LAZING MEDIEVALLY AT ‘CHÂTEAU DE CHILLON’ NEAR MONTREUX
A few kilometres outside Montreux, Ch.Chillon is located in a strategic position on the road between Lac Leman (Lake of Geneva) and Italy. The road through the Grand-St.Bernard Pass was a major thoroughfare to the Italian port of Messina on the way to the Holy Land and the Crusades.
There are about 25 buildings of varying age and architecture, forming one of the most beautiful medieval castles in Europe. Chillon uniquely has a dual façade - a mountain-facing fortress and a lake-facing courtly residence.
The rock, on which Chillon stands, was occupied by Bronze Age Man and later by the Romans. The age of the first medieval wall is unknown but the site was expanded by the Bishops of Sion in the 11th century. It was “acquired” by the Counts of Savoy from the 12th century and developed over the centuries. The castle was captured by the Swiss (Bernese) in 1536 when they conquered Vaud. Bernese bailiffs made it their residence until the Vaudois Revolution of 1798 caused them to leave. The castle became property of the Canton of Vaud when it was formed in 1803. Restoration work since the 19th century has been made easier by the discovery of archives documenting all building work since the 12th century.
CHÂTEAU DE CHILLON
Access is an easy 10-minute bus ride from central Montreux (Chillon bus-stop) with regular buses every 10-15 minutes.
Clock-face was re-painted in 1776
1st Courtyard
13th century basement vaults
Prison Gallows
‘Crucifixion with Saints’ on prison wall by an unknown 15th century graffiti artist
Byron left his own graffiti when he visited.
Byron also wrote more substantially about Chillon and its most famous prisoner, François Bonivard, Prior of St. Victor’s, Geneva, in his poem – ‘The Prisoner of Chillon’ (1816).
Numerous poets, writers and painters have been inspired by Chillon; including Rousseau, Shelley, Hugo, Dumas, Turner, Courbet, Töpffer and Cockburn.
Prison furniture
Fire-fighting engine
Constable’s Grand Hall from the Savoy period
For scale, please note that a 6-foot (1.8m) man can stand beneath the mantle of the fireplace.
Windows and Oak pillars are from the 13th century
Ceiling and Fireplace are from the 15th century
Aula Nova (Old Festive Hall) now turned into a museum
Arms and Armour in the Aula Nova
Bedroom
Note the stone radiator heater in the corner and the short bed (only 5-foot).
Bedroom Water reservoir, faucet and basin – they had running water!
Bedroom doorway lintel decoration
Coat-of-Arms Hall; now the “Knight’s Hall”
This was the “robing room” in the Middle Ages but now contains the escutcheons of the Bernese High Bailiffs of Vevey who were resident from 1536 to 1733.
Door lock and handle
Note the snake-head decoration
All mod-cons (modern conveniences)
View to the lake below
In olden times, there were no iron bars across the toilet holes. Perhaps this was a chance for a sneak attack from the lake and up the back passage?
Private Chapel of the Counts and Dukes of Savoy
The iconographic decoration probably from 14th century has strong Italian influence and unequalled north of the Alps. The computer generated enhancements and real restorations give the visitor an idea of the original glory.
Hall of the Scribes
This is where the Duke’s attendants stayed. The walls have red and white chevrons and the window recesses have traces of decorative paintings.
Models of Chillon tracing building development over the centuries
14th century window casement of the Duke’s Bedroom
Viewed from the 3rd Courtyard.
Bastions protecting the mountain aspect
Viewed from the 4th Courtyard
Masonry 'glacis' or ramp of an earlier fortress before the outer fortifications were built
You can walk along the ‘new’ sentries’ gallery along the outer ramparts and battlements.
Burgundian 15th century culverin field gun (copy)
DOING 'TIME' IN CHILLON
Sun-dial
Old Clock Movement from 1543
‘New’ Clock Movement from 1897
This replaced the old movement above. The transmission rod continues vertically upwards and over the viewer's head.
Transmission to clock hand
Internal 'dial' to check hand position when setting the time
Time to leave - just before 2pm
CONCLUSION
This was one of the most interesting medieval castles that we have visited. The restoration and preservation is admirable and Swiss efficiency producing guide-maps in many languages only adds to the experience. Never use expensive taxis in Switzerland; the public transport system is excellent.
Undoubtedly a must-see attraction if you are ‘Lazing’ in the Montreux area.
Dear Reader, I beg your indulgence as I exhibit the following photo-essay entitled "FOUR VIEWS FROM CHILLON". Somehow, the visit left me a little moved to compare and contrast social circumstances.
“Freedom”
This is the view of France from the prison, made more poignant by the free flying bird.
“Misty Water Coloured View”
The bedroom luxury of glazed windows in medieval times made more so by using coloured glass. The same view as in "Freedom" above but reflecting the different social circumstances of the occupants.
“Buena Vista”
A fettered view of Montreux.
“Montreux - The Big Smoke on the Water”
Photos & Text Copyright Melvyn Teillol-Foo, 2005.
