Does anyone have any information on this rearend?

D100-NX1 DTA Company

Serial Number
0010548
This rearend is a square tube with a chunk style carrier.

HELP!!
Thanks

Well the D100 would be a rockwell rear that would accept the same center section as a F106, except you don't use one bolt hole. They are primarily a 5 bolt pattern and slightly smaller than a F106. I am not guaranteeing this to be but it sounds like what you are looking at. What year,model and brand of truck is it in???

Travis

It is a 1956 Ford F500. Would this be a good rearend for pulling?

My buddy Dean has one of those in Burn'n Desire. He use to break axles on it until he had a set of 106 axles resplined for his center section. since then he's hasn't broke any axles.

But we'll have to see what this year brings with his New Power plant and the added Horsepower he's going to have now.

Dan

Ok, I am looking for some advice. This is going into a new street stock truck. Now, in this class anything goes for the most part because you can block the back and no cube limit only dual plane intake, no dom carb, and a 13 pound vac limit so the class is very hot.
We have run a Ford 10.25 with the motor we have now in another truck and have killed that rearend on several nights with 33 BFG all terrains not bouncing it". A couple of people said to put the GM 14 bolt in or the Eaton chunk style.
We went to the junk yard looking for a Dana 80, hard to find a single wheel and I really want to tuck the rear end in close without having to spend huge money on cutting the thing down. Then we ran across this rearend (D-100).

We are going to go up to some big tires on this truck because there is not a rule against height just have to be street tires. Oh ya we are limited to a One ton running gear of course it can be modified. From the info I can find it looks like the D-100 came out in a few old model 1 ton fords. Any advice and info would be great.

The Dodge Dana 80 is a strong rear, or the chevy 14 bolt.

Ok lets look at this.
If you found a Dana 80 with the right tire width swoop it up. When you take the wheels off it has really big brake drums. But it can be made to fit under a stock truck.

First remove the drums and backing plates. Now take a 4" hand grinder and remove the weld that hold the mounting plate to the axle housing. Get a backing plate and brake drums off a Stock Dana 60 Rear they'll fit no problem. Add the backing plate to the mounting plate you removed the weld from, and install the drums to the hubs and that will give you the new mounting point for the backing plate. Tack weld into place. NOW you have to move the spring perches for the truck you have, measure to see where the Spring perches are on your truck now and grind the old ones off and move them to this measurement. Better yet throw those stamped steel ones out and get a set of casted steel ones off a Corp. Rearend. and tip the pinon up a few degrees to match the drive shaft if it's a solid rear, and a few degrees down if it's a active rear. When it's all set weld everything up with a good 1/4" on the backing plate and 3/8" weld on the spring perches.

Now the only thing that will set this rearend off as not being stock is that the wheels will be sucked under the body about a 1/2" from stock.





Dan

Thanks,
The Dana 80 that I found is 10 inches wider at the ends of the axle than a single wheel Ford 10.25 so it is real wide.
It has the axles in it but no carrier or gears. It has disc brakes on it. The guy wants $200 for it.
Now, the D 100 is real close to the right length but all that is all that I know about it.
I have another 10.25, a bunch of 60s, and a couple of Eaton rearends and parts the 1 ton pumpkin. I am just afraid that these will give up on me when I need them.
We are looking to run 40s on the truck maybe even 44's
A few years ago a guy did this in the next class up and won every pull that had a floating finish, if they had a pull off he lost because he broke the EAton one ton rear, (5.13 Gear)
After a few runs he went back to 4.10 ran split third with 33s and ran for second and third palce the rest of the year.
SO I think the big tires will work its just keeping things together that will matter. So guys what should I do? Tell me what one ton rearend I can run and stay together.

The main thing your going to be looking for is the gear ratio of the given rearend you end up getting. With the Eaton you might be 6.20 can you get the same ratio for the front end your using.
I'd just throw a Corp 14 bolt in there. they have nice big axles and the gear selection is good.




Dan

I know that the D-100 is 6.20. The front that I have right now is a new model Dana 60. I have not checked on what gears I can get for it right now.
Thanks for thinking about the problem I have.
Still know one has said if the D-100 is worth the metal that its made of. I just hate to go with a corporate part my truck may reject it. Ha ha

Oh ya this new truck is going to be the 97-up ford half ton body style.
Changing over from the 79. Still going to use coils in the front offset under the cab hinged back in front of the rear springs. Love the coils.

