I just finished my HID projector retrofit into my 97 Camaro using e-code Audi A3 projectors and brand new Philips D2S bulbs and Hella ballasts. Everything turned out perfect and the cutoff is very sharp however, right at the center of the beam where the cutoff turns upward there is a little bit of yellow colored light above the cutoff. The rest of the cutoff has a nice deep purple color. Is this just because they are brand new bulbs and still need to color shift, or is this just the way the Audi projectors are?
Either way im very pleased with them just sorta curious if this changes over time and usage.
Thanks

At what distance do u see yellow around cutoff line? At less than 8-10m (or 20-30ft) the beam has not focused yet, and can create yellow/red/brown colors at or above cutoff.

What exactly do you mean focus? Is this something that is going to change once I get some usage on the system? Im just not sure how a fixed bulb, lens, and reflector can focus, or is this just another word for the colorshift? As for the distances I see the yellow, yes it is within 20-30ft for example if im parked near my garage door.
Thanks

I had the same problem too, I got the yellow hotspot whenever I was pulled up close to a garage, car, or something reflective in front of me. . .I guess it's the nature of the projector, from what herman's saying, and from what I realized, the beam pattern illuminates with like an optimal 30-40ft. L-shaped spread, anything within that L-shaped spread (like when you pull close to your garage, or behing someone at a stop light), will be WITHIN that range, and you'll notice that hotspot, which'll look yellowish . . .show a pic, because if they're OEM from an Audi, most manufacturer's get rid of those gremlins. . .

Suneil

I had the same problem too, I got the yellow hotspot whenever I was pulled up close to a garage, car, or something reflective in front of me. . .I guess it's the nature of the projector, from what herman's saying, and from what I realized, the beam pattern illuminates with like an optimal 30-40ft. L-shaped spread, anything within that L-shaped spread (like when you pull close to your garage, or behing someone at a stop light), will be WITHIN that range, and you'll notice that hotspot, which'll look yellowish . . .show a pic, because if they're OEM from an Audi, most manufacturer's get rid of those gremlins. . .



You can see what I'm saying here from my "garage" shot, that yellow clustering in the middle. . .as long as you have blue-white on either side, you're golden. . .

Suneil

Suneil, what projectors you are using? you have 2 big black spots! is that the shadow of the return wire?

I just took a shot of my cutoff in the garage. The projectors are exactly 5ft away from the garage door. In the photo the vertical "step" in the cutoff is sorta blurred and not visible but in person its very distinct. I am just curious whatsup with all that yellow right at the center and above cutoff. Again, the bulbs (philips D2S) are brand new. That photo was taken with not even 45 minutes of total time on the bulbs. Projectors are from a Audi A3 e-code. I did have to make a custom metal shroud to weatherproof the projector but I dont see how that can effect anything as OEM setups use this type of method also for cosmetic reasons. Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks

I think suneil needs some small driving/fog lights to fill in those spots on the ground!

The yellow hot spots are totally normal, and cannot be avoided. The only way to do so is to bend the shields in a milimeter or so towards the D2S...

Many of us have done this trick to our Hella 90mm projectors and the results are very good.

As far as Suneil is concerned, the shadows that you see are from the return wires... No way to avoid this though...

Like Milan said, they're unavoidable in my current setup because the return wire is on top, and since they're H7's in a 90mm projector, they kinda have to sit that way. . .I'm considering getting those new Hella micro DE projector fog lights, they look like they burn at 4100k, and the housing is small enough to squeeze into my front grill area.

I've thought about bending the shield back a bit (away from the lens, right, towards me?). . .this will yield a more blue cut off, right?

Suneil

Suneil, is ur return wire really pointing upwards in ur H7 Hella 90mm? That must really hurt output! Bending shields inward is definatly a secondary operation.

Herman, for whatever reason, the return wire on the H7 kit is in the upward position, so yes is your answer...

I'd take some snips and cut off that notch from the H7 HID base and rotate 180 degrees.

I was thinking about that, but cutting the tab, wouldn't that allow "more play" in the bulb where it meets the back plate of the projector?

Hmmm, I think the return wire would also rub on the shield as well, which is how I screwed my first bulb because I thought it went tab down(return wire down) and ended exposing the return wire, which I had to repaint, the paint, of course, burnt off, and I had to clean the lenses, etc. . .

I have to take my light fixtures out because one of them isn't sitting so well (I have to dremel a little to get it to fit right), so I'll take a look to see if I can do that, since that would get rid of that shadow, and increase output. (I was going to venture into bending my shield subtly too, love that blue. . .)

My H7 Hella 90mm gave me around 5-6mm clearance from return wire to shieled. But I used a plain P32d Philips D2S bulb.
I broke off the insulation as well on my first kit purchase (very bad rebase job), simply because of uncatious handling into the very narrow hole. Later, I drilled lotsa room for return wire on the bottom side which also made it easier to get bulb in/out. All this is pretty well covered on the Hella 90mm page on faq. This may not be possible on your setup because it hella unit is already modified and the fact that u have a kit.

Both Suneil and Herman are correct. First, cutting off the tab and rotating would cause the capsule to not sit securely in the projector...

And Herman is right when he says that the projector is modified. I cut the projectors about 5-6mm in the upper half of the reflectors, so that they can take the H7 capsules... If you were to turn them upside down, you would still have even worse results as you would then be forced to cut another 5-6mm on the bottom of the same reflectors... And that is a lot of reflective surface to lose...

An interesting part of the Hella 90mm design is that painting lower reflector portion (makes this area non reflective), there is no difference in output. I think it was Pliepl that first tried this. I was kinda sceptical that Hella would almost waste this area, so I ended up trying it myself, and the result was the same. I'd say less than 5% difference, which is not noticeable with human eye.