I use a mix of traditional wrist curls and wrist circles.
Very light weights - it's all about repitition for wrists.
It's worked for me.
This message has been edited by GMTKiwi from IP address 219.89.242.224 on Apr 16, 2012 4:11 PM This message has been edited by GMTKiwi from IP address 219.89.242.224 on Apr 16, 2012 4:09 PM
And similar issue with the oyster bracelet. I had sourced an older beater bracelet to test the "remove perm link" mod and did not like it. So I just live with it a bit off center. You can get some different comfort points by adding or subtracting a link on the 12:00 side and then adjusting the micro spring in or out. I have a perfect fit going with my 1675 where I added a link and then pulled the micro close vs. taking out the link and having it set looser. The secret is getting the clasp pivot point to fall distinctly at a link joint.
Hammer (Login HammerHammer) VRF Member 192.148.117.100
U can buy a tool that will seperate a permanent link >>
April 16 2012, 8:58 PM
And then allow it to be removed and after with the use of a rawhide mallet or such will allow u to tap the link before and after back into place , the tool works perfectly and a dab of the correct loctite will ensure the integrity of the bracelet remains
You don't have to CUT a link... I have a 5.5 inches wrist and here is my solution:
April 17 2012, 1:50 AM
As for all the older solid oyster bracelet, the 6 o'clock links are very unfriendly to small wrists like mine.
Use a pin remover and push out the last pin that connects to the clasp's blades.
Then remove the last link that connects to the blades
Then finally connect the second last link to the blade using the pin instead of the screw.
Yes, the bracelet looks incomplete without the last link but you get to wear it well!
And my wrist is smaller than 6". The 6 o'clock is still too long for me even after all the removable bits are removed, and I've not figured out how to remove a permanent link easily. So what helped me a little bit more is to adjust the other side so that the end of the "thingy" is right at the in between of the two links instead of on one of the link. What I observe with the later is that the bracelet is pulled over to the other side because the "thingy" creates a kind of fulcrum. Terrible explanation, picture is better.
The article has some other advice that might help in terms of link removal etc. I've found that the modern Sub-C bracelet has the most comfortable setup for us small-wristed guys with one additional removable link on the 6:00 side. But I prefer vintage watches.