Well I know if you show up with a square tube axle in it I'm sure they'll squawk it's not a one ton axle .




Dan

Ok you are probably right on that one. Although, a guy in the 5500 pound class runs one that came out of a special heavy one ton chevy truck, or so they say and know one has ever questioned it.
Any way what is the skinny on the D-100 rear is it any good?
You would really think know one would care what rear you run because the weight is in the wrong place anyway.

I guess an 80 would be the logical thing to do but, if I can swing it and the D-100 is worth its salt it is very cheap in comparison to everything else as long as I lincoln lock it.

Also I cant decide on stadard or auto, I have everything for both setups but, the auto is sweet to drive but I will need to use a 208 case with it. So the motor want be in its best location. With the 4 speed I could push it out a little more and run a Divorced 203 or 208. Getting ready to start buring some metal so Ideas are cool. Also, its going to be a short bed truck. Ideas and suggestions guys, I want every run against you any way.

I'd use the 14-bolt, because it's time tested to be super strong....they are everywhere....they are cheap....you can get a lot of ratios for them....mini-spools are only 160 bucks, and they install in about an hour with a kindergarten education.

There is NO other option....I have four of them if you can't find one.

A.........
http://www.myspace.com/chevypullin

If your worried about width with the dana 80 off set your rear wheels. I ran a Dana 80 for four years now and broke one axle.And that was the original one.

Ok here is the real answer you are looking for. Yes the D100 is a good rearend! No it was never available in a 1 ton! The next step down, the C100 was but you will not get to the 6.20 ratio with a C100. But that probably does not matter as you probably have a high pinion 60 or 50 and you can't get a 6.20 for anything with a high pinion. In my opinion, if you are looking for a step up from a 10.25 or 70 type rear get a eaton corporation HD 1100. They are lighter than a dana 80 and just as strong, on a side note there is very little difference in weight between a dana 80 and a rockwell f106. I personally would not waste my time with a 14 bolt or dana 70. If you can get the D100 for cheap grab it and stash it for the future. And if you are looking for a eaton, I might know where there are a couple of them.
And if you by chance find a C100 grab it also, guys that run pro mod trucks use them to make fronts. If you are looking for them look under older panel vans, that is where you find the stuff to get around the 1 ton drivetrain rule.

Travis

P.S. The D100 is good up to about 950 hp with cepeks, and the eaton is good to slightly above 800 with small cepeks. And A F106 is what the promod trucks run.

Thanks Travis, and everyone else. That is why I love this board. You guys know your stuff. When we get everything finished up I wil send you guys some pics.

Curious if you guys know were I can see a picture of the HD-1100 or C-100. Also, if any of you have one of these let me know. The D-100 is 500 bucks is that a good buy

I would not pay over $300 for it myself. AP may have a couple of pics handy of the eaton. The C100 looks just like the D100 but slightly smaller. Most rockwell rears look alike, but a few had round tubes.

Travis

Is the eaton that you are refering to the old Pumpkin type rear that was under the 60s model chevy trucks? The one that has ratios 4.10, 4.56, and 5.13. I have a few of these already and run one in a 5500 pound truck it is supposed to be as strong as a 14 bolt but alot lighter.

If it is the same one that is the rear the guy that ran the 44s tried to run with them and he kept on killing the ring gears.
If its not the one that you are talking about. Do you have one of the Eaton HD 1100 or the C100

The rear you are talking about is the hd720 it is 3/4 and 1 ton. The rear I am talking about is bigger and 1 ton was the smallest application. Yes I have 2 eatons but no C100 rockwell. But I am in Indiana so you would probably want to locate one locally. What gear are you planning on running and what size tires??

Travis

After rereading your earlier post it sounds like you are from Ohio. No offense, but they got some stupid rules. Unlimited cubes with limited drivetrain means you spend lots of money fixing stuff or you spend a zillion dollars to make the small stuff hold up to the power. It should be the other way around if you really wanted a class with the pullers in mind!! Judging by the dual plane rule there is some big motors but they don't turn alot of rpm, so fast gears are important.

Travis

No man I pull in TN and ya the rules are kind of funky but you pull were you can. If the price is right a drive to Indiana isn't that bad. We drove to Hope to see Mr. Price, alot cheaper than shipping heads and also a cool experience.
We plan on trying to run 40-44 inch tires. I know it sounds crazy but they will hook if the drive train can hold it so low gears are very important. If you want to give me a call and not talk price on here its 615 542 5470
Richard

Just curious. Are the axles on the big Eaton a bolt on axle or do they fit into a splinned hub with a bolt on cover? If so I have a chunk for it but we gave a whole unit away a few years back to a guy that went with a rockwell 106. I am just trying to place this rearend.

