boots

Last summer, RMI said ok to the heavy leather La Sportivas i brought. I was much happier than the people i heard groaning about the double plastic boots. I brought thick wool socks and chemical warmers as insurance. You might consider trying the same. Just be sure to try them out for warmth and crampon stability ahead of time...

I'm one who voiced complanits about RMI. (I did summit, and i wasn't expecting to be pampered... but heck they had me carrying an extra rope and LEADING a rope team at one point.) I think it has a LOT to do with which guides you get, and none of the ones you mentioned were on my trip. Thanks for mentioning by name ones you thought were good...it could be useful future info.