I have a 3/4 ton chevy with a 6 inch lift kit and have been trying different things to help me pull better. I only have a wheel hop when I get to the end of the track around 270 to 286 as my best pull. I have had lots of people tell me to try different things but it really hasn't worked. I tried some stabilizer bars that keep the axle wrap from happening and it shortened my pull by 20 feet and I turned around and took them off and pulled the longest time I have pulled so far. My question is do I keep pulling the way it is or should I block the rear and run the stabilizer bars. I know that everyone tells me to take the lift out but I think my truck is bypassing the laws of physics and pulling well as it is. Please ellaborate. I will try to get a video on a site to show how this truck reacts, it just hunkers down in the rear hard and the front just lifts and torques awesome. Oh and bear in mind that it is a street truck and I usually have to live by the rules of the street minded classes as I cannot pull with the big boys, just a small town farm truck.

Well here's a question for ya. when you are getting that 286' pull where's the other trucks in that class finishing.

I understand it's just a everyday Farm truck and your having fun pulling with it. But if your going to be Competitive your going to need more motor. The reason your getting a so much axle wrap in the front is your on the borderline of having enough horse power to pull.

Let say your 3/4 ton Chevy has a 350 in it making 265 H.P.
once you get it up to the 400 H.P. level you'll be closer to the top in the stock class. Around here most of our stock trucks are putting out close to 400 to 500 H.P.

And for why does it pull further without the stabilizer bars.

Here's my in-site on this.

When your front end axle wraps like it is it acts like a inch worm. but with the stabilizers on it you kinda get just a wheel hop instead. If you leave it axle wrapping you'll end up breaking the front end in due time.

Believe US when we say remove the 6" blocks and get the axle as close to the springs as you can. If you have re-arched springs on the truck leave the rear ones in there and put some regular spring back in the front and try to get it as close to the bump stops as possible.


Dan

The SHAZAAM style hitch cured my bounce issues......still use 4" lift springs up front, and fake solid shock out back.

I'll change it all around for next year but, this year ended with 2 good no bounce runs.

Check these vids......Raton pull from bumper.....Rocky Ford pull from new hitch.

http://www.myspace.com/chevypullin

A......

I don't think I am lacking on power too bad, it is a long rod 60 over 400 with flat tops and good heads, I am usually placing top three but this year has been a bad year and only made 2 pulls not placing even top 5 and need to catch up around an extra 20 feet to be back on top or in the top anyway, The way I mount my stabilizer bars were to counteract the bad action that the rear lift blocks create, and I am thinking that blocking up the rearend solid to the frame will be the next step. But it is only trial and error for me. I am building another truck to drive and I will have more time to spend on my truck that I pull and treat it more like a toy than a worker. Hopefully next year I can have a fresh motor and no lift to deal with.

Were the stabilizer bars on the back or front? If you need 20ft to get to the front of the pack, then you'll find you need more motor and less gear. Pulling is about momentum. To get momentum, you need speed, and to get speed, you need many things not the least of which is HP, gearing and traction. Now there is a LOT that goes into each of these. Chassis setup is extremely important, and lift blocks put the axle further away from the spring, which creates more leverage against the spring causing wrap. If your rules allow it, then run ladder bars and a blocked rear end. When you do this, you'll find out quickly that your gonna need more power because the sled will plant the tires in the ground making them harder to turn.