I never believed a Rockwell came in a Ford 1 ton until a couple years ago. I saw an old 60 or 61 Ford 1 ton F300(maybe F350) that was all original and had been sitting for years. Both front and rear had 5 or 6(don't remember which) bolt hole wheels and had a C100(possibly a D but I'm sure it was a C) in it. I went back a few months later and someone had already got to it. But I do know it had a Rockwell tag and read ?100.

Bret

The eaton has a spline or gear to the hub with a bolt on cover. Get ahold of Reddog he is alot closer to you and he could probably come up with something pretty easy. If not get back with me and we will go from there.

Bret,

That would have been a C100 and an oddity, I personally have not seen one in a Ford that new. The cool thing about them is the hub is small enough to get a standard 8 bolt rim over them, so a little time on the drill press and you have an eight lug patttern rockwell. The most common place I have seen them was early International panel vans.

Travis

Thanks for all of the help I appreciate it.

Here's a picture of the Eaton H110 TA referred to.



Alan

Nice pic Alan!!!

Travis

This is just a bigger version of the H072 right?

A.......
http://www.myspace.com/chevypullin

Yes, if I understand the nomenclature correctly, the H072 is a 7200lb axle and the H110 is an 11,000lb axle.

Alan

What about the Rockwell C103 a guy emailed me and had one for sale
5.29 gear I can match it to a high pinion 60 pretty easy and it is now 8 lug
A little pricey $1000
Is it a ton rear?

Are these the same axle as the 48-54 GMC militarys? Can a guy still get new gears for these yet and in what ratio? I have the militays now with the 6.67 ratio and I am looking for a spare set. One other question, I am thinking of going to a F106 in the rear and was looking at a 6.80 or 6.83 ratio. Is there a differance in strength between the two sets? I know the 6.80 is 5 tooth pinion to 34 ring and the 6.83 is 6 to 41 but which is stronger or would last longer? Thanks Steve

Last Minute, if it was me, I'd pass on the 103 for that price. You should be able to find and axle for a LOT less than that.. I got 2 H110's and an H115 for half of that, not including a couple tanks of diesel fuel to drive to Madison WI to get them and 10 hours of my time.

Alan

Swany,
Yes these are the same as the military rears. As for matching the 6.67, I don't know if it is still available. A good place to start looking would be Boyce Military. They have a website with all kinds of stuff. As for the 106 there is no difference in strength between the two ratios. I would think that would be a little to large a split between the front and rear, since the closest front ratio is a 6.50. I have heard of guys using such a split and mostly without alot of success.

Last minute,
That guy is off his rocker for a $1000 I will hunt one down for you and maybe meet you half way. If you are running a 35" DOT tire class with under 850 horse you will never need more rear than an eaton. Of course I say that and you may light it up the first time and sh_t can the whole deal, but I don't think you will.

Travis

Ok I will keep that in mind over the next few weeks if i dont find what i am looking for. I may have found an eaton at the bone yard i have to go this weekend and look also a guy called and said that he had a rockwell either C100 or D100 he had to go pull for like 150 and its not to far away. The only problem is I have a high pinion 60 and a ton of ford t cases. How high is the divorced dodge 205 t case and does any one have one I guess I will have to sell the high pinion and go passenger side to put the heavy stuff in. Any good deals on a chevy 60 I have a super duty high pinion 60 I might get rid of if anyone might be interested start thinking about it. I am also still looking for a set of 40 -44 inch tires if any one knows of a set pretty cheap they cant be cut.
615 542 5470

Like TA says if your running 35" tires and under 850 hp you really only need a 14 bolt. dough heads...

Guys I do understand that the 14 bolt holds up pretty nice with 35s and down although we have killed 4 10.25 ford rearends running 33s with the motor that we have in the truck. Our plan is to run 40-44 inch tires depending on the gear ratios I can come up with in the rear. 14 bolts are great I just dont think it will hold up to the abuse that size tire will put on it.

I'm still trying to figure out how you've killed 4 10.25 axles. I've ran the same 10.25 for three seasons now, and the only failure was a ujoint failure at the end of this season.

