I see your hood hanging on the wall there looks as though your thinking about putting a Cowl Hood scoop on it ..
If So I picked one up last month that I decided not to put on. make you a good deal on it .




Dan

Thanks Dan, we have a carbon fiber one to put on it. But with lowering the motor 2" I dont think were going to need it.
Bob

Looks good I like the shackle swap in the front.

Looks good! That color looks alot like my truck. What color is it? I would like some info on your headers such as if you used a kit. I plan on making a bigger set for mine and doing away with the steering shaft. What is the purpose of reversing the front shackles?

Dennis

It is a 2-1/4 hooker big block chevy weldup kit. The color in the pic is off, It's a darker blue. The pic in the one chance post shows the real color. Good eye on the shackle swap.

Dan,

email me the specs on that scoop please.

Alan

Bob, I'm interested in those headers. Stahls kit for the Ford say they will fit a Chevy as well. I can see you added some stubs to flatten them out and meet the heads. Are you running front shocks ?? and are there going to be clearance issuses there ??

The hooker kit comes with the bend at the end, I cut it off on each side of the bend. And then I cut and fit the bend to the Ford flange so it had the right drop I wanted. Then I had the exhaust shop swell the other end so the header tubes would slide in side. Then I cut them down to get the clearance between the frame and the tire. I a'm moving my shocks out in front of the axle. This was the easyest header kit iv'e ever built
Bob

Now I see the bracket on the bottom and the bolts for the top of the shocks in the frame. Looks like you are doing a fine job.
One more question. Is the motor in the stock location ?
It probably is. I'm just not used to seeing the front end not on the truck.

what bellhousing trans combo is that?

And that transfer case looks terribly like a married case converted?

thanx

Noticed your custom made cross member for the tcase. Can it come out? I noticed you have it bolted in, but it looks like a mutha to remove if needed. Also, what size tube did u use?

Alan

Draggin: I moved the motor forward a little and down 2"
Ken: the transfer is a devorced 205 with a profab kit.The can is an 8-1/8 lakewood and the trans is a SM465 with profab kit
Alan: Four bolts and the transfer drops right out the bottom. Six bolts and the cross member drops right out. I used 1-5/8 .120 wall DOM tubing And 1/2 x 3 plate to bolt to the transfer.
It's all taken back apart and ready to sandblast and paint. Thanks Bob

Bob,

If you put a line across the top of the frame rails, would the transmission output yoke centerline be above, even or below the line? Also, since you have a decent angle in the intermediate shaft, how are you going to do the safety shroud? Or are you required to have one? (our intermediate shaft has to be completely enclosed)

Alan

The output on the trans is center with the top of the frame. I should have put a little more angle in the motor, But hind sight is 20/20. No rules here on complete cover.

Man that's looking NICE, almost seems a shame to cover up that purdy frame. LOL

I'm jealous of the shop in the background, Now that just don't seem right. WAY too much space there. LOL


Alan

Will the welds hold up to the stress of the dual shocks? Seems like the leverage effect would cause an awefull lot of stress there.

Alan

I only get 1 bay the rest have to make money. I think they will hold had a similar setup on the blower car. It's all trial and error. 4 weeks left till test/tune