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A question for Marcus or Bernard

November 16 2006 at 4:56 PM
Michael  (no login)

Marcus or Bernard

could you give a top 5 list of UN watches you would own assuming someone had approx 20,000-25,000 USA dollars to spend on an individual man's watch:

your opinions are very much valued --specifics of bracelet vs rubber strap are appreciated, the more details for me the better

not everyone can afford a Freak (:

thanks!

 
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Marcus Hanke
(Login mhanke)
Brand Forum Moderators

So you mean 25k per watch? Or all five together? ...

November 17 2006, 6:31 AM 

... list price, I assume?

Regards,
Marcus

 
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Michael
(no login)

yes marcus 25,000 per watch approx. usa dollars

November 17 2006, 6:48 AM 

Thanks in advance for your insight

Regards,


 
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Marcus Hanke
(no login)

My list, or better: considerations ....

November 18 2006, 9:42 AM 

Generally, I would suggest to choose according to personal likings, taste, simple: the "chemistry" between you and watch style. What is the use of buying an expensive watch if you don't like it? Only, because somebody considers it as typical for a certain company? So if you like repeaters, buy not five, but only two watches and give yourself a repeaters and another one.

As a consequence, such a "Top 5 under 25k" list can but mirror my only, individual and very personal preferences and thoughts. Following this disclaimer, here is my list, respecting the 25k-dictate, in alphabetical order, with no particular ranking:

1. Acqua Perpetual: Now discontinued, but the only way to purchase a UN perpetual calendar under 25k. A UN collection without the best perpetual mechanism in the world is unimaginable!

2. Anniversary 160 (pink gold): UN's current milestone piece with the new cal. 160 movement;

3. GMT Big Date (pink gold): The unique and most practical GMT mechanism, a UN/Oechslin patent, deserves a place in the list. Since the Acqua Perpetual comes without the GMT (remember: < 25k!), you need to spend a list place for the GMT Big Date. My personal favourite: the 40mm model in pink gold, with silver dial; a classic watch. The more conspicious alternative: 42mm small second in pink gold, with silver sunray pattern dial.

4. Marine series: No watch design is more identified with Ulysse Nardin than the marine chronometer style, one of the Marine series definitely has to be on the list! There is ample choice, but I would suggest one of the more classical ones, so no diving watch and no chronograph. You can get away relatively inexpensive with the first and most famous of UN's Marine series, the 1846 Marine Chronometer (38mm) in yellow gold. the difference to 25k could be spent on another watch. If you decide to exploit the full price limit, then you could take it with gold bracelet, but this would not be my choice. The new Anniversary Marine Chronometer with white lacquered dial is over 25k, although only barely. Both styles, the Roman numerals and the Arabic numerals, are genuine, but I prefer the Roman numerals on white lacquer as the more chronometer-like, over the various dial styles of the Maxi Marine Chronometer.

5. San Marco Chronometer, steel, with blue enamel dial: Also one of the UN classics. I would have chosen one of the cloisonné enamel dials, but these are over 25k. Yet the plain blue, transparent enamel on the silver guilloche base is worthy a list place on its own.

You see, all my choices absolutely respect the 25k limit.

If I were to choose personally, I would maybe limit my list to three watches only, distributing the total sum of 125k on these three:

1. Perpetual GMT 38mm, pink gold, smoke dial: For me simply the most desirable UN that is perfect for everyday wear: By combinating both, perpetual and GMT mechanisms, you can cleverly save one list place.

2. Marine Chronometer 1846, yellow gold, white lacquer dial, Roman numerals

3. One these three, all of them over 40k, but since you save a lot with the 1846, this is justified:
a) Hourstriker, pink gold, black enamel dial: Combination of three classic UN techniques: striking, Jacquemart and enamel, my favourite

b) Freak 28,800, white gold: I would have preferred the Freak 1 in white gold, but this is not available any more; however, the Freak 2 is a milestone on its own.

c) Sonata, white gold, silver dial: Also a milestone, and after the Freak 1 the first fully self-developed and produced UN movement.

What, no Anniversary 160? No, because a) it uses the Dual Ulysse escapement that is used already in the Freak 2, so by taking the latter, you have the escapement, and
b) the cal. 160 is going to be used in a new GMT Big Date, so waiting for this allows you to have two original UN complications in one watch.

