Here is a retrofit that I had performed using oem aftermarket reflector housings. The orange strips has been removed and the dividers were painted w/ high temp bbq black paint. The projectors are DOT 2001 Audi A4/S4 made by Valeo. Here are some daytime pics. I'll get some night time pics later. The chrome stuff were made w/ a Budweiser can. The car was polished using AMSOIL Car Polish, its good stuff.
















How bout that beam pattern?

Nice job. How did you work out the adjusters? I like the idea with the beer can. I have a 99 Accord and I used Audi A6 projectors, not bad but a little bigger than I expected.

I mounted the S4 projectors inside the reflectors. Used a dremel to cut into the bottom and the rear. Since the reflectors' part of the housing uses the factors adjusters, by mounting the projectors to the reflectors, I was able to adjust the projectors using the same adjusters. Only thing that was important was to get the projectors rotated correctly so that the cut off will be straight.

How did you mount them on the reflectors? I was thinking of that but had no idea on how I would be able to drill into that fiberglass. I ended up removing the Low beam reflector and mounting the A6 projectors to the housing itself.

You dremel out the inside of the circle part on the rear part of the low beam reflector. You do not want to take out the circle cause that helps in centering your projector when mounting. Try to align the top of the projector with the inside of the top of the reflector surface, it should be pretty flat. Then dremel the bottom of the reflector surface little by little, but make sure your cuts create a line parallel to the plane parallel to your projectors. Slowly cut and cut until you can get it in as much as possible. At this point your projectors should move in a quite a bit, but it might not be enough for your to close the clear cover of the housing. So you must sand and dremel out the inside corner of the reflector located where the circle part turns into the parabolic part. Keep dremeling the side that is touching your projector and keep going, but becareful cause does surfaces break through easily. You can break through as much as you want, as long as you do not break off the circle part completly, cause you can use jb weld.

Next once your get your projectors aligned with the top, (this does not make sure your projectors are correctly aligned yet, but helps you mount. You put 4 screws or however many it takes to mount your projectors. Going through the front of your projectors to through the reflector then out the back of the reflector. Drill it through as carefully as you can and making sure the holes are normal to the plane of the projectors. Then on the back you can use one of those nuts that you can turn by hand. After than you just mount it on the car w/o the front clear cover on and have a friend help you aim. It takes a while. I was choosing between the EURO E46, DOT S4, and the EURO A6. I didn't pick the EURO A6 cause it would require a lot of cutting due to the size of the parabolic reflector part of the projector. The E46 and the S4 are bought easier to mount due to the maximum height of the projectors being small enough to be able to get them to fit. Hope this helps.

Nice job....I always liked the look of the stock headlights with projectors.....

hey can u go into a little more detail on hoe u polished the can? i might need to steal ur idea so i can move my projector more foward. thanks

First you need a 209 can, that is typically the 24oz cans for beer. The one I used was a 24 oz Budweiser can. It is important to strip the paint though. The metal itself can go up to 1400-1700F before melting, but I don't know about the paint. I know the paint is fine up to at least 235F, so it might be alright. But in my case I used MEK methyethylene something and some mechanical action to removet he paint. But it happened that the white did not come off. Then I just took the can and put the dome (bottom surface) onto a belt sander so that it sands as symmetrically as possible. Then i used a 600 grit flat surface grinder to smoothen it out. I do cross sectioning so I have access to these sanders. Else if not use regular paper and try to sand it with the dome being as flat as possible on the paper. I first attempted to use a dremel, but the cut is not great but jagged.

Anyways the point of using the dome of the can is to provide a nice ring around the projectors, yet it had two flaps coming out of the ring ot cover up the 2 square holes present in the A4/S4 valeo projectors. Then I used a bit of jb weld to hold them down. But then I was thinking, hey the white doesn't look right on the projectors. So I used uncoated cans. They have the nice chrome color on them and cut them into 2 pieces. One for the top and another for the bottom and carefully wrapped one side at a time around, then using masking tape ot hold it down at the center of each end, then applying jbweld to hold them down. Apply a bit more would help. After it dries you can then put on the other piece. Remember two pieces per projector, one on top and one on bottom.

I work for a can and end making company so I was able to get the cans I need. For you guys I'd try sticking with maybe a coor silver bullet or any silver can so then all you need to remove is the paint. Chemicals might be the way to go, sanding it would mess up the surface.

Forgive me for sounding naive, but where can you get the A4/S4 or A6 projectors to act as donors? I can't seem to find a source.

You can get them from henrylampa on ebay. If you live in IL or try calling him up. Try to email him first I suggest and then make him a deal so you can get it cheaper than what he sells on ebay. I have no idea where he gets this stuff from. But he does, and he doesn't care what you do with them as long as the price is right. But make sure the projectors fit before mounting. I actually met up with him in person, first I wanted A6, but they seemed to big so I went with S4's. And beware of crazy people on the streets when you do any exchanges.

Top Right view of driver's side. Notice how the black high temp paint takes care of the glare, yet gives a nice aggressive look. I did not paint the lower part black, by not doing that it gives the headlamps a nice silver underline with the orange cleared.

I went with the reflector housings though it is harder to mount then the projector ones, because it looked more stock and natural. Although I liked the halos on the projectors the chrome surface look too ricey. I ended up getting the oem aftermarket projectors w/ the orange and doing all this from scratch w/ painting and doing the decorative stuff around the projectors. And if you ask why I didn't get the black clear reflectors, its cause I was not sure if they had the same adjusters as oem, and also the corner part of the signals on the housings is painted black and would not look as nice on a lighter colored car like this one. Mounting it was a bit of a pain, but I shouldn't be bad if I do it again. I'd try to push the shield in more to get a better purple band, but the valeo shields are strong as hell and really hard to push on.


Front view, the lower parking lights 168 bulbs were replaced with polarg superwhites to give it a more cleaner look. I left the signal/parking lights 1157 bulbs amber so I won't get pulled over.


An on road picture. I have no idea how to mess with the autoexposure settings so I took all my pictures auto. I did not mess with the brightness or contrast in any of the pictures.


If more of the can was sanded I would have a bit less obstructive pattern, but its still pretty good. When sanding the can w/o the dome it makes a horid screech noise that everybody at the plant can hear. So I stopped after I took out what I can. I recommend for you guys to get it up to the dome fillet. The little round ridge on the bottom side of the can that connects the body wall to the dome. Its where the step is. If you can grind it so far that the entire step is gone you're safe.


Close up beam pattern. LIghts were aligned 25 feet away from the wall and following the directions on a link I found from this forum.
http://www.autooptiks.com/aiming.html


Fuzzy picture but shows how bright the lights are and the cut off is straight when looking at the walls on the side. You can see the straight cut off when driving through tunnels or even on the medians of the highway.


Shows how the chrome and can dome are wrapped around the projector giving it a nice natural look. Backed up the partially black / clear painted housing.


A random shot about at cutoff or below. The purplish blue band changes in color when looking at the car from different heights and changes when going to the hot spot of the beam. Becareful not to stare too long below teh cut off, else you'll get blinded.