body dimensions, so take my experience to mean that it needs to be translated by you. Make sense? I'm about 75.5 inches tall and weigh about 195 pounds. Most of the time I shoot right handed.

I just spent about two hours shooting my 34, so this is still fresh in my mind. I haven't mounted a scope on my 34, yet, and may never do so, but my accuracy has improved a lot just by paying attention to every point of contact between the rifle and my body. When taking aim, I snug the rifle in the crook between my shoulder and my chest, but do so fairly lightly. For reference, it might feel too light to you at first. I then squeeze the grip, putting the cap about halfway into my palm with my bottom two fingers off of the grip. I put my left hand forward and press the tip of my index finger into the right screw hole. I straighten my left thumb and basically cup the forearm. I don't lay my cheek on the comb anymore than it takes to get a good picture. Something that I forgot to mention in my last post was the importance of follow through. When squeezing the trigger, I focus on making a smooth pull and witnessing the impact. I've noticed that when you can see the impact, or at least keep the POA at the expected POI, you increase your chances of beating the long shot cycle time. I had to force myself to remember that things happen a little slower with spring rifles. After you squeeze the trigger, there is a noticeable lag time where you MUST keep your aim point.

Today was my first real test of the Mendoza peep sight and after an initial getting used to, I dialed in to within ~3 inches of starlings at a GPS measured 85 yards. I smiled more today while shooting my 34 than I ever have. In fact, it was actually a relief to shoot with the accuracy that I knew could be achieved, instead of running down the checklist of potential issues. Shooting is fun again!

and there is; "a small but important lag time after you squeeze the trigger, where you MUST keep your aim point"

it is called "the 8 mil. second travel time" thats what it takes the pellet to travel from the breech to the end of the barrel, it might not seem like a long time but is a critical element when shooting an air rifle

MORE so at longer range shooting

thats' what my signature is all about



and remember "it's 30% the gun and 70% the shooter"

Agreed with follow through. I watch my pellet hit the target. I was amazed to find out I could actually see them travel through. So I fire and watch.
My M34P is pretty accurate, did some short range paper this week and came up with 2 pretty good sheets.



The Crows kinda threw me off a little on this target.