Hey guys. I have a street stock type of truck that I just got started on last year. It has a big block ford with around 500 to 550 horse. A buddy of mine that pulls had a friend of his make me a clutch that consisted of a heavily sprung pressure plate and a single solid disk out of a multiple disk floater clutch. It was supposed to be a able to take some slippage and still be able to hook my motor. It did, for one pull. The second time I pulled it I came out of the hole around 3500. I released the clutch completely, but it was not locking up, so I played with it at around 3500-4000 for about 100 feet before it finally locked up. By then of course it was too late. The pressure plate has a ton of pedal effort, so I'm assuming it's strong. The flywheel is a an frpp billet unit. Do I need to heat the thing up by just getting after it when the clutch is out, despite the slippage? Or do I need to look into something different? I should mention that I blew the rear end up on that second pull, and it was late in the year, so that was it for the season.

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-Jared

I want to make one like that. Find out where he got that iron disk.

Ram clutches are making a sintered Iron disk now for fords

HELLO IM TRAVIS AND I BUILD ALOT OF DIFF CLUTCH SETUPS AND PULL TRUCK ALSO AS DIGGER AND ALOT OF THE GUYS ON HERE KNOW SO IF YOU WOULD LIKE GET A HOLD OF ME AND MAYBE I CAN HELP IM NOT LIKE THE OTHER GUYS THAT TRY TO SELL THINGS BY LOOKING AT A COMPUTER SCREEN AND READ OFF WHAT IT SAYS THINGS CAN AND SHOULD DO I KNOW CAUSE I RUN THE ITEMS MYSELF AND BUILD THEM UP THE SETUP YOU HAVE BOUT LOOKS LIKE A HAYS PAINTED BLUE WITH NO COUNTER WEIGHT FINGERS

Hey Travis, I guess I don't understand why it didn't want to hook up on the second pull. On the street, when you first start driving the truck after the oil gets up to temp, I can stab the throttle when in high gear and the clutch will slip a couple hundred rpm. After it does it once though, it will not do it again until the next time I drive it. It seems like it has to be hot to work. I know that ram and some of the other corporate clutch manufacturers sell a similar setup. I wonder if I'm not using it right? Should I be coming out of the hole at a higher rpm? Like I said, the pressure plate has a lot of pedal effort, so I am assuming that it is strong. The whole thought behind me getting this clutch was that it was supposed to handle slippage without glazing over like a standard fiber clutch disk would. Well, I've only pulled it twice, and that is what it acts like. Any Ideas? I'm thinking about going to a dual disk setup to get the pedal effort down and to be able to handle more power in the future. Would I have to space my trans back further to accommodate the dual disk clutch setup? How much deeper is the bell housing?

Thanks,

Jared

Jared, I've got one of Travis' clutches in the POS. It fits in the standard Lakewood bell with no problems. The thing that concerns me with that setup you have is with that one disc from a dual disc clutch you dont have much spline contacting the input shaft. My advice is to give Travis a call. His sets come completely balanced and matchmarked making it almost impossible to screw up the installation. He can set you up with what you need and his service and prices can't be beat !!!