I've been using Logona herbal hair colour for about 14 years with only minor breaks. It's very fine powder that mixes well and is more easily applied and rinsed off than any other henna I've tried so far. I totally love that stuff, use it every two to three months and couldn't do without.
Sorry I sound like a commercial
I recommend doing a strand test first (
http://www.galaxina.net/henna has some great tips on strand tests and other henna issues). I've only used flame red and mahagony so far and keep it on my head for three two five hours instead of the recommended one to two because I love real intense reds.
Here's my routine, refined over a long time to the point that I don't make any mess anymore, I don't even stain a towel. It does sound lengthy, but I just wanted to make sure I cover all the little details. It takes me less than half an hour for a perfect application and maybe fifteen minutes to rinse it off without any residue.
Bear in mind that I'm doing a pretty drastic colour change, from an ash tone to bright red, so I want to be very thorough or else it will show. If you're only slightly changing your shade you don't have to worry as much.
Things you need:
Enough henna powder (one package of Logona colour is sufficient for about shoulder length hair of medium thickness)
Boiling water
Plastic or glass bowl and strong plastic or wooden spoon
Gentle clarifying shampoo
Two towels or one towel and a woolen cap
Some kind of greasy cream, vaseline or jojoba oil
Two pairs of single use latex or vinyl gloves with a snug fit
Hair dye brush
A hand held mirror (or assistance from a friend)
Cling wrap
Paper tissues
Wide toothed comb
A bottle of cheap, light conditioner
Some of your favourite detangling/moisturizing condidioner or leave-in
Apple cider vinegar
- Mix henna powder with boiling water (I use filtered water, but you don't have to) in a plastic or glass bowl with a strong plastic or wooden spoon. Don't use metal tools as this may chemically react with the henna (or so I read, I don't know this from personal experience). You want goo of soft yoghurt consistency.
With Logona you don't really have to add anything but water. They improved their formula some years ago and now already have all sorts of natural, healthy goodies in there including essential oils and jojoba oil. There are no artificial ingredients added and a lot of the stuff is organically grown.
- Wash hair with a gentle clarifying shampoo (this helps the colour to take better and get very even). I use Neutrogena clarifying shampoo. Wrap into a towel turban afterwards.
- Get towel into a position that it still covers your hair but slightly reveals the hairline. Apply some kind of grease to the skin all around your hairline to prevent staining the skin. I have used vaseline and nivea cream, but now prefer jojoba oil because you'll always get some into your hair as well and this washes out easily.
Be sure to cover your whole ears well.
- Get the henna goo. Stir, and if it has thickened slightly, add a tiny bit more hot water. The mix should now still be hot, but bearable.
- Put a hand held mirror (preferrably with a dark coloured handle), a hair dye application brush and some paper tissues into a position where you can grab them with dirty hands without making a mess. I lay them down on the toilet lid with the handles over the edge in the air.
- Put on single use latex or vinyl gloves. You don't want to use the ones that come with the henna, they don't fit snugly and you'll make more of a mess with them (if they don't slip off your hands completely).
- Bend over the tub and comb out your hair with a wide toothed comb. Put the henna bowl underneath your hair so whatever falls down while applying gets recollected.
- While still bent over, apply the henna bit by bit with your hands to your hair roots first. Section the hair into "chunks" and try to get the goo as close to your scalp as possible. Be thorough because you *won't* be able to comb through to distibute the henna afterwards. Get as close to the hairline as you can without going too far. You'll be able to do those details later with the dye brush.
- Apply henna to your length and ends strand by strand. After everything but the very hairline is covered and you only have little henna left, twist and coil hair and pile onto the top of your head.
- Stand upright. Move henna bowl from tub to sink and apply goo to front and side hair line with the dye brush in front of the bathroom mirror. Try to cover as many of the fine, short strands as thoroughly as possible without smearing any henna on your facial skin. Try to section the hair a bit without pulling too much to cover all roots to the point where you left off while bent over. Take your time, be fussy, it's worth it.
- Get the hand held mirror and use it together with the bathroom mirror to see your back, apply henna with the brush to the rest of your hair line.
- Carefully massage the whole mess a bit and have a look at your back if you see any "dry" spots appearing. Apply some more henna there.
- Wash your hands while still wearing your gloves, wet some paper tissue and remove any henna that got onto your skin around the hairline. Don't bother cleaning your ears yet. If you had to wipe a lot, apply some more oil or cream afterwards (preferrably with tissue cause your gloves won't get totally clean and you don't want to stain your skin yet again). Re-apply henna where needed with the brush if you wiped off too much. Repeat until all your hair is covered and all your skin is clean.
- Take off your gloves. Get some cling wrap and completley cover your hair (I need three sheets, back, top and front). I don't like the shower cap thingy that comes with the henna package. The elastic is so tight that it leaves marks on my forehead, especially as I leave it on for several hours.
Dig out your ears from under the cling wrap. Move the edges of the cling wrap rather than touching your ears unless you a waering (new) gloves again. Henna will stain your fingers rapidly and it's permanent on nails until it grows out. Finally clean ears with wet paper tissue.
- Cover your head with a towel turban or woolen cap. You want to retain the body heat on your head for maximum colour and conditioning.
- Leave on as long as desired.
- Prepare a vinegar rinse (two table spoons vinegar on one litre of cold water).
- Remove towel/cap and cling wrap and put on gloves again. Bend over tub as far down as you can (or you'll have have orange splashes everywhere), and rinse, rinse, rinse. Carefully massage your scalp without tangling your hair and rinse more until the water runs clear.
- Squeeze excess water out with your hands. While still wearing your gloves, apply a huge amount of cheap, light conditioner like you would for a regular C/O wash (see "LisaJaney's CO-Washing method" here:
http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/thread?forumid=224266&messageid=1035399568&lp=1039925065. You don't have to let it sit for a while on your head though as you would when C/O washing, just apply, massage, and finger comb to detangle. Make sure you cover and massage the neck hairs and those in front of your ears as well. Carefully comb through with a wide toothed comb, glide over scalp as well to loosen the last bits of henna.
- Rinse lots again until the water runs clear, then apply your vinegar rinse. The acid seals in the dye (like it does if you put some vinegar into the rinse water of fine silk garments that tend to "bleed" colour). It does make a difference, with a vinegar rinse I won't stain the hair towel afterwards, without the rinse I will.
- Apply your regular moisturizing/detangling conditioner unless you're planning to use a leave in for that purpose. The Logona henna is a heavy protein treatment, I always need lots of moisture to balance that or my hair will feel slightly stiff and brittle (not to the point of causing any damage, but unpleasantly so). That might be different for hair that loves lots of protein, mine generally doesn't.
- Rinse, towel dry and be happy with your new hue
If you rinse the way I described it you will very likely have no problems with little bits of henna residue.
However, I find that my hair feels slighly more stiff and less easy to comb/brush afterwards. Not to the point that it really bothers me, and it does go away after a few washes (together with the nice, full, fluffy feeling - my flimsy hair seems about twice as thick after a henna treatment which is one of the reasons I love that stuff so much). I mostly attribute that stiffness to the protein, I get a similar result from over-oiling with monoi or jojoba.
Cheers,
Madeleine
--
1cFi, just above bra strap, dark ash blonde hennaed fiery red