Best regards,
Marcus

 
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Michael
(no login)

Marcus, your insights, detail, and time

November 18 2006, 4:48 PM 

taken to respond are appreciated. Now i have a head start of information needed to make some decisions. Your the best!

With best regards and warm wishes for you and your family for the upcoming holiday season,

Michael

 
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bernardcheong
(Login bernardcheong)
AP Discussion Group

VERY interesting....

November 17 2006, 4:22 PM 

Give me a day. I will answer.


 
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Michael
(no login)

thanks Bernard for your time! nt

November 17 2006, 4:29 PM 

nt

 
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bernardcheong
(Login bernardcheong)
AP Discussion Group

Three...

November 20 2006, 12:43 AM 

under 25k, I would look for a Blue Max...there may be one out there.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/232632/message/1041564769/Blue+Max


and a Marine annual calendar..



http://www.network54.com/Forum/232632/message/1043576625/UN+Marine+Annual+Calendar+Chrono+%28black%29


But if you can find one...it has to be the Freak, at any price!!

http://www.network54.com/Forum/232632/message/1044068121/UN+Freak+White+Gold


These are my absolute favorites for the budget.


 
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georgeho
(Login georgeho)
AP Discussion Group

Im surprised ...

November 20 2006, 5:36 AM 

no 160 Anniversary on your list for a UN under 25k usd ? or were you thinking in sgd

 
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MichaelC
(no login)

The white gold 160 is 28.8k...

November 20 2006, 6:13 AM 

I think the rose gold is 24.8, so I guess that would qualify.

 
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georgeho
(Login georgeho)
AP Discussion Group

That must be List Px ?

November 20 2006, 6:58 AM 

You probably can get the WG under 25k usd in Singapore. But the choice of UN watch to buy is more
important at the end of the day .It has to speak to you !

 
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MichaelC
(no login)

Agreed. For the record >>>

November 20 2006, 8:04 AM 

The white gold 160 is absolutely my choice for this question.

 
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georgeho
(Login georgeho)
AP Discussion Group

Mine too ! Just bought....

November 21 2006, 8:31 AM 

the 160 Anniversary WG today . Would have preferred the Sonata cathedrals but will have to save up for that one. Have been looking long and hard for a representative piece from UN to acquire and glad Ive chosen the forward looking 160. It falls within your 25k budget .Go get it before the limited pieces run out . Sonata retails 100k sgd and cant imagine the freak 2 !

 
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bernardcheong
(Login bernardcheong)
AP Discussion Group

It's the FIRST automatic movement carrying a direct drive escapement

November 22 2006, 12:24 AM 

This is certainly a landmark and historic piece.

Come to think of it, it's an automatic Freak with hands and dial!

Worth every penny.

Congrats!


 
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Marcus Hanke
(Login mhanke)
Brand Forum Moderators

Are you sure? Isn't it INdirect? ...

November 24 2006, 7:08 AM 

... I always thought the "Freak" had the "Dual Direct" escapement, while the "Freak 28,800", using the same escapement as the Anniversary 160, has the "Dual Indirect" type.

Regards,
Marcus

 
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Marcus Hanke
(Login mhanke)
Brand Forum Moderators

You are right! But, please, next time ...

November 23 2006, 8:03 AM 

... refrain from speculations on street prices, as we have begged in the forum guidelines. I have to admit, already list prices cause massive headache with me, since we as a truly international community must accept that list prices can vary hugely over the world, depending various levels of taxes, but also other market considerations. We should not stir any hot discussions about the reaons for different list prices.

Sorry for the inconvenience!
Regards,
Marcus

 
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georgeho
(Login georgeho)
AP Discussion Group

I apologise.....

November 23 2006, 9:37 AM 

didnt mean to stir up anything . Just excited over my new acquisition . Understand that pxs vary greatly and should not be dwelled upon .

 
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bernardcheong
(Login bernardcheong)
AP Discussion Group

Correct, the 160 may well be above 25k.

November 20 2006, 4:09 PM 

I thought long and hard...but if u needed to break the 25k barrier, might as well break it all the way and go for a used freak.

Also, to get a freak adds an element of challenge. It may no longer be just money.

On the other hand, you are also right, the 160 is the FIRST automatic movement in the world with the direct/indirect drive. Tough choice!


 
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Anonymous
(no login)

any pics of the 160 wg and rose gold next to each

November 21 2006, 1:39 PM 

other available yet?

 
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