I was wondering if I aligned my headlight correctly or not.

I did the 25 feet thing but when I align the headlight such that both Z are next to each other on the same horizontal line, I found out that if I stand in front of the car, going from top to bottom onto my knee, I dont see the same cutoff on both sides.

At the same time, if I align it such that both Z are next to each other on the same horizontal line, my high beam will be off with the passenger side significantly lowered.

However, when I align the headlight such that the passenger side is right on top of the left side. ie, they formed a perfect zig-zag line, then the cutoff from both sides seems to be correct, as I stand in front of the car going from top to bottom, I see the same color change given by the cutoff shield: from white to blue to white at the same time. And needless to say, the high beam are now correct too.

What gives?? This is OEM headlight for Audi A4 E-code.

The purpose of aiming is to get the light produced shining down the road a proper distance and out of the eyes of oncoming drivers. You won't have the same color change at the same time on properly aimed lights while looking at both of them from the same point. By aiming the lights into a single "Z", you're putting a dangerous amount of light into the eyes of oncoming drivers, while robbing needed light from the curbside of the road. Follow the proper aiming procedure, and stop worrying about synchronizing your color change:
http://www.autooptiks.com/aiming.html

what i did was set the car about 25ft back from my garage door and chalked the tires to the ground. i found the focal point of both halogen bulbs and put a little tape on the door and same for high beams. when i reinstalled the headlights i made sure i put the highbeam back on the high tape and set the Z on the lower tape, this will give you the proper left/right placement. then i oppoxied them inside the housing. then went for a drive down a dark road and noticed that they were a tad too low. then i could only raise the whole housing, so now my highs are a little too high but not that bad.

u must be getting confused on the left/right position. when close (25ft) you will see 2 separate Z's, but when on the road at greater distances they will merge forming one Z.

Sorry for the error in my post. I had corrected it.


I have high beam aiming problem if I have the low beam Z align horizontaly next to each other.

So the cutoff line is never meant to be aligned on the same horizontal line???

I'm not sure yours is a retro-fit or stock HID headlight from you last comment...but...The mark of a good retrofit (Assuming you have a combination Projector/Halogen highbeam) is when you don't have to screw up the highbeam alignment to get your low beams properly aimed. You always have to find your "null-point" BEFORE deciding on the mounting position of your projectors. Once they are mounted to the lowbeam reflector, most headlight adjusters will move them together from the outside. This seems to be an overlooked step for many people new to the process. Also, the rotation angle of each headlight needs to be harmonized to each other, not some external point of reference. This way you can be on a 15deg slope with the car, and both headlights create a straight line across. When using non-bixenon, the highbeam-lowbeam alignment remains critical for use on country streets with hills and dips. THe shadows created while descending on a road can be extremely dangerous.

This is not retrofit, This is original Audi A4 E-code headlight with original HID equipment.

I've read this before about Audi headlights. Apparently, it's a manufacturing decision (or flaw). There may be a dealer procedure to correct that high beam misaim.

On the Audi style fixture, a guy would have to set his highbeams to where he liked the aim of them (with the lowbeams disabled), and then you would have to put various different washers or shims under the 4 different studs that mount the lowbeam projector and shim it accordingly so as to aim them so they have the correct aiming. This could take awhile of trial and error to get them right. I would just shim them to get them pretty close, then go ahead and fine tune the normal settings to get it exact and hope that it wasn't enough to throw off the highbeams a significant amount from the point where I had found them to be adjusted perfect before