I was thinking of using a Pheonix connector......

It would tie in wiring, but separate easily.

Thanks,

A........

I just used a round 4 wire trailer connector. Ground the lock tab off (5 seconds to do) then used a coat hanger to form the loop. You can see it in this picture.



Alan

I also used the 4 peg trailer connector, but our club requires both the ignition and fuel pump to be killed when pulled. so I have the fuel pump on one set of pegs and the ignition on the other. 12 gauge solid copper wire inserted into the clamps and twisted and a ring to top it all off .






Dan

Thanks guys,

I will pick up some parts today....I also have to switch the electric fuel pump.


A.......

Mine kills the Ignition and the fuel pump. 2 prongs for the pump and 2 for the ignition. Also, I am breaking the ground side of both and not the +12 side. That way I only have to run 1 wire for each back to the connector. Because of the length of the run, I chose to use 10 ga. wire. Overkill I know, but better safe than sorry (plus I had a spool of it laying around).

Mine is also the similar but when its pulled the truck is completely dead, no ign,fuel,fan or water pump

We tried the trailer plug at first but had an issue on a couple of hooks with it coming just loose enough that it will kill things.

Round two (and still currently what we are running) is a regular 110 outlet and plug. It works.

A buddy of ours uses the small connector like are on forklift batteries. Sorry I forgot what they are called. It works good. That will be what we use if we ever change.

For wire we used an old heavy duty extension cord that had a bad end.

Everyone here puts a ty wrap (zip tie) on them to hold them tight. I questioned this once and was told that if they pulled the cable it would either break the ty wrap or pull the wires out.

Alan

I went to radio shack and bought a double pull double throw relay so all I needed was 2 wires running to the back of the truck and the ignition and fuel pump hook into the relay

we tried many of the configurations listed

The best we found was having two relays at the front of the truck, one for fuel and one for ignition so that the wiring runs carrying power were as short as possible.

We then run from the relays back to the rear of the truck to a marine type kill switch.

This way if anything happened to the kill switch wiring it didnt affect any of the other wiring and was an easy repair on the track, whereas not so easy if you were running all of the various wires to the back of the truck.

we run a the flat warn winch plug running it as a ground and just loop a cable on the other side for the pull cable i think it was all 4 gauge it can all be soldered together its strong on won't fall out going down the track. it shuts off our ignition and fuel pump.