Alan

Ok, now I have some questions about your plan. How much power do you think you will make with your motor?? Is there anybody else running that big of a tire?? Do you have any video of your competition?? And do you know what kind of ratio you are planning to run to be able to turn that large of a tire?? And have you considered the weight factor of 4 of those big arse tires?? And what is the weight of the class you are running?? What about that sidewall flex thing??

Travis

Ok power. Probably 650-725 just a modest guess no dyno numbers. No one else is running that size tire. The biggest in the class is a 35-12.5. Almost everyone is running 33. Right now we are running a 26 final with the 33 tire. To be able to run the 44 inch tire I am thinking a 35-37 final. Of course to run the High pinion I will have to stay with an rearend ratio is the high fives. I can play with the trans and the transfer case some. Yes i do know they are heavy but, I think the traaction will be worth it.The class weight is 6000 pounds. The sidewall flex shouldnt be that big of an issue.
I have seen this done on another truck a few years back. That guy had a lot of success as long as he didnt kill the ring gear. He did that almost every other run so he went back to faster gears and smaller tires. He won everytime he didnt break with the big tires and was 2-6 place truck with the 33s. It will also look very cool.

If you guys have any suggestions or ideas love to hear them. This is a new truck so I am trying some new stuff.

The truck that was running them before had an Eaton HD700.

Hey AP, you wanna step up to the plate and swing your little handy-dandy gear calculator thingy for this subject. A 40" tire with a 7000 peak rpm.

Travis

YEEAAH OK !!!!! LOL I dont understand what hes trying to do if he runs a 26 final why would you want to go to a 36 final?

Only for you guy's.. LOL

37 final, 40 inch tires 7000rpm gives you a 22.513 mph wheel speed
35 final, 40 inch tires 7000rpm gives you a 23.8 mph wheel speed
33 final, 40 inch tires 7000rpm gives you a 25.242 mph wheel speed
31 final, 40 inch tires 7000rpm gives you a 26.871 mph wheel speed


Give me the tranny and xfer case you want to use and the wheel speed you want to turn and I can tell you what axle ratio you need. However, I'm thinking if your only in the 700hp range, you might have trouble trying to turn 40 inch tires in the 26-30mph range. JMHO.

alan

A couple years ago, I went up against a guy that had 40 or 42 inch tires and he was bouncing so bad he had to stop at the 125ft range, the next night, he came back with 33's and laid down a very nice run (still waxed him though LOL) Come to think of it, Every time I've watched a guy trying to pull with big tires, they've had bouncing issues. Maybe that's why most serious pullers I've seen don't run that big of a tire.

Alan

Well it could be made to work. The more traction you have the closer you are gonna have to be to actual track speed you want. You are gonna have to throw out the theoretical wheel speed you want to achieve. I do have one thing to say, you better make some serious torque if you are planning to do this well. I am suggesting cubes in the high 5's or low 6's or a minimum of a 557 kit.

Travis

Ive seen 22 to 24 mile an hr on good tight track engine turnin 8800+++ with 36x14.50's very well doubt youll see that with 33s let a lone 44s my opinion.24mile hr is pretty fast you guys talkin 30 to 36 maby if the box dont move on the sled.

We are talking track speed versus wheel speed. Just because you got 30 mph wheel speed does not mean you get 30 mph track speed. I would like to see that 24 mph pass myself. The fastest pass(that I had true info on) was almost 22mph.

Travis

SO..........Would you all agree that if you have the power....you should always run a MORE aggressive tire????? I know the track is a big factor, but say an average track that is descently sticky......?

A.........
http://www.myspace.com/chevypullin

I think a good 33 inch tire will easily be able to hook up the 700 horse. I sure don't consider myslf to know all the ins and outs of pulling but, a 44" tire??? Good Luck!

I don't see how you all keep ring and pinions in the 14 bolt rears either, I consider them good and reliable to about 7-750 horse, beyond that they have a pretty limited ring and pinon life span. Much past 800 horse they get really short lived. From there the Dana 80s work well I've only lost two or three ring gears on them in the last couple years.

Later, Bret

That's a good question Adrian. I've noticed that the diesel guys are struggling with this as well. I've seen them trying single wheel rears with both MT's and AT's and dual rears with MT and AT's. I think their STILL trying to find the best setup, and they've got gobs more torque than we do. From what I've seen in the gassers, more traction means less RPM and sometimes more breakage. I don't profess to know much, but I do know that around here AT type tires dominate the gassers and MT's seem to dominate the diesels.

