What type of distributor is prefered, stock, MSD Type, vacuum advance, mech advance, dual points?

I run a MSD Billet that's welded and set at 35 Dreg. and dont move .



Dan

I also run an MSD pro billet, but mines not welded

If your interested, I've got a Ford Duraspark that has been recurved I'd sell for $50 plus s/h. I ran the duraspark the first year as I was only seeing >6500rpm. Over 6800-7000 is where I've been told to go to a MSD.

Alan

MSD for us too.

Alan, that sounds good to me. Email me your info, I will send a MO to you. The machine shop that did my motor told me to make sure I ran a bronze gear on the distributor. This Duraspark, I can get a replaceable gear for it through Jeg's or Summit? Email me at tim@wes-corp.com

Thanks
Tim

MSD. If you want to lock the MSD there is no need to weld it. All you have to do is remove the gear, pull the shaft unbolt the advance plate turn it 180* and rebolt it back together. This is how you are suppose to lock the MSD distributor. I would suggest always running the distributor locked in a pulling application.

Bret

PFC Engines
DTS Dyno and SuperFlow SF600 equipped!

"Pullin For Christ"

Brett,

Doesn't this make the motor hard to start?

Alan

Hey Tim, I sent you an email.

Alan

it does. You can get a little retard box that will let it start, or you do like some, and swith your ign seperate, get it cranking, then hit the ign. Or thats how we did it back in the day.

Now days i like a crank trigger with the big msd distributor, but it has no guts, just a rotor and cap.

Alan

There also ignition boxes ( MSD Digital6 is one) with built in start retards. They will normally drop 20* in the crank mode and as soon as it hits 800 rpms it goes back to the full setting.

Lee

Our timing is locked at 32 all the time. Like stated previously, just get the motor rolling and flip the ignition switch for the msd. We have two batteries running the starter, still 12v but plenty of amps so it spins over pretty quickly.