Hey guys, I have a couple quick questions for you:

#1: Is the rear yoke on a T-18 and a NP 435 the same?? I have a T-18 that is out, I was thinking about taking the rear yoke off so I had a spare to take with me. Granted it would be a smaller joint size, but I'm just wanting something for a spare to a go along with my smaller jointed spare driveshaft.

#2: In general, how many passes do you put on your clutches before you take stuff apart and remove a shim or two?? I wouldn't say that my clutch receives alot of abuse, but on certain tracks, it does get slipped pretty hard. On my last hook, it pulled the engine down at the end so I'm assuming the clutch is still hooking good?? I have 16 passes on it right now since I last had it apart....out of those 4 were on a really biting/hard pulling track.

Thanks for you input.

Well... we didnt pull shims on my first clutch until sum 60-70 passes (2 1/2 years). However i was not running alot of hp.

OK if you get out your instructions that you got with your clutch. "read them"

I know the first year I had my McCloud slipper I didn't have to pull no shims until the season was over and I mic'ed the disks to see how much I used off them that year. Took out 2 shims for the second season and got 3 seasons out of the first set of disks I got with the clutch. The second set of disks I got where softer material and seem to wear faster seeing I only got 2 seasons out of them. Then after that I switched to a C6 and haven't looked back.



Dan

well, this is my story, and i'm sticking to it.

i run a mcleod twin iron pedal clutch..

installed for the 2006 season new...... after being at cloverdale (2009), i noticed i was running out of pedal...... no slip, just that the pedal was almost completely released before it was locked...... had to take 1 shim out, and now my pedal engagement is right in the middle of the stroke.

I was told by a very wise man....... "wanna know the easy way to shim your clutch"..... of course i said yes... i like easy.

here's what you do

step 1, remove clutch leaving shims in place
step 2, lay flywheel flat on the bench
step 3, lay first disc in place followed by the floater...... of course check for unusual warpage.
step 4, clamp floater and disc to flywheel so they are all tight
step 5, remove shims so that the top of the compressed shims are even with the top of the compressed floater....
top being backside of the assembly.... top as it sits on the bench
step 6, reinstall clutch and you're done.

if this is your first shim adjustment, you can measure overall disc thickness, but again if it's the first shim adjustment, that would only be academic.

hope this helps
sean

ps.......this took much less time then the mcleod instructions on how to reshim your clutch, in fact, i had so much time left over, i drain, flushed and refilled my blinker fluid, and rebushed the johnson rod.

SEAN THAT WAY ALL SOUNDED GOOD BUT IS NOT THE RIGHT WAY TO DO IT WHAT HAPPENS IS WHEN U SHIM IT THAT WAY U DONT APLY THE SAME AMOUNT OF PRESS EACH TIME
HERE IS Y
IF U SHIM TO THE TOP OF FLOATER LIKE U SAY AND THE TOP DISC U PUT ON TOP OF THE FLOATER NEW MEASURES .330 THICK THEN U WOULD THEN HAVE .330 PRESS ON THE DISC TO PRESSURE PLAE MEANING WHEN U TIGHTEN THE PRESSURE PLATE UP U SINK THE WHOLE TOP DISC INSIDE THE PRESSURE PLATE THAT BE .330 PRESS

OK NOW AFTER U HAVE SOME WEAR AND THINK U NEED TO REMOVE SHIMS U SAY TAKE THE CLUTCH OUT AND JUST SHIM IT TO THE TOP OF THE FLOATER AGAIN

OK SO AFTER U DO THAT SAY THE TOP DISC IF U MEASURE IT IS NOW .285 THICK SO NOW U ONLY HAVE A .285 PRESS ON THE CLUTCH SO NO WHERE NEAR THE SAME CLAMPING PRESSURE THAT IT HAS NEW

TO GET THE SAME AMOUNT OF PRESS AS NEW U WOULD HAVE TO BE .045 BELOW THE FLOATER NOT EVEN WITH THE FLOATER thats .330 new - .285 used = .045

i had since been corrected since my post and had yet time to alter it........ i had overlooked the wear on the outer disc....... and he told me to measure the disc thickness of the outer disc and remove equal thickness of shims of the difference of new to current disc thickness.

since this was my first reshim, and i only had to remove 1 shim, i was told it would probably be fine, which indeed it did hold as it has always......... even with that added step, it is still easier then the mcleod instructions IMHO.

thanks for that, hope i didn't steer anyone wrong.

sean