Just wanted to know if anyone here builds and then sells wire harnesses. I know we all doing things here as a hobby but sometimes to help pay for that hobby do things on the side ?
I am looking for a H4 bi-xenon harness. I just want to plug and play !!!
A harness for bi-xenon would just have 9006 connectors at one end for the ballasts, with an H4 socket at the other end, and a non-relayed trigger wire coming off the original high beam feed side for your shutter switching. Pretty easy to make, for maybe $20.
"A harness for bi-xenon would just have 9006 connectors at one end for the ballasts, with an H4 socket at the other end, and a non-relayed trigger wire coming off the original high beam feed side for your shutter switching. Pretty easy to make, for maybe $20."
I'm making a harness for a bi-xenon on a car with 9007 connectors (dual filament).
I'm following the circuit described on the FAQ, but I'm getting confused, What do you mean for "non-relayed trigger wire"??
So, this wire connects directly without any relay??
The relay for the HID ignition is required due to the high initial current draw. This relay is triggered by a solenoid, and the bi-xenon shutter is also actuated by a solenoid (with a longer throw). You COULD use a relay to trigger the shutter solenoid, but it really wouldn't be necessary. If you think it would be safer & more reliable somehow, just use a 2nd relay to trigger the shutter solenoid, but I believe it would be overkill.
yea, bi-xenon solenioid probably draws equally to a big relay, in the order of 0.1 to 0.3amps, with an inrush of 2 amp max. So a relay for those would be overkill. But a serial diode is more vital for a bi-xenon solenoid than for a generic automotive relay coil.
This message has been edited by herman_sho on Sep 26, 2003 7:46 PM
So the ballast wont shut off momentarily, like in a regular H4 bulb? I need to make a harness also. While looking at the diagram it says that you have to tap into the electrical system of your car and install a diode, is this correct? Is the diode going to stop the lights from shutting down momentarily? I own a Civic with H4 bulbs, in the middle of doing a retro fit with E46 Bi-xenon projectors. Also what does it mean when people refer to highs as being ground switched? Will this affect how the actual harness is made? Thanks.
Yes- typically in an H4 application, the low beam will power off when the high beams are turned on. Just pull your m/f switch and find the wire that shows 12 volts when the headlights are on, regardless of position (low or high beam). Now, using a diode, connect a lead to this wire and run it to your low beam relay. This will serve as your trigger. The diode prevents voltage "backlash" when you turn off your lights.
Ground-switching is just a fancy term for the position of the switch in a circuit, and is mostly common on foreign cars. Think of it this way: In a typical positive-switched circuit, power goes through the switch, then the electrical device, and back to ground. In a ground-switched circuit, power goes through the device, then the switch, and back to ground. So, on a ground-switched headlight circuit, the low beam and high beam wires at the bulb plug will show a constant 12 volts regardless whether or not the lights are on. I hope this helps.
Positive switching is where the device to be powered is always grounded (-) and power is sent to the device from a switched source.
Ground switching is where the device always has power (+) to it, and the (-) side of the circuit is grounded by a switch to complete the circuit.
Either way will work to complete a circuit, but a ground-switched scheme will produce less long-term wear on the switching mechanism; using Toyota (ground-switched lighting) as an example, their headlight & multifunction switch failures are the lowest in the business. The drawback to ground-switching is that it costs a bit more to implement, and many automakers don't/won't do it, just to save a few dollars per vehicle.
everyone's doing this as a hobby and they would have to charge way too much to try to recoup the time (that they lose for their own project) needed to make a one-off harness for someone else.