Alan

AP,

Look back through stuff and noticewhat kinda tire that new guy was running on that funny diesel. And for the most part the way most of these guys setup diesels there torque is not a curve, it is more like a light switch.

Adrian,

If you are hooking up with 33's then stay with them. If you are blowing them away get bigger tires. More aggresive usually means you you will move more dirt, you don't wanna move dirt you wanna move the sled. And there are alot of options for some large all terrain type tires. The smaller your tire the easier it is on your drivetrain.

So I personally would not run that large of a tire, but I am not in Tennessee watching what is going on in his class.

Last minute,

To do this right you are not gonna be able to lift the truck. You are gonna have to cut the fenderwells. With that large of a tire you are all ready putting the hitch to low in relation to the frame. But that is another conversation.

Travis

I am glad to see all of the discussion on the subject.
When I get some pictures I will post them on here to show you guys how its going. As the season starts I will let you know how it works out. The tires may end up being 17-40s instead of 44s. So they will probably measure 37-38 inches tall.
Just curious though if height isnt going to make a difference why doesnt everyone run wide short tires and save on the weight? In my opinion (everyone knows how opinions are) if you can get rid of the bounce and you can get a rear end to hold up the bigger tires are going to get you a faster track speed.

Sometimes I guess you have to step out of the box and raise the bar on the competion. Either this will or I will have a last place truck on time will tell.

Travis,
I had already planned on not lifting the truck and cutting the fenders.
Just curious what are you talking about with the hitch?
On an old truck that I run in another class I have a pretty good forward rake on it and its is a little too high in the back In my opinion so the hitch is at a pretty good downward angle away from the frame. it is mounted to the frame at the very rear of the frame with teh adjuster mounted to the rear end and this truck hooks well. maybe I am missing the boat on the hitch talk to me about what I should look to try to do.

Old truck
77 High boy frame
superduty Dana 60 front Eaton 3/4 ton truc rear 4.56 gears both
35 bfg AT on 15X10 wheels comp out of track of each other
435 trans (2nd gear 3.36) 205 case
only turn 6000-6500 with a 470 with Dove heads non roller
track speed of 18-21 miles and hour
5500 pound class

Building a new motor now.

Beating trucks turning 4.10 with 33s 8500 9000 RPM motors
Kind of cool when they think you are pulling their chain about our set-up.

Well I am not gonna get into a pissin match about that subject. Is your new truck gonna be a later model frame??

Travis

yes it is. i have a 77 frame sitting there we started putting the new model body on it and the body is 139 wheelbase didnt even think about it
So got a another truck with a zillion miles but a good body Short bed 2 wheel drive (Whole truck cheaper than a paint job) gonna give a short bed a try.
I will stretch it to probably 124 but that is it. I dunno it all may be a waste of time. Just getting bored with the way all of the trucks look. kind of cookie cutter.

If your already beating those high rpm higher geared trucks why are you changing everything????

Its is a different class. WE pull two trucks. I am building a new truck for the stock truck class. I might learn something from building this new truck that I can use in the other class. YOu guys know how its is. Anything you would like to see tried.

Doing different things is how to figure out what works and what doesn't....The problem with that is that somebody else probably did it already, and found the "cookie cutter" way to be the best. In my association there are rules that make it cookie cutter, ie....tire size, wheelbase, hitch height, etc...

A.......
http://www.myspace.com/chevypullin

TA, I was talking about ground speed.

TA
I was wandering what gear ratio you have in your Eaton HD1100 and what it what take to get it from you. My only luck has been the rockwell d-100 and it is 6.20 which with a high pinion I cant use. I have to have something close to a 5.30.
Guys in all of my junk yard looking I have found 3 dana70 HDs and a New model dodge 60 Front if any one is looking for this stuff let me know.

Is this a pass side diff? What are the axle splines? What size yoke is on it? What ratio? Open?


A......
http://www.myspace.com/chevypullin

It is a new modle coil sprung 60. Its probably open. 3.54 gears. I found it at a yard here around home. I think he said a $1000 would get it I dont know if it is a good or bad price, I have never bought one of these fronts I have only bought the new super duty 60s around here and they go 800-1200 depending on gears and what all is there.

Found this at the bone yard guys. Any ideas. Square tube 10 bolts holding carrier in.
On pumpkin
69013-R3
TDI 2 78
Couldnt find a tag on it just those casting numbers.
It had real big outers but I thought the center might be worth picking up.